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I'm getting ready to put my revamped headliner back in my '87 4-cl / 4-speed (base), and I am going to install an overhead dome light. I was just going to do my own wiring job and then I encountered a mystery wire. I'm wondering if anyone knows it's purpose. It is coming off of (or at least it is sprouting from) the wiring harness for the driver's side courtesy lights (are they called "courtesy lights" or do they have a different name?). I'm colorblind, so I'm not always great with colors. The wire is striped. I'm thinking it is black and white, based on the Haynes manual I have. The manual indicates this is for the cargo lamp. Do you all know if this is indeed for the cargo lamp? If it is, I won't touch it, as that seems like something I might want to add one day. Or is it possible that this is for an optional overhead dome light? I probably should have looked at my wiring diagram before starting this post, as I'm starting to think I just answered my own question. Then again, I've been wrong plenty in my life. Heh. So what do you all think? Including pics for reference. If it is for the cargo light, I'm glad to know it. I didn't even realize that was a thing and I can see how useful it would be. I have a camper shell and a dog. It would be great to be able to run something to the camper and be able to check on Lima when it's dark out (among many other applications).

Long time listener, first time caller! Ive got a lot to explain, so ill get right to the point: 87 Comanche HO Swap Ran after swap fine for a month Problem: A short in the dash powerside wiring (the small orange/black wire) caused a no start problem The dash light wiring has been repaired Symptoms: No spark from coil No injector pulse Fuel pump primes but not running during cranking Intermittent Voltage gauge operation Tachometer not working Diagnostics: CPS is newish and tests at 235 ohms and puts out .5v ac current during cranking 5v at tps and map TPS tests puts out 0.8v MAP tests good O2 tests at roughly 400 ohms Both temp sensors test good Replaced coil, ICM, coil lead 12v and good ground at ICM 3 prong plug Ground at ICM 2 prong plug (not sure if this is supposed to be, the wire is yellow) 12v to coil from ICM Opened up ECU, looks good and all testable components tested good The four relays behind the battery all test good, same with the relay on the drivers side engine bay Cleaned C101 connector (was filled with goopy sticky black stuff) Cleaned plug going to fuse box 9 filled with same stuff) Checked the CPS resistance at ECU pins D1 and C1, came back same as at CPS Checked all fuses and fusable links Cleaned ground strap and connections at the starter relay I thought I had no power at ECU but I think I am testing the wrong connectors (D10 and C11) my wiring diagram seems to be wrong, what pins should i check for power at? I am honestly stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Ive read through nearly every forum I can find

Been working a day or two every weekend on this truck for about a month and now it’s on the back burner while I find some motivation. 1997 Swap into an MJ. Was working fine until I decided to try and cut down the body harness on the XJ side. I'm wanting to eliminate the extra door plugs since it was from a 4 door and tidy up my interior when all said and done. If anyone has any tips or tricks or if you’ve done this before please chime in. What I can tell is when I removed the plug from the rear driver side it stopped the fuel pumps circuit. I didn’t realize it would do that since I thought the wire for the pump was strictly on the passenger side.

HELP!! In the process of putting my dash back in my 88’ mj. I completely gutted the interior to swap in a different dash and do the heater core. Must’ve forgot some wiring somewhere when putting the dash back in but I have no idea where. Trying to charge the battery, and when the tender is turned on this is what happens when I turn the key on and off. When the key is off, the ac compressor clicks. When the key is on the compressor stops clicking and the fuel light/cluster gauges pulse along with the seatbelt light and radio screen. And one of the circular relays under the dash starts clicking. Gauge cluster and climate control lights also won’t come on. Also does different stuff when I have the headlight switch pulled out. I’m thinking some kind of ground but like I said I’m lost. Everything seems to be plugged back in… Any ideas?? 😔

Hello to all. So I’m using a 1995 XJ engine in my mj. However, I just acquired a 1996 with some upgrades like power seats, power windows, ETC. I wanna use the seats and windows in my MJ project, but I’m scared to use the harness off the new XJ on the 1995 engine. My main question is can I use the 1996 harness on that 1995 engine? Or is there somethin crazy I don’t know?

