WeezyBlue

Great info, thanks! I've only ever run Mopar filters on my other Jeeps so knowing there's one that fits the 87 is perfect.

1987 2.5 When I look it up I get a Wix 51626 filter, but then I've read that filter is for the vertical application and mine is horizontal, which they supposedly didn't switch to until 91. However my block code is 8933004200, which lists as an 87-90. Lot of conflicting info, can anyone clarify?

Are you specifically referring to Comanches and the 2.5? Renix? What's your metric? There are a lot of JTEC and NGC success stories. My TJ is a daily driver, 5.13s, 37s, 6 speed. As I said before, not a huge fan of the Split Second but it operates fine. I don't like that I have to tune two different computers so I'm swapping in larger injectors and a 2bar map and remapping the factory PCM, ditching the Split Second entirely. But the engine loves it, drives great, never overheats. And there are a lot of people cruising around with the Banks turbo setup, a little less homebrew. I don't see why an older 2.5 or 4.0 wouldn't be happy to be boosted, the approach will just have to be appropriate. Address fuel. Address timing. I retard 1 degree per psi and aim for a slightly too rich, and safe, afr.

Around 8psi is when you can start seeing head studs stretch, hence the blown head gaskets. 7psi on a 4.0 will make it feel like a decently powered V8. A turbo 2.5 sounds like a lot of fun. I think if you're going the homebrew route, a turbo is easier than a supercharger. I've had problems with my split second on my 05 TJ but that's an NGC PCM and so far removed from the old 2.5 that it's not even relatable in terms of issues to overcome.

Good on you for keeping an old truck on the road.

You must be a blast at parties

Because they're literally just like adult legos? You can convert to 4x4 for cheap if you're inclined. And most of them have rusty floors. You can fix that for cheap as well. I'd rather keep one on the road than throw it away

I had the bed of my Raptor done with Line-X and it was fantastic. I plan to do the same with my Comanche after I paint it. Wasn't cheap though

1987 Jeep Comanche SWB. Package unknown, but most likely base. 2.5 AX5. Started life as a 2wd model. In current state is 4wd, retaining the original 2.5 engine and rear 4.10 D35. Indicating 168,000 miles. Conversion parts include the front axle, a HPD30 geared 3.54, a 4wd AX5, and NP207 from 1JTHL6547GT160119 3" Lift, Napiers, 33x10.5 tires. Going through budget restoration. Originally black, being repainted in satin black. Interior looks to be a combo of tan and honey with a bench seat and a bunch of missing pieces. Converting to black interior, with tartan and wood accents. Largely rust free except for the missing driver side floor. Fixing that. Planning to regear 4.88s. I'm the current owner, located in MN just south of the Twin Cities.

1986 Jeep Comanche LWB 4wd Package unknown. Grey/silver two tone. 2.5, AX5, NP207 HPD30 front D35 rear both geared 3.54 from the factory (!) Build date unknown. Almost completely stripped. Salvage title. Has a 2wd axle under it now. No engine, no trans, no tcase. Bed has been chopped. Missing all front end bodywork. Interior gutted. Almost entirely rust free. Vehicle has been passed through several sets of hands without the title being updated, currently registered in Iowa. I still have the title in my hand, chassis is sitting beside the garage. Holding onto it for a friend in Ohio that wants to rebuild it using an XJ. located in MN.

Weight is on the axles in the photos. Lots of room. Pinch weld can still be hammered back, and flare could also be moved back more if need be. Close ups are at full lock. 31x10.5r15 Dick Cepek Extreme Country on 15x8 AR62 American Racing Outlaw II wheels, 3.75" bs. Combo weighs in at 65.9 lbs

Everything showed up today, tires and wheels getting mounted tomorrow. Going to start on the flares tonight. I'll report back

My very first TJ had heavy 33s on steel wheels and a D35. I used to beat on it pretty good and it held. That's not to say I wasn't always expecting it to break, I was. It just never did. On my current TJ I've got dana 44s that are stock aside from 5.13s and I run a 37" beadlocked combo that weighs in at 135 lbs behind a supercharged 4.0 and still the same, no breakage, but I expect it. Chalk it up to mechanical sympathy maybe, I always get through the same obstacles my wheeling buddies do, but they always end up snapping shafts and ujoints with hardier combos. There's a lot of luck, too. Maybe the last owner really liked dumping the clutch and those shafts are already fatigued. On the list for either this upcoming winter, or next spring, is a set of Currie 60s for the TJ, then I think the D44s will find their place at home under the Comanche. At which point I'm sure somebody local would be happy to have a set of 4.88 geared axles for dirt cheap. Assuming they're not toasted by then

This is my first unibody Jeep, that's why I'm asking these questions. I've set up several TJs and JKs with full adjustable suspensions, custom arms, etc. I'll make sure there's good clearance everywhere and bump stopped properly. I'm not planning to go wheeling with it but what's the point if it's not able to? Besides, I need to at least take a couple poser shots at the local mall when the paint's done. I'll be interested to see how much metal gets trimmed off with the Napiers. There definitely looks to be nowhere near enough room at the rear of the wheel well. Just ordered some American Racing Outlaw IIs in 15x8 3.75 flavor, so they're still going to be sticking out there a bit.