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About SoCalManche

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    San Diego

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  1. I could have swore I had my sig setup, but now that you mention it, I haven't seen it on any of my posts. My bad. '86 2.5l
  2. Sidebar: can anyone tell me the size of this bolt? Mine seems to have walked off site. 🤷‍♂️
  3. I'm assuming you wouldn't entertain a separate sale of the factory roll bar.
  4. Yeah, any help would be great. All though I believe from what I've found thus far, I think replacing the rear bearing is rather difficult? Not entirely sure, hence this post. Hoping to generate some traffic to see if there
  5. I was just curious if there's a simple fix to an alternator squeal? With my belt off, I can simply turn the alternator by hand and get it to squeal. Never dealt with pulley replacement, and looking at the alternator specifically, don't know if it's more in-depth than say the power steering pump pulley.
  6. I think the most annoying part of watching that argument unfold was the other guy saying he trusts what he encounters himself, not taking into account that axles are swapped all the time.
  7. While we did snag the tow hooks with the brackets, we forgot to pull the sway bar and something else I think...oh, the damn power steering bracket. My '86 only has the alternator bracket adjuster, not the PS adjuster for the belt.
  8. Since getting mine in 2018, I've only seen one or two (with the one instance being the only time seeing them) on the road besides mine in San Diego, and know of another that is for sale in the SD area, as well as three that are at the local Jeep graveyard aka Hard Rock 4x4. Those three are not in the graveyard itself, and are operational; I believe one is the work truck. That being said, they also claim that there are a bunch of people looking for MJ parts from them; where the hell are the MJs then?!
  9. Hot damn is it awesome to finally have a sway bar! OEM 28mm sway bar with Rough Country (#1128) sway bar links, and Energy poly bushings and brackets. Had to go pick up the bolts to mount, and ouch, $11 for 4 bolts. Don't lose those bolts! For reference for anyone that needs them; M10x1.5x30. Anyways, she drives like a brand new truck! It's unreal! I had popping underneath that I thought was a shot steering box (PO also assumed this) and when I threw the bar on, seemed to re-align things to run just right. I ordered drop brackets because it definitely sits a little too close to the coils. Still waiting on those. So stoked!
  10. What a coincidence! I just happen to be taking a road trip up to WA for some parts and just happen to be in those neck of the woods then! Ha I am driving up from San Diego to pull that Waggy front clip you sent me a link to from Elma. Should be pulling sometime between the 14th - 16th.
  11. Got to try the ol' ball joint trick for the last bolt holding the toolbox down. It revealed a secret; not a factory bed liner! I'm digging the long bed look without the toolbox, though. Now to find a factory roll bar...
  12. Today was the big day after tireless working to get emissions ready to go; Smog Check Day. I sit there in waiting area trying to listen in on their conversation to hear how poorly she is probably doing on the test, and then I'm met with this: Hell yeah, baby! The satisfaction of seeing how low those numbers are makes the work well worth it. Suck it, California!
  13. Reviving this thread for a question that also deals with calibration. I have an '86 2.5L and I bought the truck with a busted tachometer, where idle would read 4,500-5,500 RPMs, and when you're cruising down the highway, the need is pointing direction at 6 o'clock. I like the red clusters anyways, so I snagged a full cluster to swap in and be done with it. Well, the tachometer is playing silly again, and now I'm reading 0 RPMs, even though it is calibrated to 4 cyl. And I'm very sure it is calibrated to the 4 cyl because if the adjuster is rotated the other way entirely, idle reads below the 0 RPM mark, even though it responds quickly anytime I open the throttle; the other tachometer also responded appropriately when throttle opened up. So my question is whether or not I'm extremely unlucky and both tachometers are just botched? I tested for voltage at the ICM and the dash harness, and got battery voltage both times, as well as 0 ohms as well. Any thoughts?
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