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donald.wade3

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About donald.wade3

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  1. So what I’ve done. Tested D pins. All tested same as above. I’ve pulled hazard/stop fuse. Put in dome fuse, no issue. Put in haz/stop fuse. No issue since. Until next time dome fuse blows. I did disconnect pass side dome switch that was missing the rubber bushing. Just want to keep this one going Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Will check it as soon as I finish the tail lights and cleaning the old crap out and putting new dielectric grease. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I posted it on all things Comanche on Facebook as well and someone confirmed it is the turn signal/hazard harness. At this point who knows what all I have and where. I did at some point have brake lights and all go out and changed the fuse. But I have the had the left turn signal light stay on before with the headlights. So I checked that and it seemed to be slightly loose. Well the plastic harness connector was broke in half. So either I’m going to order a new harness connector or go to pull a part one pull one out. I’m wondering if that is what was causing my 12v circuit on that fuse. Sen
  4. Yeah it does have a battery in it. Do you know what this harness is? My guess is turn turn signal/hazards? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Continuity just the cont light. The 12v it lights up to the 12v mark. Using this light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. All of my sockets look like this on the back. I’m the process of cleaning them out and using dielectric grease Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. So would that mean I have a short in the tail lights somewhere for it to be 12v with the key off and not on the pedal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. So tested test light POS in pin NEG on battery(-) D1-5 no continuity- key off red wire in. D1-5 no continuity-key off red wire out. D2-4 12v with key on red wire out D2-4 continuity when key off red wire out D1-6 continuity key off red wire out D1-6 same continuity key on red wire out I also tested the circuit on the fuse block with test light. Top row of pins have continuity second row of pins I have full 12v on HAZ/STOP with key off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I will be doing this today. Have been super busy the last couple days with other projects around the house. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Will do. If I don’t get to it today I will get it tomorrow. I appreciate all your help for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Will do. Today. Have to get new light tester and multimeter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I just tried to put a new fuse in with the truck off and it popped as soon as it made contact. Twice. Once with the it off and once with it on. The driver door was open. Trying to put them in the dome slot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. So currently I am running the fuel pump hot wire from the fuse block. Powered when key is on. This morning I have added an inline fuse with a 20amp fuse. In the previous pic of the fuse block, the wire the PO used for the fuel pump power is the upper red one that goes from the block to the ballast bypass wires spliced together. If that makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yeah they all seem pretty odd. I am trying to figure out the PO mess and butchering of the wiring. The radio doesn’t come on with the key off. It is strange for that to be happening though. I have also decided to add an inline fuse on my power wire for the fuel pump for now. Just to be safe for the time being. Haven’t had any problems with it really. Just everything around that pin. The lower wire is for the switch on the dash for the fan. With an inine mini fuse. One thing I have noticed as well, while trying to figure all this out, is that on some of the open pins that should be open, only o
  15. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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