DirtyComanche

My 2wd springs were so sagged out that I went SOA with them and it matched the RE 3.5" front lift springs perfectly. (Yes, I planned that)

You're spending a lot of money to do it that way, when you could spend just as much for better results.

Good luck.

By the time you actually get the engine in there, get accessories on it, and look at it, you're going to realize the best option for getting the largest radiator in there possible is going to involve cutting everything out in the front. The entire 2.5L core support setup just hangs out too far back. The most successful swaps as far as being able to take punishment have the radiator mounted up where the 4.0L one is, except it is not the same size/shape, instead they cut out the front crossmember and stuff a narrower but much taller one in. To maximize this even more the end tank has to be a goofy shape to clear the steering box. Luckily the front crossmember can be reworked without any loss of strength/rigidity, and enough so that an air gap can be created so cool air is still pulled in nicely. Unless you want to cut your firewall out to move the engine back. Which is fine, but it snowballs if you want a working HVAC system and other things.

Yeah, it absolutely is. There is no advantage to starting with the 2.5L support.

Good luck.

The brake reservoir is sealed, so if you overfill it you'll just have it puke out as you put the lid on. Once the lid is on it won't leak out unless something is broken. Even then it won't leak from the master through the firewall, it can wind up in the brake booster, but it won't make it any farther than that.

It's probably not oil, it's probably brake (clutch) fluid. It's leaking from the clutch master cylinder out of the pushrod (which runs through the firewall) and dripping on the inside of the firewall. You need a new master cylinder, assuming this is where your leak is from, and you need to do it ASAP. You also might want to do the clutch slave and line at the same time, depending if it's an internal or external slave type.

At this point I will say I regret not going with a TDI versus the OM617. I had reasons for leaning towards the OM617, but unfortunately I have realized that some of my original research was wrong, and some of the assumptions I made turned out to be far worse in actuality. Spoiler for anyone... I'm probably going to put the OM617 in my J10 based on where I am at with it in the MJ chassis, versus where I would like it to be.

That's the problem with Novak, they build some good stuff that they got right, and they build some absolute trash that doesn't work at all. Their entire LS swap package falls into the trash category. Motor mounts that fail in short order, radiators that are expensive and leak, headers that are ridiculously overpriced and are basic bare steel, ECM tuning that probably won't ever even run decently...

Careful with Novak. They build some crap parts and some of their tech is straight up wrong.

I'd hold out for a long bed on the basis that the frame on them was meant to be longer. No real comment on which truck to buy otherwise, other than in general I have never regretted buying something that was nicer and have always regretted buying something that was a piece of junk.

I'd say that's the logical answer. The reality is that the engine compartment is fairly cramped on the MJ, so most swaps are going to lead to some significant compromise. Even the factory install of the 4.0L was a compromise on the cooling system.

I actually kind of like the 360, even though it's a bit of a turd. I think it's just the nostalgia factor. Buddy of mine put a 304 in his YJ. He admits it was mostly a waste of time/money. I could have hooked him up with a 4.oh and cut down harness so he would make the same power and better fuel economy. I've got a 360 out in one of my trash (parts only) J trucks. I was told "it just needs a coil to run", so sometimes I get tempted to tear it out and see if it's even rebuildable. It has some aftermarket bling on it too because the truck was used for mud racing (intake, carb, not sure what else). Probably could make it scream pretty good on propane. I doubt an AX-15 would be reliable behind it though, meaning there's not necessarily a ton of good/economical options at that point.

The spacer won't be a problem then. I've honestly never seen one fall apart, and they use salt here... I've seen them break from abuse, but that's different. As yxmj said, the YJ/TJ is the easy place to find a remote reservoir.

Engagement looks normal. Turn over by hand and confirm there isn't any odd binding. If the engine was sitting for a real long time you should have probably pulled the plugs and squirted some oil in the cylinders, turned it over by hand to check nothing bad was happening, then reinstalled the plugs. Check battery cables and connectors if nothing is binding, they certainly can give you a poor crank like that. Also the battery may be suspect.

I'm sure they can. Honestly I should have just called them and told them about the error, but I'm not sure if they would believe me (as some random internet weirdo). An actual customer reporting that it works backwards, and that the XJ and MJ share the same cluster, might get more response. I thought the SWB and LWB senders are the same. The tank is the same height, and really more or less the same other than the extra length to the rear of it.

That's interesting the MTS is making them, they've long been a great source for similar parts for older vehicles/jeeps. BUT. That's the wrong resistance range for you. 86-90 should be 0 ohms empty and 88 full (90-100 is close enough for a full value), 91/92 is 0 ohms full and 90-100~ empty. Edit. If you look at the options for XJ sending units, they are aware of the change between Renix and Chrysler era stuff, but obviously didn't know it applies to the MJ.

I'm pretty certain the input gears will swap between them... unless you have a later (95+) NP231 right now. There's a NP242 21 spline input gear in my Ecobox with a set of NP241DLD planetaries right now.

Rockauto, Ebay, Amazon, etc sell multiple brands of tanks. They're likely all made in the same factory. I bought a Spectra, seems fine. Rockauto lists the straps too, IIRC. They should be all the same length.

I wonder what model that repair manual is actually for?

I like the 242 but I don't know if it's really worth it. Ripping around in AWD is fun, and a certainly is a bit useful in less than ideal road conditions. Lack of a decent/inexpensive SYE is what kills it for me. But that's me, most people don't care to run a SYE. So...

Since every helicopter ever built features many inaccessible screws, I have a collection of options. The most basic is a wobble bit, which allows some 20 degrees of misalignment. It can then be put in a bit holder and turned with a ratchet if there's no space for the screwdriver. If that doesn't work the braided wire style flexible extension is an option. If there's no space for that, sometimes an extremely low profile thumb driver can get the job done. Failing that the shallowest bit in a 80, 90, or 100 degree bit ratchet is a possibility. If nothing else I twist them out with Cobra pliers. Or break $#!&. Sometimes it just comes down to breaking $#!&.

Yeah, soldering irons back from when they were actually irons... As in a chunk of metal (iron) that was heated up in a fire and then used to melt the solder. Much like early clothes irons were also just a solid chunk of metal.

I find it fascinating how those rides/attractions work.