Parts required from donor XJ: Overhead console (OHC) Sunvisors & clips (optional) OHC wiring harness (runs along passenger A-pillar) OHC mounting bracket & screw (only front most bracket required) Temperature sensor (located behind front bumper, in front of "frame") ________ After scoring a couple of pre97 XJ overhead consoles (OHC) from the parts yard, I decided that one could be modified to work in the cab of an MJ. Figuring this project had been done before, I spent hours reading through threads on here and NAXJA. Some of the info and even FSM wiring diagrams didnt match what I had, and theres even different versions of the OHCs to make it even more confusing. So I started this thread to compile my notes and document my process. This is a long one so grab a beer and take a seat. To start, I believe the pre97 XJ OHC was offered from 90-96. There are updated 97-01 OHCs that require OBD II to utilize all the extra computer features such as "average gas mileage" and "miles to empty". My documentation will deal with the older pre97 models. OHC IDENTIFICATION There are (at least) 2 different styles, and I do not know what year the break between them is. I had a 92 XJ Laredo years ago that had a "newer" style OHC for what its worth. The differences are the wiring for the lights. The "older" style OHC has 4 black wires that run from the front dome lights to the rear dome lights. The "newer" style OHC has 3 colored wires between the dome lights: black, yellow, and gray. The older style OHC is wired so that the rear dome lights would come on when the doors to the XJ were open, NOT the front lights. The newer style OHC has both front and rear dome lights come on with the doors open. Why does this matter? Because the OHC is too long to fit inside the cab of the MJ without being cut down, which means you have to get rid of the rear dome lights. If you have the older style OHC you will have to either rewire or swap the dome light fixtures if you want them to come on with the doors open. The newer style OHC you can simply cut the wiring to the rear domes and be done with it. Other minor differences between the 2 styles are that the older style has black covers over the bulb wiring, and removal of the covers shows a circuit board instead of the colored wires of the newer style OHC. Pics for reference, newer style on the left, older style on the right. For simplicity purposes I chose to use the newer style OHC for my install. WIRING HARNESS Let's switch gears for a moment and talk about the wiring harness for the OHC. In order to successfully do this swap you'll want to have the wiring harness that runs along the passenger side A-pillar. There are quick disconnects at the kick panel and the wiring extends all the way to the roof and to the sunvisors. Also be sure to snag the temperature sensor behind the bumper. Theres a couple different styles of sensors but mine looks like this: If you're planning on adding an OHC then swapping over to sunvisors with lighted vanity mirrors is an easy upgrade. From what I've seen the pigtails for the sunvisors are a single pink wire with a single thin, black connector, and never changed throughout all years of XJs. I have a nice set from a 98 XJ I am using, complete with airbag warnings. Whatever. Since I wired up 97 XJ power doors on my MJ, I wasnt going to make any attempt to wire up the keyless entry sensor/module, not to mention I didnt really want to open that can of worms. So I cut off the pigtails for the harness, which had black, green, tan, wires and a pink one on the OHC/keyless sensor end. The pink wire is spliced into the larger pink wire that powers the vanity mirrors so it has constant 12V power. I decided to crimp on an insulated quick disconnect to it in case I need easy access to power from the roof in the future. I'm thinking maybe wiring switches in the OHC eventually... WIRING DIAGRAM Here's where it gets confusing. There were (at least) 2 styles of wiring harnesses with completely different colored wires. I have seen several early 90s FSMs state the wiring for the harness is as follows: Pink A - dome lamps (12v?) Pink B - reading lamps (what's the difference?) Black/blue - temperature sensor Violet/green - temperature sensor Orange/black - illumination (connects to the dimmer) Blue/red - head lamps on (dims the display when the headlamps are on) Black/blue - compass ground White/pink - 12V Some individuals have stated they had a yellow wire that went to the doorjamb switch ground to activate the dome lights. My wiring harness was different. here's how I wired mine: CONNECTOR 1 Pink - constant 12V Black - ground Black/white - ground to doorjamb switch. The existing wire to the doorjamb switch was the same color, I simply spliced into it CONNECTOR 2 Orange/green - temp sensor Pink/blue - temp sensor Black/orange - ground White/black - ignition on 12V Orange/black - illumination. I left this unplugged. Blue - left unplugged. May be for headlights on If you did it right you should be able to plug in your OHC and sunvisors and have power.

I am new to the her community and decided to start my first project, a ‘90 MJ. I have spent numerous hours trying to figure out why the driver side taillights are working but the passenger side isn’t. The previous owner butchered up the whole rear lighting harness. So I grabbed one off of another MJ and spliced them together hoping it would fix the issue. It did not change anything. I checked fuses and they are fine. Checked my ground wire on the rear driver side and it’s okay. Any other ideas to look into? Any information helps.

