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dustyinthedirt

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    Old Fort NC

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Comanche Aficionado

Comanche Aficionado (4/10)

  1. Did our yearly New Years cruise we waited till the 2nd though since the weather was crappy on the 1st. it was worth the wait
  2. Thank you! And yes the front truss is a Artek . Made locating all the links really easy
  3. The sliders where a labor of love. Once all of this plasma stuff gets going I’m going to maybe batch a few sets out. As with the rear bumpers. The plasma should be Thursday it’s gonna get nuts from there.
  4. Finished welding the rear bumper up this Evening. Going to make a tie in to the x in the rear of the frame to the hitch and just run a d ring from it. Pretty happy with how it turned out.
  5. Thank you! I have thought about adding in another brace in the future
  6. Soon my friend. Soon it will all be one color... blue or white? I can’t decided. I’m thinking blue but white will show less scratches over time...... but blue though. Can somebody tell me the color of this Comanche? beautiful truck
  7. to step Up into the bed easier as said before but also to push it off a rock around the tire is the hope
  8. old trac bar mount new one I also remade the trac bar mount. It was never supposed to be permanent but ended up that way. Couldn’t cut all of it off so I had to scan a piece beside it to make a good mounting point to the unibody. Really should have added frame stiffeners when I had it apart. also added limiting straps from wide open designs. I didn’t get a picture of all that but I will
  9. I notched the rear quarters... I had already bent both sides. From coming down on a rock. I do still have them if anybody wants them I will stick in a box and send it your way. I sprayed the raw edge woth some primer for now. finished the front bumper up. Started on a reaR bumper. not a huge fan of the bumper so it will probably change. this is 1” off the bump and full lock to passenger
  10. Thanks guys! If y’all get stuck rebuilding yours shoot me a message and I’ll try to help. very satisfying when you put it back together and everything works smoother and doesn’t leak
  11. stock gear box cleaned Remove the four main bolts inside you’ll find the retaining clip on the ballbearing case the bearings travel side to side in I started out by pulling as many balls out as possible. I didn’t have a magnet on a stick so I glued a magnet to a stick. take the shaft side nut loose with a spanner I don’t remember the number of ball bearing. But did get a pic of the ball bearing size. In some of the case there is two different styles of bearings some chrome. And some dull finish. Mine had both styles alternating but the same size. use the cylinder to push the aluminum end cap out with a wooden hammer handle to pry with after removing the lock ring Remove the snap ring from the bottom . Pull the seal out and then press the old bearing out while you have it this far apart. My deal was melted from trying to get the pitman arm off. The spot to drill is pretty easy to find. The castings are flat in this area. drill into the veins of the box but not to far as to go through the other side. I used a 1/4 npt tap Then blow through the box a few times with compressed air and maybe oven pour some fluid through the holes and then hit it with some compressed air. When reassembling the most important part is the bearings on the worm screw. The need to be added evenly along the screw. I had to move it back and fourth a few times as I was dropping them in. I used a little grease to hold them inside the u shaped case And filled it up before sticking it back in place and fighting the bolts down if you get it back together and it moves for a moment then stops your bearings are out of wack. Take it back apart and make sure the bearings are in correctly
  12. Do you want the ones that open or stationary?
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