DirtyComanche

Wow. Super cool. Blown away it's in such good shape. I'd love to get a hi-res done up as a poster for the wall!

TB spacers are mostly a myth. A larger TB or bored one might gain a little power, combined with a better intake and filter. For injectors everyone says to use the Volvo 746s on the Renix. I have them on one and Ford 710s on another. Neither vehicle is comparable to the other, besides both having Renix 4.0s, so I can't comment beyond they both run better than they did with old cruddy and leaking stock injectors.

Install an intake shutoff like the mine/gasfield trucks have. I don't think the kits are too much money, especially if you look around for a used one...

If you don't care if your (not working) warning light ever works again, you can just remove the factory oil pressure switch (it's not a sender) and replace it with the one you have. Somewhat related, anyone know what PSI the factory switch is supposed to turn the warning light on?

Wow Fiat. Integrated brake controllers have only been standard on trucks since about 2005. Hell, the company Dodge I'm driving right now has one.

Shouldn't the port for the pressure sending unit already be there, just with a pressure switch in it if you don't have a full gauge cluster? Or you want both a light and a gauge?

I'm not watching 20 minutes of boring crap to figure out what went on. Does the Gladiator not come with a factory brake controller?

The doors are definitely worth it, and I've been looking around for a pair with no luck.

What is that for? Standard thread filter in place of metric? If so you can just use the standpipe/threaded piece out of a HO engine.

The only reason I like it is that it makes purists angry.

Neat. Should be a "B" type fitting for torch (acetylene), or that would be my guess. Somebody was using that for oxy-propane cutting and heating. Not sure what a fitting to adapt that to POL would cost, but probably the same as it is to fill the tank.

Well, you've now got the part numbers, to Googling for a better deal.

Rebuilds on Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,cherokee,2.8l+173cid+v6,1179592,fuel+&+air,carburetor,5904 Kits. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1986,cherokee,2.8l+173cid+v6,1179592,fuel+&+air,carburetor+repair+kit,5964 Cross reference those numbers with Amazon or whatever other online retailers. Sometimes they're cheaper. If you order through Rockauto look online for a 5% discount code.

Did you check rockauto? If they don't sell the carb, they probably sell the rebuild kit. Rebuilding it should only take a few hours.

Looks like that was a good car show, Jeep Driver. JKing on the way to work. Gogmorgo might recognize where this is.

You can test the TPS with a multimeter.

I went looking to buy one of those a while back. Everywhere I asked, people looked at me like I was 'tarded. Reminds me I should order one online. I don't really need it, I can do it with just a regular combination wrench.

With brakes you typically push the pedal to the floor, hold it (or have an assistant continue to push it), open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the pedal, check the reservoir, push the pedal to the floor, open the bleeder, close it, release the pedal, etc. I'm not going to get into how you can or can't bleed something or how it is or isn't practically different, I'm just pointing out the typically accepted procedures vary.

Maybe, but not helpful to my thread. Nobody here has used anything but a Luk. Therefore we have no useful data.

99% of clutch issues I see on Jeeps involve Luk. The one in my 88 basically gave up the ghost snow wheeling. That was a HD and the engine is stock...

Lux?

Offroad you slip the clutch a lot more, versus most other applications where you're either only slipping it a little or you want it to be an on/off switch. Or I guess that's the theory. I'm not sure that a ceramic would drive nicely. But that said, modern ceramic brake pads work delightful.

I believe the NV3550 I purchased is fine as the issues with it were related to the clutch not disengaging. With that said, which clutch should I purchase? Basically limited to what Rockauto sells. Clutches are the same for an external slave AX-15 and a NV3550. Normally I just buy a Luk HD unit. Not sure I'm happy with their quality anymore. I actually have a regular Luk sitting on the shelf too, but really not that into running it... M-Pact offers a steel-backed high performance one they list as being for "off road" applications, plus other things. They also sell a couple other higher end ones, including a ceramic option. Would any of those be a decent idea? AMS also offers two, one is a hybrid organic kevlar (whateverthe@#$% that means) and the other is a kevlar. Sachs has a ceramic as well. Generally I believe Sachs/ZF to be good quality... They don't carry the Sachs mid range (kevlar) clutch though, just the ceramic ones. Sachs says the ceramic one is grabby. Also open to ideas on a flywheel. I think I have a Luk one, but probably just going to order one because I don't want to gamble on that and I pay 2-3X more locally VS Rockauto.

They bend. Specifically in the steering arm area. Problem? Not likely. But it is a factor. "Desired" depends entirely on what you're doing with it.

Those early windowed knuckles are also the weakest.