1988 Comanche 4.0L. Wiper motor went out. Bought a new one. Through a series of stupid stuff I won't go into, the plugs were cut from both ends. Of course, careful notes were made, intentions were good, but I lost all that stuff. I've been trying to figure this out for months. What I know: From the wiring harness, I have White w/black stripe Green with black stripe Black Blue with white stripe Brown with black stripe On the motor, I have White Black Green Blue Red Black in each case is ground, so I put them together. In the Haynes manual, as I read it, from the harness I have: Green w/blk is power. it goes to the breaker White w/black goes to low Blue w/white goes to high Brown w/black goes to the park switch, and works with the green wire on that Black is ground Checking my motor with a 12v power supply, White runs the motor on low Red runs the motor on high Black is ground Which leaves green and blue. When voltage is applied to these, nothing happens. When I test with my meter, there is almost no resistance there. It seems like if you go low to low, ground to ground, and high to high, I am left with Green/Blk, Brown/Blk on the truck, and blue and green on the motor. Hooking it up either of those ways, I get nothing on low or intermittent, and it runs super slow on high. I have tried just about every combination of wires. I was able to get it to run on low only at one time, but now I have no idea what that combination was. I'm hoping someone has an aftermarket wiper motor with the same wire colors and can help me out, or maybe just someone that understands this better than I do. I have refreshed and modified all of my grounds, so it isn't that. Thanks for any help. If you have a picture of the factory harness with wire colors or a pic of an aftermarket motor with the harness and colors, that might help me figure it out.

Well I need some help figuring out how to wire these running lights... I have a 1990 mj that I am about 90% done with a 97 swap just basically buttoning up all the small issues now. I have the drive train and dash with harnesses out of a 2001 xj I left my mj rear harness and have been plugging wires figuring out what goes to what and have narrowed the majority of it all down I have my stop lights reverse lights brake lights and turn signals but for the life of me I can’t seem to figure out how to wire these damn running lights from the 2001 dash harness to the rear mj harness I wish now I would have just ran the xj harness back I feel as if it would have been less headache but yet here I am I know the mj “running lights” are the blue wire on the oval connecter and the br/YL wire coming off the xj dash harness is the equivalent to the xjs running lights but how is it supposed to be wired I tried running it off of the drivers and pass her sides but it just keeps popping fuses I need help! Pics of the truck where it started and where I’m at!

I have a new alternator to put into my mj - as soon as the weather warms up a bit. But I need a bit of insight into how the alternator hooks up to the wiring. This could be a stupid question, but here goes: The wiring diagram shows three wires connecting to the alternator. Looks like they go to battery, ignition, and instrument cluster. My jeep only has two wires actually connected at the alternator, battery and (I assume) ignition (since it will start) There is a third wire, but it is not connected to anything at the moment. I have not yet begun to explore the intricacies of the electrical system on this project, so I'll leave that for now. So my question relates to the non-battery wires. My new alternator is internally regulated and has connections for "field" and "stator" (along with the main battery connection). Which one would the instruments hook into? Since there does not seem to be electrical connectivity, when at rest, between the battery terminal and either the stator or field connection, how does the ignition switch get power? Do I hook the switch wire directly to the battery connection?

I am looking for a complete wiring harness and all the computers and sensors to go along with it. I am hoping someone is doing a swap and will have these parts leftover. The perfect sulotion would be an 87 auto wiring harness with all the fixings.

I'm diving into some preventative electrical work in my '88 Pioneer. I've already done the C101 elimenation, and i'll be going through and refreshing ground and haress connections. The other item i would like to include is a replacement of the fusible links with a fuse panel which is fairly simple. The only hangup i'm having is the load ratings for the factory fusible link. I've searched through the wiring manual for the 88 MJ and i cannot locate an amperage rating. One option would be to size the fuses based on the wire gauge for the circuit. This seems a bit risky to me given the already poor Renix electrical system design. The wire gauge may be overkill for one of the components in the system leaving me at risk for a short in component, but not enough current draw to blow the fuse. The other option is to add up the amperage draw for all components in those circuits, based on the component fuses, and using that value for the fusible link replacement rating. I'd rather not have to do that... Does anyone know the amperage raitings for the fusible links?

