All around mj

They still have them here http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=4_179 go to the lighting section, accent & mood, and they will be in the incandescent section. I think 5 or 6 products down.

Okay, that did the trick. It seems as though the lock doesn’t want to disengage all the way until you play around with it. It felt like it was unlocking, but I felt the switch/button move a bit further when it actually did unlock. Looks like I have just added more to my “Spring time tear down and rebuild” list. Thanks for the help. My brother in law and I were both trying to get the door to open for a bit yesterday and eventually gave up.

Thank you for the response. I’ll go give it a try and let you know the results.

Yesterday I locked my doors. When I got back I unlocked them and the passenger side will not open. I think I have an idea of what I need to do, but I figured I would see if anyone had dealt with this issue before and if they have any tips, tricks, or suggestions.

I’m sure there’ll be another time. I’m getting ready to tear my truck back apart anyway. I’ll be trying to start a build thread for it soon.

I work rotating 12s 6am to 6pm

I should have checked the calendar before I asked. I’ll be working that Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

Is the map showing that you are stopping in Springfield, MO on the 1st? It’s about an hour drive from my house, but it’s also where Bass Pro’s story begins.

Nice work. I’ve got to ask, how much lift did you get out of the back with your swap? I’ve some Super Duty axles that I’m trying to work on and wasn’t quite sure how much I’ll have to lift the front. Keep up the nice work. I’m looking forward to seeing your progress.

Thanks for the response. It’s what I was looking for, since I really don’t want to have to tear things up if I don’t have to. I did look into some of the factory holes in the rails with a flashlight and the most I saw in there was a few speckles of surface rust but nothing as far as pitting or rot. Stopping what has already started and preventative measures for future problems is what I’m really aiming for. Thanks for the suggestion. I will be looking into borescopes now. Now I just need to get the cab leaks taken care of so I can start working on the rust.

I’ve got surface rust only and will have to remove the floor supports and upper unibody rails to clean it up, so I was wondering while that is going on, would it be possible to remove the entire floor pan without the truck falling apart? I ask because I would like to see how the inside of the rails look while cleaning up the rust, but also would like to keep the floor pan as whole as possible since I have no rusted through areas anywhere.

Thanks for the reply. I was wondering because I have been thinking about getting the fenders and bedsides when I put my tons in since the new stance will be considerably wider than stock. I’m still trying to figure out how to go about mounting the bedsides. What kind of fasteners did you use? Got any good pictures of the process or tips?

Hannemann Fiberglass

Everything from the dash forward will fit. Front doors on a four door XJ will fit the MJ. Engine, transmission, and transfer case will swap right in. Front suspension and drive line also. As long as it’s from the same era all those components should swap over, however high output and renix electrical and head/exhaust manifold are different and they switched from vacuum disconnect to non-vacuum disconnect on the front axle on high output as well. Coolant systems are easily swappable from closed to open as well.

How did you go about your fuel setup with those bedsides? Did you retain the stock filler neck?