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what did you do to your MJ today?


JeepcoMJ

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My tailgate stopped opening Saturday afternoon for some reason. And my turn signals stopped working last week too. I pulled the tailgate off yesterday to see what was happening. The right side latch wasn't moving. I found that the pivot lever under the handle had bent down and wasn't in its detent. I bent the lever back up, and lubed the whole thing. Working great now, and smoother than ever.

 

I decided to start looking at the fuses first for the turn signals. And that was it, the fuse was corroded and lost good contact. Easy fix. I'm still working on what I want for a new license plate mount in the rear. I think I'm getting it narrowed down though. That and wiring up my driving lights. The universal directions that come with the lights are hard to read, so I made my own wiring diagram to follow.

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Socially Distanced Edition!

 

I fixed my "death" wobble again, sort of! ('89) The solution was, as was kinda expected, to swap the tires from the '91 on to it. Ever since having some new wheels put on it (with known out-of-round tires, so I should've known what I was getting myself into), the death wobble suddenly came back with a vengeance. This is a little bit different death wobble, though - the steering doesn't shake back and forth and it's much easier to pull out of than normal death wobble.

 

After arguing with the shop tech that my worn out steering stabilizer and "loose" (freshly adjusted per FSM guidelines and one of the tightest Saginaw boxes I've driven with) steering box had nothing to do with it and the tires were the only thing that had changed proved futile, I decided to rob the front tires off of my other truck. Wobble gone! This may accelerate my plans of putting some 16" wheels on the silver truck. The Michelins on it now are more than halfway worn down and starting to get a little old, so it's a little bit justified.

 

Also on the 89, I replaced the ignition switch with one that came with the truck when I bought it. The Overloaded Brown Wire (tm) circuit that feeds the blower, windshield wipers, and other accessories showed some heat checking on the connector, so when I do the interior refresh I'll be getting a new connector body for that. Accessory function is now much better, but the volt gauge is still a lying sack of $#!&.

 

I also replaced the oil filter adapter o-rings to slow down the ridiculous oil leak this engine has. My new engine plans have been delayed, so I'm doing what I can to keep this engine going for a little bit longer. Thanks @Knucklehead97 - the o-rings you provided were a perfect fit.

 

I might even drive it to work one day next week, just for $#!&s and giggles.

 

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I had a calliper seize on me the other day on the Littlest Comanche. So I did what any sensible person would do, buy another. But the new one was black, and the one I put on the other side a year ago isn’t. So instead of suffering with mismatched callipers, I painted the black one red. :applause::doh:008CDB20-2BEF-4067-A7AA-F9E979487B61.jpeg.572c22510387c68a8818effbf96217f8.jpeg

Maybe I’ll get around to painting the other one, or maybe I won’t. 

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11 minutes ago, gogmorgo said:

I had a calliper seize on me the other day on the Littlest Comanche. So I did what any sensible person would do, buy another. But the new one was black, and the one I put on the other side a year ago isn’t. So instead of suffering with mismatched callipers, I painted the black one red. :applause::doh:008CDB20-2BEF-4067-A7AA-F9E979487B61.jpeg.572c22510387c68a8818effbf96217f8.jpeg

Maybe I’ll get around to painting the other one, or maybe I won’t. 

You didn't happen to paint "Brembo" on the side did you?  :laugh:

 

I love fresh paint on calipers, just looks good.

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Since the engine plans are on hold, I started doing something about this.

g6nJjx1.jpg

dl1StVnl.jpg

iFovvhQl.jpg

 

Verdict: The passenger side is 99% solid, with a few areas of pretty deep pitting. I think I can get away without any new sheet metal there. The driver side? Everything in front of the driver seat is rotten, with pinholes reaching almost all the way up the transmission tunnel to the shifter, and truly solid metal doesn't start until the middle of the seat mounting area. I have a fresh set of spot weld cutters on order, and once they get here, I'll start removing the frame bracing to get an idea of what's going on underneath. Hopefully the inside of the uniframe is clean, because that's really not something I want to deal with.

 

Debating between buying a Raybuck XJ pan for the driver side or just fabbing it all myself. I think any XJ floor pan would need so much rework to look right that I just might as well make it from scratch anyway. I'll probably cut the driver side transmission tunnel out of an XJ, as there's no way to save what's there.