I've started designing a new chassis wiring harness for my truck; partially in preparation for a tdi swap and partially because I've grown to really like wiring and electrical systems and just want it all fresh. I see there's a green fusible link feeding power to the switch and there's two outputs that feed the "run" position (one also feeds the "acc" position.) By counting the fuse ratings on the circuits fed by these two I come up with 32 amps on the "run only" output and almost 90 amps on the "run and acc" circuit! Am I crazy or is that really high?! The next question would be are these two portions of the switch rated to carry different amounts... I believe this is all GM stuff btw.

Hello club, Prospecting a 87 4cyl standard mj that's priced right and in good shape,also a friend of mine has a really nice 01 xj4.0 auto with low miles and a damaged rear end, but everything is in good shape to swap over to the mj, i was wondering if theres any problems or thing to know when swapping everything from an xj to an mj i plan on taking everything including motor,axles,drivetrain, front end body swap,full interior, ecu wiring ect. Just looking for some tips before i make the purchases. Thanks anyone willing to give me some imput

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum so sorry if this has already been covered/asked elsewhere in these forums, but I'm still kinda learning how to navigate. But anyways I've got a 1992 4x4 cherokee loredo, and am in the market looking for a comanche, and I've came across quite a few comanches, but they are all pre-1991 and was wondering what would need to be done (modifications, fabrications, etc) and how hard it would be to swap in EVERYTHING from the cherokee (wiring, harnesses, transmission, t-case, H.O. motor) into the comanche?

I'm trying to resurrect a steaming pile of Eliminator from the dead. The wiring is an egregious mess. Like, someone literally rewired the dash harness using all the same color wire (red to be specific) by literally twisting wires together then loosely wrapping them with electrical tape. Some wires were soldered, some weren't...others joined with butt connectors! Hooray...please help me. I've replaced everything under the hood that could cause a no start condition with high quality Napa parts. Replaced grounds...distributor, coil, plugs, wires, sensors, relays. This is the last piece of the puzzle. 1991 Comanche Eliminator...5spd, 4x4...4.0L of course. I'm located in Lincoln, Nebraska and could really use some help.

my 86 was previously loved by some college student who did a 2.8 to a 2.5 swap i decided to replace the enire dash and not surprised at all almost every single wire in the dash have a terrible cheap splice done to them.... After replacing the dash and clicking everything back together now when i hit the brakes the dash lights come on with the brake lights, and the left turn signal doesnt work unless the lights are off or if i don't hit the brakes, but it still doesnt work after that just flashes the both rear lights, and the front left turn signal works though...my question is can i just rip the entire fuse box out for the interior and find one out of a same year or near same year cherokee? it doesnt appear anything was spliced in the engine bay so i wasnt sure.... ive done this before in my close to ancient trans am, but I'm not sure if for these things it would have to be engine specific, or if it would have to be out of a mj thanks

I am in desperate need of an ecu, full engine harness, and fuse panel for an 87 4.0L, 5speed, 4wd. If anyone is doing a part out on one of these PLEASE let me know. a rat ate through my harness, so my dog killed him, my clutch master blew out and spit all its fluid into the fuse panel...... lots of corrosion there, and then my ecu took a dump. HELLLLLP. LOL

Hello all! I posted a ways back about a new comanche I was lucky enough to find. Right now there is one extremely daunting task that I am debating turning over to a mechanic, but I wanted to stop by here first to see what you guys thought, because I trust this forum way more than most of the mechanics that would be giving me quotes. For instance, I spoke with one on the phone today that stopped me and said "I already know what the problem is. You don't have to say anything more. You need an entirely new wiring harness and need to re-wire everything. Going to run you about $2,400 and anyone that says they'll do it for cheap is going to ruin your car". So, obviously I'm doing everything I can to not pay someone $2,400 because that sounds insanely ridiculous, but my issue is that if I dive into this wiring situation alone, I'm afraid my Comanche may not be able to be revived. There are far too many wires in this car and not that much information on the process from beginning to end. So! Below are lots of pictures of my current wiring set up as well as a detailed description of the problems I'm experiencing. I will be as thorough as possible in hopes someone can guide me in the right direction. I'm not opposed to fixing it, as long as there is something i can reference. But if you guys think this kind of situation is better in the hands of a professional, I'm willing to turn this one job over to a mechanic, but would prefer to know what it is that needs to be fixed so I don't have people telling me it's going to be $2,400... List of problems: -Crossed wires cause the car to not start or turn off every once in a while. After messing with the wires, it will restart. This seems to be occurring around the main positive/negative battery wires. -No turn signals. They worked once, haven't worked since. -A/C turns on half the time, half the time it doesn't -Horn works 25% of the time, 75% it does not work -Windshield wipers are on and off, but seem to be working more consistently now -Some kind of wire crossing caused my last battery to drain extremely quickly -oil gauge does not work Annnd I think that's mostly it. A lot of on and off stuff. Just want to get everything consistently working. Any thoughts on best solutions are welcome, cheapest options exceptionally welcome! https://imageshack.com/i/ip089f27j https://imageshack.com/i/f0e06cb5j https://imageshack.com/i/hla6bc5dj https://imageshack.com/i/p5e193b2j https://imageshack.com/i/ez529218j https://imageshack.com/i/p446cd16j https://imageshack.com/i/km221dbdj https://imageshack.com/i/f0ceea38j

