thecodemonk

It's really not too hard to weld up some metal into the angles for ours. We don't have as many curves to consider with our old trucks, compared with the new ones. :)

I did years ago...it was pretty easy to use. You should be able to delete the bad audio and overlay a new one on top no problem (or just mute the audio from the video and use your own instead). I know I did that when I was using it.

Blinkers and brake switch...when I had this issue, I had something wrong with my hazzard lights switch which caused it to act wonky (blinkers don't work like you'd expect if your hazzards are considered "on" but not working, for example). I would check into that as well. When I fixed my hazzards, my blinkers and brake lights worked as expected.

Cheapest option would probably be to take a compatible GM t-case from a junkyard, freshen it up a bit, and throw it on there...bolt it up and go (I'm assuming the clocking is fine...I've never done it, so I'm not 100% sure). If adapting the np231 from the XJ or MJ: - Novak's kit replaces the output shaft in your trans (requires disassembly of the trans...not for the faint of heart) - AA's kit replaces the input shaft in your np231 (requires opening up the t-case, bleeping jeep has some videos that can help with guidance on this...it's pretty easy) Of the two "adapt" options above, I can tell you that modifying the t-case is way easier than cracking and messing around with the internals of any automatic trans. I went with the AA kit and it works great and fit easily.

Double checked my old email receipts...yup. Boostwerks is the one I had (before I went to a cable shifter with the current powertrain setup)

Looking good...not that I'm biased about the blue or anything :)

As was stated, this is primarily in newer cars. A lot of newer jeeps (primarily wranglers, but some others might have this too) also purposefully left it so you could use the starter in 4 low while in gear as a feature so that if you stalled in a tricky obstacle, you could start it in gear to help you crawl without having to do crazy stuff with your clutch and potentially get you in a worse situation.

Huh...I got one from somewhere else and I seem to recall adjustment was done in 4 low in the instructions I used.

Main advantage is reliability. The CAD mechanism is prone to failure and is needlessly complex (while providing questionable mpg benefit, which was the reason they did it). Locking it in place helps, but it's still more parts to fail...one piece shaft is reliable and simple (and a lot easier to work on if you need to swap a shaft). ...that said, I'm still running CAD in the front of mine because I'm too lazy to get around to installing the seal (especially in the cold).

Oh...L33's are not as easy to find (that's one of the reasons a lot of us went the LM7/L59 route). The LS-swap route isn't a cheap one but it's well worth it in the grins every time we drive the rigs. :)

Whew! What a journey! I'm excited to see what happens next! Beautiful truck :)

That's awesome! That bed doesn't seem like it'd be too hard to fab up either...all simple angles and standard square tubing. Hmmm

Man, I'm bad about updating this thing...more details to come, but this is a thing that happened recently.

I can't wait for this! The more options we have for our beds, the better!

So...how'd it all end up looking? :)