 

Once the rust is dealt with to my satisfaction, I'll be putting in an XJ parking brake and the dash and HVAC box are coming out to make way for a new A/C evaporator, interior vacuum harness, some repairs to the dash harness, and the appropriate amount and variety of sound deadening materials. After that, it's all going back together, hopefully all in one go. It might be a while before this truck has an interior in it again!

 

As a side note, I freakin' love my new cordless grinder for stuff like this.

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Just started ripping out the interior, getting ready to clean it all up and replace all the rusty screws and the screws that weren't even there. I pulled the back half of the gross vinyl flooring and it was perfect , i moved onto the front and its awful, i can't see the driveway yet but its close.

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On 3/26/2020 at 9:21 PM, Dzimm said:

You didn't happen to paint "Brembo" on the side did you?  :laugh:

 

I love fresh paint on calipers, just looks good.

No Brembo paint. Didn’t think it was worth it. I ended up having to redo the paint, didn’t prep properly and put it on too thick to compensate, didn’t work out. I don’t really paint things very often, haha. 
Finally got it installed the other day. It’s like wearing lingerie at the office. F920E872-2D46-48FA-BAAB-7ED43C9C4827.jpeg.de65cf612e6635b0673cc0c2ad1d5601.jpeg

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On 3/29/2020 at 7:57 PM, Minuit said:

Since the engine plans are on hold, I started doing something about this.

g6nJjx1.jpg

dl1StVnl.jpg

iFovvhQl.jpg

 

 

Debating between buying a Raybuck XJ pan for the driver side or just fabbing it all myself. I think any XJ floor pan would need so much rework to look right that I just might as well make it from scratch anyway. 

Keyparts pan fit really well for my MJ , way better than a c2c pan . 

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15 minutes ago, Strokermjcomanche said:

Keyparts pan fit really well for my MJ , way better than a c2c pan . 

I'll probably be fabbing it from scratch just for some metalworking practice, but good to know :L:

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8 minutes ago, thehomelesdepot said:

Took the early 2000s aftermarket radio out and replaced it with a stock tape deck from a 96 Cherokee. Looks much better and just in time for cassette tapes to make a big comeback.

IMG_20200412_151256.jpg.6fbcb5cebc00fe4ca56cce362033f185.jpg

 

Looks good :L:

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I got this idea from another member many, many years ago. I used XJ roof rack rails as cargo tie downs on the inside bed rail of my SWB. I had to shorten them by ~1 1/2 inches and modify the plastic gasket underneath. They have clips (first picture) which slide down the rail and cinch up when the attachment clips are screwed into them. I've had these rails for 10 years and finally got them installed! I had to remove the roll bar to gain access which will go back in next weekend, it's a snug fit but it does fit with the rails in place.

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11 hours ago, fiatslug87 said:

I got this idea from another member many, many years ago. I used XJ roof rack rails as cargo tie downs on the inside bed rail of my SWB. I had to shorten them by ~1 1/2 inches and modify the plastic gasket underneath. They have clips (first picture) which slide down the rail and cinch up when the attachment clips are screwed into them. I've had these rails for 10 years and finally got them installed! I had to remove the roll bar to gain access which will go back in next weekend, it's a snug fit but it does fit with the rails in place.

 

Does this only work with the older XJ roof rack rails? or does it work with the newer ones too?

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7 minutes ago, thecodemonk said:

Does this only work with the older XJ roof rack rails? or does it work with the newer ones too?

 

Not sure what the "newer" ones look like, but if they're just a channel with sliding clips I don't see why they wouldn't, unless they are too wide.

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36 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

 

Not sure what the "newer" ones look like, but if they're just a channel with sliding clips I don't see why they wouldn't, unless they are too wide.

Here's the rail on my 01 XJ.  Probably not as good for use as bed cargo rails.

IMG_20200420_093353.jpg

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20 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

 

Hey thocodemonk I can't see your picture, but from derf's picture I have to agree with him the new ones may not work.

 

Yeah, mine was similar, just a different angle.  Sounds like it's time to hit the junkyards for some XJ roof rails!

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Make sure you keep the Torx bolts that secure the rails to the XJ roof, they have a very flat head so the clips can slide over them. I purchased stainless pan head Torx bolts and ground the heads for clearance. Then when I went to grab the screw-in attachments I found the original bolts in the bag :dunce::doh:

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