In this topic you will read about what I have done so far with my 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator Edition. I am simply making this topic because I like to read what other people have done and what their experiences are so I can learn from them. So if you have any questions or comments about what I have done let me know! I HAVE PICTURES!! :rotfl2: I bought it with 32,000 original miles. Exhaust----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flowmaster Delta Series Exhaust High flow cat . :MJ 1: . I had the cat and muffler welded together as well as a down pipe tip welded at the end of the exhaust The cat was then welded onto the flange by the bottom scrap bar that supports the transmission I had my exhaust/intake manifold gasket go bad on me so I replaced that and if anyone has questions on how to get to it just let me know. You do have to take the injectors off which I didnt know. I would also recommend a high quality gasket so you don't have to go through that long process again. Intake------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I bought a high performance oiled cotton air filter that you can clean with a solution. It has a warranty replacement. Good results and I like it. Here is the website: http://www.greenfilterusa.com/ :driving: Regularly clean the throttle plate. Tried the seafoam procedure to clean out the intake manifold to get the carbon out once. Id say its a good thing but do not do that often. Maybe every 50,000 miles Electrical---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Upgraded the grounds on the engine, firewall, and inside one of the main wiring harnesses. Refer to Cruiser54's instructions! Added LED lights in my dash. Pretty cool I think. 8) I spliced the brake lights to wire in a four wire trailer plug. I did not cut the original truck brake wire though. I actually carefully just cut the insulation off and then soldered the plug wires on. This way I will always have a complete wire section for my truck brakes just in case the soldering becomes bad. No headache! :group beer: I recently added a supplemental wiring harness for the headlights to get the full voltage from the battery. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P29X4G/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item This was definitely a good upgrade! 25% brighter lights for cheap. You could go one step further and buy new e-code bulbs and housings. I chose not too...yet. Old Lighting system with stock lights and wiring harness getting ~10 V: New wiring harness with stock bulbs: :rock on: LOTS of ground checking and such because of a low idle issue. You can find my experience in my signature........ Exterior--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Undercoating! As you can see I undercoated the bottom of the side panels just low enough where you cannot see if you were standing. I also coated part of my door jam so when I kick my feet off so no dirt gets inside my truck it won't scratch that surface. But where that wider coating is on top i guess you can say, is a black plastic cover that screws into those holes. So it covers the coating but I did it anyways. Painted my bumpers a nice black finish. I have a fiberglass cap on the bed. Wax and keep clean! :clapping: NEW TIRES and 2" Lift. BFG 31's with a 2" coil spacer and rear shackles. Interior------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I made my own cupholder! :yes: It is an interesting concept but it works AWESOME. I used foam from a couch cushion and cut it into the shape of the console. Then dug out the holes for the cups. I made the holes a little smaller because this puts side pressure on the cups when you put them in. Results? Drinks do not move at all Insulates the drinks and the cupholder itself is easily removable if not in use New poineer speakers in the door and side panels as well as a new pioneer radio which was a needed upgrade from my 25 year old speakers. Happy with the results. I can supply the model numbers if requested. 20% tinted windows Brakes------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- THE BEST UPGRADE :thumbsup: :wrench: Dual Diaphram Brake Booster from a 96 Cheerokee and new matching master cylinder. I actually wrote a DIY on this and just take a look. Twice the braking power of the stock system. I highly recommend this and this is a really clear writeup with a lot of views. http://comancheclub.com/topic/39437-1996-xj-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-conversion/ Cooling/Heating---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flushed the coolent system a few times to keep it clean. A problem a came into is that I cannot get the drain plug in the side of the block out. A 3/8 extension does not fit and that is what it looks like should be the right tool. I havent figured that out yet so I just use the petcock in the radiator. During this cold winter :fs2: ... My heat was not normal. Jeeps should be shootin out heat that will burn your skin (not really). But I was getting like 70 deg air or less. Not right. And my temp gauge was showing fine and everything was running normal. Both heater hoses were warm... Now both were warm so you wouldnt think the heater core was plugged but it was.. I reverse flushed the heater core a few times both ways and now I'm getting amazing heat. I still have that vacuum valve so I had to clamp an extra hose in order to reverse flush. That valve also stuck during the -30 deg weather and did not let coolant flow through the heater core. Any questions please ask. Update: My heat works great now. I replaced the heater control valve because it was leaking and I also back flushed my heater core which it what really made the difference. Misc.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did have issues with my Jeep not starting due to my bad CPS Did all of Crusier54's renix tips and tricks. He did a good job with those writeups and helped a bunch. :bowdown: I have been having idling issues with a low idle. Here is the link to the thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42581-renix-dead-spot-and-idiling-low/ Added a Permanent Fuel Pressure Gauge on the Fuel Rail. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12565-permanent-fuel-rail-pressure-gauge/ Upcoming projects (topic will be updating)------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buying a high quality gasket for that damn valve cover. It is always slowly leaking oil :fs1: COMPLETED Taking the clear coat off my rims and polishing and re-clear coating 4x4 conversion Again feel free to ask questions :waving:

