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RKTJeep

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About RKTJeep

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    Jeeper

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  • Location
    Upstate NY

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  1. I'm in the process of rebuilding the HVCA on my 88, R&R the Heater core and evaporator. I'm on a bit of a time crunch to get the truck reassembled. Since I won't need AC where I live for another 5 months, can I leave the compressor lines disconnected and still run the Jeep without damage. I'll cap off all the fittings to prevent contamination... I would think as long as I disconnect the clutch control, the compressor pully should always just free spin. This way I can drive the truck and clean/replace the AC system components at a later date.
  2. RKTJeep

    Sway Bar Sizing

    Late Update: I went to take some measurements for the bolt spacing on the sway-bar bushing mounts. I plan on making my own spacers/offsets. After comparing the setup in links you provided it looks like there are already drop brackets installed. See images below. This has me even more puzzled, if this is the case, since i thought i had finally found a solution to the probablem. Does anyone recognize these brackets? It would be nice to identify the lift that is on the truck. I'm to the point where I may borrow a go-pro and mount it underneath the truck to see if i can pin-point something...
  3. RKTJeep

    Sway Bar Sizing

    Your link sends me back to this page, might want to double check the hyperlink source.
  4. Several months ago i replaced the orginal front axle for one out of a 94 XJ. During the swap i replaced all front end bushings, ball joints, u-joints, and axle seals. I also installed a rough country adjustable track bar (The truck has an unknown lift that came with it). The front end was aligned right after the swap. After the swap i noticed a hard clunk when going around tight turns mainly switch backs, and when hitting bumps while turning. I had the mechanic that performed the alignment try to search for the cause, but he couldn't narrow it down. The one thing he did notice was that the sway bar had some witness marks at the bushings where it looked like it had been shifting side to side. When i got it home i disconnected the sway bar and took it for a ride, and the noice was gone. Thinking that this was an issue with the bushings binding i went and greased up all the sway bar bushings, put it back together, and the noise was back. Today while doing some electrical work i noticed that some of the grease had made its way onto the passenger side coil springs. I went and check the drivers side and there was grease on the frame rail and the road grime had been scraped away. So it looks like this issue may be with the sway-bar or sway-bar links. I did my research before performing the axle swap, but maybe i missed something. Do i need to get a different sway-bar for the 94 axle and/or different end-links? Driver's Side: Notice the vertical scrap on the frame, just above the sway-bar end-link. Passenger's Side: Notice the grease on the coil spring, above the sway-bar end-link.
  5. I'm diving into some preventative electrical work in my '88 Pioneer. I've already done the C101 elimenation, and i'll be going through and refreshing ground and haress connections. The other item i would like to include is a replacement of the fusible links with a fuse panel which is fairly simple. The only hangup i'm having is the load ratings for the factory fusible link. I've searched through the wiring manual for the 88 MJ and i cannot locate an amperage rating. One option would be to size the fuses based on the wire gauge for the circuit. This seems a bit risky to me given the already poor Renix electrical system design. The wire gauge may be overkill for one of the components in the system leaving me at risk for a short in component, but not enough current draw to blow the fuse. The other option is to add up the amperage draw for all components in those circuits, based on the component fuses, and using that value for the fusible link replacement rating. I'd rather not have to do that... Does anyone know the amperage raitings for the fusible links?
  6. So my HO replacement long block is finishing up at the shop next week (sooner than expected). I'm going through my parts list in a panic to get everything in order. I will be having a shop R&R the engine in the MJ. I currently don't have a garage (after a recent move), and I'm trying to make sure all my ducks are in a row to make the install as simple as possible to avoid additional labor charges. I'm building this truck for my self with no intentions of selling, so i am looking to do things right the first time. I would like to run a full 300 series stainless exhaust. But it looks like our options are limited. I have my eyes on the Borla head and front pipe, part number 17039, which is spec'd for the 93-97 XJ. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borla-17039-Stainless-Steel-Headers-/111037777514 I'm wondering if anyone has put it on an MJ? My plan would be to have the shop install this part of the system, then run a "dumped" exhaust (temporarily) until i can find a shop to bend me an full stainless cat-back system. Any idea if this will work, or will the system require extensive modification to get it that far? Thanks James
  7. RKTJeep

    Extremely Low Idle

    Cruiser, this is the first time i've taken a vehicle to a shop. It's unfortunate that i don't have a place to work on the truck, other than outside, where we just got 16" of snow this week. So the low idle was diagnosed as a faulty IAC. After replacing the IAC the engine idles right where it should on startup. The shop looked into the lifter engine noise further. They pulled the valve cover off and cranked the engine, they said there was plenty of oil making it to the top end. After that they removed the rockers and inspected the seating surfaces and said everything checked out. It's sounding like this may be a deeper problem. I'm going to keep driving it until late spring (or catastrophic failure) since i cannot leave my road with my 2wd car after any snowfall. In the meantime I am deciding what kind of rebuild or swap I want to do. I'm wary of the long block strokers available, I'm thinking a refreshed block working with a local builder will fit my needs better. I will also swap in an AX-15 while the engine is out. The auto shop i took it to quoted me $1,600 to perform an Engine, Transmission, and T-Case swap.
  8. RKTJeep

