DirtyComanche

Rebuilds on Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,cherokee,2.8l+173cid+v6,1179592,fuel+&+air,carburetor,5904 Kits. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,cherokee,2.8l+173cid+v6,1179592,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964 Cross reference those numbers with Amazon or whatever other online retailers. Sometimes they're cheaper. If you order through Rockauto look online for a 5% discount code.

Did you check rockauto? If they don't sell the carb, they probably sell the rebuild kit. Rebuilding it should only take a few hours.

Looks like that was a good car show, Jeep Driver. JKing on the way to work. Gogmorgo might recognize where this is.

You can test the TPS with a multimeter.

I went looking to buy one of those a while back. Everywhere I asked, people looked at me like I was 'tarded. Reminds me I should order one online. I don't really need it, I can do it with just a regular combination wrench.

With brakes you typically push the pedal to the floor, hold it (or have an assistant continue to push it), open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal, check the reservoir, push the pedal to the floor, open the bleeder, close it, release the pedal, etc. I'm not going to get into how you can or can't bleed something or how it is or isn't practically different, I'm just pointing out the typically accepted procedures vary.

Maybe, but not helpful to my thread. Nobody here has used anything but a Luk. Therefore we have no useful data.

99% of clutch issues I see on Jeeps involve Luk. The one in my 88 basically gave up the ghost snow wheeling. That was a HD and the engine is stock...

Lux?

Offroad you slip the clutch a lot more, versus most other applications where you're either only slipping it a little or you want it to be an on/off switch. Or I guess that's the theory. I'm not sure that a ceramic would drive nicely. But that said, modern ceramic brake pads work delightful.

I believe the NV3550 I purchased is fine as the issues with it were related to the clutch not disengaging. With that said, which clutch should I purchase? Basically limited to what Rockauto sells. Clutches are the same for an external slave AX-15 and a NV3550. Normally I just buy a Luk HD unit. Not sure I'm happy with their quality anymore. I actually have a regular Luk sitting on the shelf too, but really not that into running it... M-Pact offers a steel-backed high performance one they list as being for "off road" applications, plus other things. They also sell a couple other higher end ones, including a ceramic option. Would any of those be a decent idea? AMS also offers two, one is a hybrid organic kevlar (whateverthe@#$% that means) and the other is a kevlar. Sachs has a ceramic as well. Generally I believe Sachs/ZF to be good quality... They don't carry the Sachs mid range (kevlar) clutch though, just the ceramic ones. Sachs says the ceramic one is grabby. Also open to ideas on a flywheel. I think I have a Luk one, but probably just going to order one because I don't want to gamble on that and I pay 2-3X more locally VS Rockauto.

They bend. Specifically in the steering arm area. Problem? Not likely. But it is a factor. "Desired" depends entirely on what you're doing with it.

Those early windowed knuckles are also the weakest.

I have the chance to get a NV3550, which had trouble with going into 3rd gear, for very little money. It also might be fine because when they pulled it for replacement they realized the clutch was hanging up, but I would rebuild it either way. The rebuild kit is only $200 USD. Anyone take one apart? Any real special tools needed?

You can actually buy sealed/greasable rod ends from somewhere like EMF. He would spend more money on just the rod ends than any of the poll options would be as a complete kit. I can assure you that you are paying for a good product, and if I was to run a "Heim" style joint on the street they would be the only option I'd consider, but I didn't bother to mention them since just saying Heims don't belong on the street is a lot easier. The other downside to a Heim/rod end style of joint is most people just drill the knuckle out and put a bolt through in single shear. This is an abomination at the best of time, and certainly not what should be used on the street. There is tapered studs to somewhat alleviate this problem, and those combined with a proper safety washer are actually an overall better setup than a TRE/DLE is, but again this is throwing a lot of money around for minimal gain. The only reason to want to run that style of joint is so you can use proper double shear brackets in the first place, since that's where the real advantage lies. I don't know what I would do in OP's shoes. Probably not run a D30 with 35s to start with (expect a JK one maybe), so the steering would be fairly moot at that point.

You don't bleed it like brakes. Open the line, push the pedal to the floor, hold the pedal there, close the line, release the pedal (and make sure the reservoir is still full), open the line, push the pedal to the floor, hold the pedal there, close the line, release the pedal... Etc. I only put a hose over the bleeder because it makes less of a mess.

Heims aren't meant for the street. No other input as I've always built my own steering.

Junkyard had a few. $10 for 2, and I think one is OEM. It now idles correctly. The tip/seat is larger. It looks like if you use the renix one it's too small and misses the seat in the idle air passage. Now to sort out what is wrong with the transmission shifter.

Probably a junkyard item, or put up a wanted ad on the forum. Where are you located?

But is the plunger longer? Or is the tip/seat larger? I finally put plates back on my XJ, and it's idling at a bristling 1200RPM. When I pulled the IAC it was extended (probably) the whole way, much farther than I have ever seen one, to the point the sheath around the plunger was loose because the spring inside had completely slackened. This is with a HO TB and intake on a Renix, and I thought I used a HO IAC but it looks the same as all the other ones I have, leading me to believe it is a Renix one and that I need the HO one for it to actually be able to seal the idle air passage. The only place that had one in stock wanted $93 for it, which was actually fairly close to the dealer price of $130. So I'm going to probably just order one off Rockauto for much less, or maybe run to the junkyard today.

To do mine over I would do long arms, even at only 3.5" of lift.

I think the depth of the plunger is different. Going to buy an actual HO one tomorrow to check.

Again, see what Eagle said. Because it is spot on. If you're not scared you're about to die, it is not death wobble.

This. If you've crapped your pants, then once you get it stopped you just pull over and cry for a while, it's death wobble. If not, it's just a shake. Shouldn't matter that much. Probably has more to do with whatever tires you are running.

I have a bunch of random unknown source IACs around. Looking on RockAuto the Renix and HO carry a different P/N. Any idea if there is a functional difference or not?