My son installed a CD in my dash all seemed to work perfect. So I left my lights on, turned off ing. and the radio stayed ON. Turn on radio no lights, turn on lights ing. off = radio's ON.. again. HELP.. strange ?? lights hooked to radio.??

Hi All, I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2WD 2.5L 4-Cylinder. Manual AX5 transmission. I've done some minor transmission / clutch work on it with plenty of help and support from the forum. Generally, it runs fine (now). But... Recently it's been doing two strange things: Losing power (shutting off) at low speeds, normally when jarred or bumped. It starts right back up when this happens. Most often, this can be seen when it's parked and I start it, then release the parking brake. When the parking brake jolts, the truck loses power. I have to re-start it. Also, on occasion, it loses power at low speeds (parking lots, mostly) often on bumpy terrain. It always starts right back up, but for the moment when the power steering fails, it's no fun. Lurching / losing speed while driving. When driving anywhere from around 30 to 55, it sometimes suddenly slows down a little -- just a mile an hour or two -- but very quickly, sort of lurching a bit. I can normally compensate by pressing the gas pedal down further, then it just sort of evens out. It never gains speed while lurching, only loses speed. And most often right around 40 - 45 mph. It feels like it's either losing power or gas suddenly -- but the truck doesn't shut off of anything. I recently (several weeks ago) lost power completely (truck wouldn't start) and found out that the main battery cable was corroded and much of the insulation had rotted off many of the cables. I got the truck running again with some electrical tape and a new clamp for one of the battery terminals. I imagine the above problems are related to electrical issues, but don't know how to troubleshoot them. The battery cable itself is very complex -- lots of wiring in there going who knows where. I also on occasion have some odd electrical issues -- namely the windshield wipers behaving unexpectedly and the turn signals staying on until fiddled with. Anyone have electrical experience on this or a similar truck? Do these all sound like electrical issues? I'd love any advice, tips, feedback or whatever. Thanks much, this forum has always been a huge help.

Hello all, i bought my 1st comanche yesterday and all of the signals DID work except for the front left.. it would stay on continuously no matter what, aslong as the headlights were on, and the hazard lights wouldnt do anything... now today NONE of the signals work, and the front left still stays completely illuminated aslong as the headlights are on, and the hazards also still don't work, and now i have noticed the interior arrow lights no longer light up and no longer makes the clicking noise when you turn. Ive ripped right into the dash, check all of the relays, fuses appear to be good, etc if anyone can give me some helpful advice on how to get my signals working it would be greatly appreciated Thanks fellow Comanche owners!!

There is a thread on here some where that has the wiring diagram for when installing a HO XJ drivtrain and dash wiring in your MJ, it shows the wiring connection for the rear tail lights and fuel pump,