thecodemonk

Honestly, that should be perfect and more than enough for any RTT. 120 wall is what I'll be trying when I get around to building a rack again so if it works great for you, let me know so I know for sure!

The bed rack is actually really simple, but were I to do it again, I'd use something thinner as, while strong, it was stupid heavy (all 0.25" 2x4 square tube cut and welded together and then attached to 0.125" angle iron). I ended up drilling holes into the inside of the bed and just bolting it on with some grade 8 bolts and washers. I built it by making the hoops to match the roofline (one at each end...at this point I found out that the bed is a different width in the back compared to the front, but was too far into it to change it). Then I just put a long beam front to back with a couple of cross beams in between. This was my main tool for cutting and how I got everything lined up to be even...it's sketchy but it worked (this was back when we just got the shop built, so it's nice and empty) It was level enough to support the heavy beam without moving, so it worked. I would definitely recommend one of these band saws...it makes nice clean cuts really easily and really helped in getting everything on the correct angles. After the first few cuts, I went and measured again... and again and again until I had a mini mockup to make sure I was on the right path. From there, I knew I had the angles right and made my first hoop...then test fit it on the MJ to make sure it matched the roofline (I had some help holding it up while I stepped back to eyeball it) I tacked the first hoop onto angle iron that I cut to length for the bed rails. Then, I made another identical hoop for the back. The back of the bed is narrower than the front of the bed but it was close enough that I just went with it (and was short on time before a trip that needed this done for). After that, it was simple. I measured and cut some north/south beams to connect the hoops: Then measured and cut some east/west beams to add to the structure: I welded it all up as best as I could and jumped on it a while to make sure it wouldn't fall apart. Then set out on the trip...I ran out of time to paint it so it gathered a bit of surface rust as I went but it worked. Since I built it all on the truck, I didn't realize how heavy it was until I had to take it off. It takes three strong adults all of their strength to get it on and off the truck and easily weighs 400+ lbs. Definitely overkill, but it looked great. I do want to make it again, but use thinner steel next time (and correct the rear hoop width). From my notes when I built it: (I may have had to invert some of the numbers when I went to the saw (180-x)...I can't remember now, but when you do it, it'll be obvious to you) Each leg I cut: - Bottom of leg at ~17 degrees - Top of leg at ~36 degrees - Outside length of the leg was 21" long (top to bottom) For the angle iron: - Bed Ledge is approx 1" wide - Length of ledge is 89-90" - Length of inside bed is 87.5 (got to cut some room on the inner side of the angle iron so it fits around the front of the bed and the tailgate stop at the back) Top beam for the hoop is - 48.5" / 45.5" lengths (top/bottom) - Cut top at angle of ~37 degrees

Looks like a solid list and plan! Don't forget "check floorpans for rust" and "refresh all grounds ala Cruiser's tips" Also, doesn't JCR's rock sliders only fit a short bed? It looks like you have a long bed on there, so you might be better off checking out Dirtbound Offroad or Krustyballer's (or fabbing up your own)

Yeah it is! His MJ looks just as gorgeous in person as in the pictures. :) The canopy really does work well on the MJ...I'm liking it so far. It does sit a little farther back compared to how it probably should due to the rear tailgate having a bit of a bow in it (which means the rear glass won't close without the canopy sitting back a little). The canopy does cut down on wind noise on the highway too, which is a nice benefit. For people who may have wondered, heat isn't an issue so far while driving around town or on the highway...I mean, it's cold out still, but even going up hill on the highway, the max temps I saw for the engine was 200 degrees and the max temp for the trans was 135, but usually sat around 120. In town, it stays closer to 125-130 most of the time, once warmed up (warmer in town since TC lockup isn't as common and no TC lockup = more heat).

Yoink, grabbed it :) Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Mostly daily driving it right now, but this happened recently (with@Ls2xjcomanche )... Canopy time!! Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

210 is within normal operating range. You may have had a lower temp thermostat in there previously that started cooling earlier. It doesn't always work (usually just means it takes longer to get "up to stabilized temperature"). My 01 XJ and the 91 MJ (pre-LS) both ran between 195-210ish pretty consistently without issues. I'd only worry if it started to get up to 220-230 range consistently.

Sweet! Congrats on passing smog! Looks like a good base for a project...though what happened to the front bumper?

I had some similar weirdness and when I finally took it into an electrical shop, they mentioned that there was an issue with the hazzard switch and wiring that caused weird behaviors. Maybe just double check that to start?

This was exactly my thoughts. That said, that's the segment he's going after with it...those who tow as well as those who want the appearance of those who tow, more than the rock crawler.

I mean...Elon did SAY that it would be divisive and "not for everyone", and I think that's proven accurate. My wife thinks it's horrific, I think it's interesting...not amazing, but not as bad as a lot of people make it out to be. It'll be interesting to see if it shakes up other aspects of the truck industry as they are doing some wild changes to the traditional light-duty truck formula.

Ouch! Glad you're ok and looking forward to seeing your journey in fixing up the MJ!

Looking good!

Rylee, you are like a marketplace master haha. Looking forward to more details on this build as it progresses!

F-body pump fits narrow and mid spacing...2010 camaro pump fits truck spacing but puts one of the connections for the hose potentially on the wrong side (depending on your radiator). The build looks great! I'm excited to see this continue to progress! :)