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nknapp16

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About nknapp16

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    Comanche Fan

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  1. Big morning, finally got rid of all the steering slop and it drives awesome now. (I cheated and turned the power steering adjustment allen, if it goes it goes, that other way looks very time consuming). Engine temp is constant, dash shows between 210 and I think 225. Infrared therm. Shows 150ish at thermostat housing and 185 at big hose going off it. And got a freebie finally, oil gauge pegged while driving, when I installed new gauge cluster tore some of the copper ribbon, slid in some wire, works but always in the back of my mind. When the oil gauge pegged I figured that came undone, (ugh taking apart gauge cluster again.....let's say it would of stayed like that for awhile), but the oil sender unit wire had just popped off. It's the small things in life haha, so back to driving her daily again after her sitting for .....3 weeks?
  2. Had a small coolant leak. After driving(up to temp) and turning it off, once it sat for awhile it would leave a small puddle under the jeep. Never saw where it was leaking from, but guessing the lower radiator hose. Anyways decided to just do it all, swapped out water pump, thermostat (stant), thermostat housing, fan clutch, and upper and lower radiator hose. Before temp was well below the 210 mark....guessing 190ish. Now it is just past 210, if I turn on the heat, it drops to 210 exactly...........from what i see (searches) this seem normal. Any input? Positive note- heat blew warm before, now is hot.
  3. Thanks guys, any suggestions for body rust? Should I knock it off or just spray with rust inhibitor/ primer? And what's the best/easiest spray to at least stop the rust for now.
  4. Whats up guys, guess its time to start a build sheet so I can look back. Bought a 1990 4.0, 4x4, AW4, D44, MJ with Metric Ton Package in May 2018 (212k miles). Had to be towed home, missed an interview because tow truck driver decided to run errands.....3 hours later (thought it had been stolen, wouldnt answer phone). Anyway it was rough when I got it, brakes nonexistant, oil pressure low and erratic. Only had 10 days to get in inspected(no driveway) fixed what I could and then had a garage take care of the rest(bill wasnt as bad as I thought itd be) they got the brakes working and switch the oil filter to a WIX, pressure evened out. Passed inspection, and now it takes up all my free time (ask my wife.....). Overall goal is to have something fun, but mostly reliable. As of now I drive it to work once a week (70 miles round trip) without fear. So far..... Changed stock items -windshield, hood latch, brakes, belt/idle pulley, exhaust (stock with thrush muffler), trans mount, battery, alternator, vaccum hoses, blower, TPS and CPS. Upgrade items- 746 fuel injectors, Meanlemons 60mm throttle body and battery cables, Crown Auto HD Steering Kit- RT21004, Gauge cluster with RPM tach and sensors, 31x10.5 General Grabber A/TX(some rubbing full turn), AND completed Cruisers Tips- 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 ,11, 14, 18, 19, 22, 23, 37 To do list- Rust removal, floor pans. At least a 3 inch lift....
  5. It was TPS related. Some problems went away after changing CPS, but not all. Once new TPS was installed no issues.
  6. Ugh, of course I ask this question, mine was avg 5-7 seconds, and then I go to work and smell gas under hood, hopefully o-ring, but will change regulator also, anyways.
  7. How long does it take to crank now with new regulator?
  8. From what I've read a bad CPS can cause many problems, no heat soak needed.
  9. Update for anyone else having similar problems. Jeep is running great now, doesn't stall out and oil pressure is better/more stable. Once up to temp lowest it goes is 10 psi, but operates between 20-40 psi. Completed cruisers tips 1-8, and 11. Cleaning electrical and upgrading grounds deff. helped jeep run smoother. Installing new CPS jeep ran much better, but would die when up to temp. It would start right back up and drive, but die if you let off the gas. Installed new TPS, adjusted, and everything ran perfect, no more stalling out. But went to start and battery didn't have enough crank. Checked battery on/off with voltmeter, alternator didn't seem to be charging battery. Installed new alternator and was able to drive 2 hours, no stalls, and strong startups. Thanks for all the help guys, shout out to cruiser54 and his manual!
  10. Found a stock one on ebay....they want 75....anyone know of a aftermarket one or anything from another vehicle?
  11. I looked.....what's a good replacement alternator bracket? I broke it. I'd relocate it, but want to keep ac.
  12. Waiting on new tps, then will def try the paperclip, I agree w eaglescout, genius.
  13. Update, waiting on new tps, I get reading of 10.3 when backprobing key on, but nothing when I back probe the other pin. Before it was .2 or .3. Also changed CPS with napa echelon, just to see if it worked old CPS reading .3. Drilled out new one to 3/8ths, installed, tested at .5. Went for a drive runs better, but once hot I can still get it to stall if I try, blip the gas and let off quick and it might stall, only at slow speeds though, coming to a stop. Tested cps after drive now going from .4 to .3..... Could this be tps related and not CPS?
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