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Found 7 results

  1. stock gear box cleaned Remove the four main bolts inside you’ll find the retaining clip on the ballbearing case the bearings travel side to side in I started out by pulling as many balls out as possible. I didn’t have a magnet on a stick so I glued a magnet to a stick. take the shaft side nut loose with a spanner I don’t remember the number of ball bearing. But did get a pic of the ball bearing size. In some of the case there is two different styles of bearings some chrome. And some dull finish. Mine had both styles alternating but the same size. use the cylinder to push the aluminum end cap out with a wooden hammer handle to pry with after removing the lock ring Remove the snap ring from the bottom . Pull the seal out and then press the old bearing out while you have it this far apart. My deal was melted from trying to get the pitman arm off. The spot to drill is pretty easy to find. The castings are flat in this area. drill into the veins of the box but not to far as to go through the other side. I used a 1/4 npt tap Then blow through the box a few times with compressed air and maybe oven pour some fluid through the holes and then hit it with some compressed air. When reassembling the most important part is the bearings on the worm screw. The need to be added evenly along the screw. I had to move it back and fourth a few times as I was dropping them in. I used a little grease to hold them inside the u shaped case And filled it up before sticking it back in place and fighting the bolts down if you get it back together and it moves for a moment then stops your bearings are out of wack. Take it back apart and make sure the bearings are in correctly
  2. So, noticed a shake every now and again, so I decided to check and grease the front suspension. When I went to grease the pass side tie rod end, the joint moved!! So... Time to replace and/or upgrade. The problem: what year is my axle? Truck is an 89, but everything was changed on it before I bought it.. D30, non-disconnect, hi pin, 27spline... All seems correct, but when I go for upgraded tie rods, I come up against 84-90 or 91+. WTF is the difference?!? More importantly, how do I determine difference? HELP...
  3. I'm looking for a steering upgrade. I'm going for a 1-ton set up for peace of mind with 35's in future. My mj sees the road often since the closest trail is a 40 minute drive and I drive it around town here and there. My biggest hold up is going with heims or the traditional tre. I keep finding that the heims are stronger but the tre's last longer for wear and tear. With all the mud and sand the mj sees here, I'm wondering if the heims will get gunked up as soon as I get on the trail. Input on the longevity of heims? There's several companies I'm looking at, figure I'd start a poll to see what you guys have had the best experience with. I was thinking for heims I'd go with Cavfab and tre's I'd do Ironman4x4. I know Stinkyfab uses aluminum rods but why not throw them in the mix too.
  4. Hello fellow members. As some may know I just got my jeep running and driving, and when I brought her back from a spin around the block I saw it was dripping some fluid I freaked out for half a second thinking it was oil, I checked all the spots oil could leak from and they where all dry. I took a second look and my manual steering box is leaking. at first i thought it was from the sector shaft seal where the pitman arm connects after talking to Lee but its leaking from the front of the steering box. How could I fix this up?
  5. I've used these guys in the past, have always been fair and honest with me. www.benzspring.com
  6. It turns out that on my first wheeling trip with the MJ I slightly bent the tie rod adjusting sleeve. This, along with pulling the threads out of the tie rod adjusting sleeve, is a very common problem as the factory really cheaped out on the design of the long hollow adjusting sleeve and two short tie rod ends especially considering the fairly exposed location of this part. One solution is a heavy duty steering kit. Many companies offer some version of this but they can be expensive. Some of these also flip the TRE's on top of the knuckle. These require varying degrees of modification to install. For some these kits may be the way to go but again they can be pricey and/or time consuming to install. Here is one option for $480. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-Steering/Currectlync-Heavy-Duty-Tie-Rod-System.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=430&t_pt=6195&t_pn=curce-9701&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=product&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwgMieBRCB3bqB94e9lD4SJABW3sTNGb9ew9C41ITXormQ6HKmj9A9-ir3KBmsrCJHfC4T6BoCZkjw_wcB . But 99% of the time the drag link is not an issue and the stock piece is already a solid bar like what is included in most of the kits. Really only the tie rid assembly is different unless you do the fab work to flip the TRE's. To just replace the weak hollow assembly here is an option: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/omix-ada-tie-rod-long-kit-zj-v8-18054.09/10186043-P . It is the factory set up from a Grand Cherokee ZJ with a V8 . This gets you the heavy duty solid bar tie rod assembly with the much stronger adjusting sleeve. Using Advance Auto's ever-present online discounts and free shipping this kit this kit cost me $96.04 shipped. It includes everything that you need and is 100% bolt-on. Just remember to do your tape measure alignment to set the tow when you are done. This was a 15 minute job.
  7. Hello... new to the club :) I have an 86 with the 2.5 FI. A couple of months ago the steering wheel and column started loosening up around its center... it got worse with time. Basically the wheel can be moved laterally and vertically in a "cone" type pattern. What works: -tilt mechanism -turn signals / wipers -steering function (no rotational slop) What's bad: -high beam function only works by slightly tilting the wheel upwards -ignition block feels sloppy and sometimes jams (still I can get the truck started every time) -laterally pushing the wheel (due to its slop) to the left will cause a break in electrical contact to the ignition (probably the worst aspect of this problem) Need to understand exactly what component needs replacing (column?) or if this one can be repaired. I have access to a shop and can tinker... but not sure what to start taking apart here. Thanks! Alex
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