DirtyComanche

I wish I'd had a dad that could have at least given me that much advice. Ah well, I do okay for being a totally self taught numpty.

53007563AB Or get one from a HO (any, XJ/WJ/TJ/etc) in the junkyard for free. Just need a deep 15/16".

Most Renix era Jeeps don't have them working at this point. Since you can't really tell the difference, nobody fixes it when it fails. On my XJ the wires were all broken off. So I fixed it. I have no idea if anything changed after that.

I would like to buy more of those FSMs, but they're just expensive. I could really use an 87 or 88 one, and a 91 or 92. The Ford dealer near here tossed all their paper manuals a while back. Truckloads. They had it up on the buy and sell to come take whatever you wanted for free. The Dodge/Jeep dealer has long since got rid of theirs though...

There's just multiple P/Ns as they supersede them. There is a physical difference, but not a functional difference.

What Jeep Driver said is the easiest explanation. Generic: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=684506&cc=1180370&jsn=2933 Mopar: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10283388&cc=1180370&jsn=2934

There was somebody on here or eBay that was selling modified XJ units. I'd personally just mod an XJ one.

A fan shroud makes between a 30% and 50% difference in the efficiency of a fan... They're $15 on Rockauto for the newer style one, which is backwards compatible with the old style.

Check the other end of that harness, there's a change in the connectors sometime around there, they went away from the GM Weatherpacks to Chrysler connectors. It's obvious if it's a problem.

I'm assuming a Renix. It's super easy to just go to the junkyard and get the majority of the parts. Well, maybe, the 4.0 HO stuff is now much more common and it uses a different mounting bracket for the compressor. I'd just get the HO bracket. You can buy a new evaporator, condenser, and drier/accumulator for cheap off Rockauto or whatever, or roll the dice on used stuff working (the drier should not be reused either way). Failing a junkyard, find somebody parting out an XJ, guys do it all the time because they can make a few bucks between parts and scrap, offer to buy the whole A/C, brackets, and dash out of it. I've never swapped A/C in so I don't really know how different anything is in the HVAC system. You may need the plenum that the evaporator goes in too along with the heater core, as I believe they're different part numbers.. One way or another the whole dash is basically coming out. So better to get more parts than less and compare as you swap things over. If you were local I could have just given you basically a whole setup from deleting it out of my trail XJ.

Which engine do you have? I would return what you have regardless. It will be hack to install it.

Are those internally or externally regulated? I'm guessing external.

Exactly. Way easier to get the dash controls and evaporator from any XJ/MJ and go from there. Whoever recommended that for a Comanche probably doesn't know what one is. Honestly I think that's the one that's recommended for FSJs, I believe my buddy Rooney is using one in his...

I doubt it.

Why not use the factory parts? They're readily available.

I want to say I've seen that truck before... Probably a member here. I wouldn't buy a lifted truck to return to stock.

Companion flange. The other flange (on your axle) is the pinion flange... So the one that goes with it is the companion. But you will hear adapter flange too... Ford glues the ujoints in so they're rather terrible to get out. The Explorer would have the tight size. Hacksawing the driveshaft is easier if you're at a pick and pull type place.

Did you get a hose meant for that, or just some FI hose? Regular FI hose (or carb fuel hose) is not rated for immersion and will fail like the old hose did.

Wiring? I don't think he needs it, even if the 2.5L has a load compensating sensor.

Is this a manual transmission? Check your clutch master cylinder isn't leaking. It makes the fuse box look like that. And it will cause you far more problems in the long run.

Then as said, clean the ground up first and/or do Cruiser's improvement. You may also want to pull the cluster and check the plug, circuit board, etc, as I've seen them get quite corroded or gross. The whole cluster comes apart fairly easily. Make sure the plug is seated correctly when it goes back together.

You can test the individual sensors fairly easy. At least the temp sensor and the fuel sending unit.

Central Axle Disconnect. On the passenger side of the axle there is a vacuum actuated coupling that only connects the passenger side axleshaft when in 4wd. The theory of it is to save a little wear and tear and fuel economy, as it stops the front driveshaft from being driven significantly while in 2wd. Most people don't like it because it can cause some reliability issues and doesn't seem to make a measurable difference in fuel economy.

You can smash a new ujoint into the axle with it still attached to the hub. It's just more awkward. So no, you don't have to take the big nut off.

It's a fairly universal mount. I put one out of a Dodge Ram in my DD because it's wider, which gives me a better peripheral.