    Extremely Low Idle

    Just to give an update. I decided to replace the O2 sensor without checking the output the electrical circuits. There was no noticeable difference in idle upon startup. Unfortunately i did not have enough time to rewire the engine harness by removing the connector. I was in the process of moving from Alabama to Colorado and i needed the truck running so it could be loaded on a car hauler, and at the time it was running enough to get it loaded. Luckily it started up and had no problems getting it unloaded out in CO. My only problem now is that i don't have a garage to work on it our here. I've decided to break down and take it to a shop tomorrow, Something i've never done before. I'm going to have them trouble shoot the idle as well as what i presume to be a lifter tick/chatter. There was a slight tick when i first bought it, but it got worse after i changed the oil. I have a feeling the previous owner was running a higher weight oil. I switched to 10-30 since it would be seeing colder temps on Colorado Springs. At start up the oil pressure gauge takes about 2-3 seconds to shoot up to 60psi, once up to operating temp, pressure is around 20psi at idle, and does not exceed 40psi at higher rpms. I have a feeling the lower oil pressure is the reason for the lifter noise, but i'm concerned it is part of a deep underlying issue. If it's something major i hope it will make it through winter or at least until i can get access to a garage, where i can swap in a long block. I have no intentions of selling the truck so putting money into is not a concern, my goal is to make it a reliable vehicle so i can depend on it for my 50 mile commute as well as taking it on some trails up in the mountains.
  9. RKTJeep

    Extremely Low Idle

    I tried searching for the answer without much luck. Is it possible to test the o2 sensor?
  10. RKTJeep

    Extremely Low Idle

    I forgot about some of the connector cleaning. Simple and it's promising since the ground path improvements appeared to help the idle. Thank you!
  11. RKTJeep

    Extremely Low Idle

    I was able to get the TPS set properly. I found out that it's easier to get my probes around the rubber grommet if i push towards the connectors plastic, not the wire its self. Before getting the TPS set i decided to perform the ground wire modification for the sensors. The TPS ground was giving a reading of 1 ohm, right at the limit, (After the mod it read 0.2 ohm's) so i figured it was worth doing. I also put new terminals on my battery leads and i cleaned up the ground connection on the dipstick stud. After all this, the idle has improved slightly. I was able to start it without giving it any gas, and the idle improved as it started to warm up. I'm not really sure where to go from here. Is there a diagnostic test for the idle air control to verify that it's functioning properly?
  12. The MJ has had a low idle since i bought it. So here's the chain of event that got me to where I am now. Last night i replaced o-rings on my fuel injectors and the gasket on the valve cover. Everything went well and i went for a 15-20 minute drive to let it get up to temp and see how everything was running. I also put some seafoam in the oil with intentions of changing oil today. When i got back from the drive i pulled into the driveway and my idle was only at 200-300 rpm, which was very low for it being up to temp. I was able to get it into the garage and while looking it over i realized the MAP vacuum line was broken at the TB. I left it at that with intentions of repairing the line this morning. This morning I picked up my replacement vacuum harness and TB gasket. I pulled the TB off and, made the grave mistake of not marking the TPS. I decided to continue with cleaning the TB and IAC. I repaired the MAP vacuum line and reinstalled everything including the new vacuum harness. I set the TPS by aligning the sensor with "dirt" witness marks it left on the TB. I reconnected the negative terminal on the battery and measured my ground resistance at the TPS connector pin, the reading was 0.01. I decided to try and adjust the TPS by checking the voltage between wires A&B then B&C i would then manually adjust the sensor to get them to the 17% difference. However, I am not able to get my probes into the back of the connector. I'm worried about damaging the green rubber seal at the terminals. Since i couldn't get the TPS set i figured i could atleast give it a shot to see how it runs. I figured with a fresh TB and vacuum lines it should have improved slightly. Unfortunately that's not the case. I was able to get it to start by giving it a little bit of gas, but i would have to hold my foot on the pedal to get it to idle at 800 rpm, otherwise it drops down to 200-300 rpm. It looks like I'm worse off than i was before since I now have a mis-clocked TPS. I'd like to start by at least getting it adjusted properly, but i'm not really sure how to get my probes in there. Any suggestions, recommendations on where to begin tackling this? I'm going to clean up the engine block ground since i have not done that yet, I will update the results of that. Any help would be appreciated.
  13. RKTJeep

    Complete Shutdown at 65mph

    Yes it fatigued. I don't see any signs of overheating or melting of the insulation. Thanks for your help guys.
  14. RKTJeep

    Complete Shutdown at 65mph

    I found the problem. One of the fusible link wires has disconnected from the distribution block. It is a green to red link. What is the best way to replace the fusible link? I might have enough wire to solder it to another piece of wire and put a new eyelet on the terminal. Suggestions?
  15. RKTJeep

    Complete Shutdown at 65mph

    Thanks Don, this is what I was looking for. Does anyone have a schematic for the ignition wiring harness? I'd like to do some continuity testing prior to dropping the steering column.
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