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RKTJeep

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About RKTJeep

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    Jeeper

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    Upstate NY

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  1. Knowing what the correct part IS, is most the battle with a conversion. I posted a link to the Novak slave cylinder page, above (3/4"). Good luck with your research!
  2. Problem Solved: This evening Installed the original Master Cylinder that was used for the internal slave cylinder on the BA10-5 (stock). Since the stock one has a 5/8" longer rod (than the YJ MC) it gave me more than enough travel to disengage the clutch. No adjustable rod was necessary. I've included a photo of them side by side, the stock MC is on the bottom.
  3. Talking further with the support at Novak it sounds like the master cylinder that they include is for a YJ (~87-89) this makes me suspect that the pedal assembly is probably different which may mean that the master cylinder shaft may have a different length to account for different pedal travel distances. I just measured the old master cylinder rod to the center of the hole and it's about 3.75 in, the one from Novak is 3.125 in. Aside from that, there's almost no visible difference. From full extension to bottoming out the pedal on the floor, with the Novak MC, I get about .75 in. of travel at the MC Rod. Tomorrow I'll install the old MC, I'm thinking the additional .625 may be enough for full actuation.
  4. The Master cylinder appears to be a stock replacement for the original setup. I'm using Novak's external slave and a new external slave bell housing. The slave cylinder is in the link below, but it bolts directly to the housing without a bracket. https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit-hcr3/kit-hcra/ I went with Novak for convenience of not piecing everything together, searching for used parts. I also got a brand new transmission, transfer case rebuild kit and proper shafts to make it all work. Everything has has gone together fairly smoothly up to this point.
  5. I'm currently working on finishing up my AX-15 swap in my 88 Comanche. I went with a complete kit from Novak transmission, which has been good so far. However, I've encountered an issue with the clutch not fully disengaging. I've blead the clutch multiple times and made sure the Novak (3/4 bore) slave cylinder/piston is not bottoming out. Novak included a replacement master cylinder which appears to be the the same as the stock '88 (11/16 bore). I've measured the travel of the slave piston with the pedal fully depressed and I'm getting 0.718" of travel, this means that the throw-out bearing is only pushing in the pressure plate fingers 0.359". Which doesn't seem like enough to fully take the pressure off the clutch. I did install new carpet with the during this process but that may only be removing about 0.5" of pedal travel at most. I'm used to clutches disengaging within the first half of pedal travel so I would expect that last but to make or brake me. At this point it seems like either the pushrod of the mast cylinder is too short. Leading to a low clutch pedal, idk? I've tried to find information on the Luk clutch to see how much travel is needed to compress the pressure plate for full disengagement, but haven't had any luck. If anyone has some info or insight on this I would appreciate it. I have been in contact with Novak and they recommended bleeding and pushing the piston as far back as possible. Which I was skeptical of since I had already check for it bottoming out. I performed this today and it made no difference. I'll be calling them again tomorrow.
  6. I'm in the process of rebuilding the HVCA on my 88, R&R the Heater core and evaporator. I'm on a bit of a time crunch to get the truck reassembled. Since I won't need AC where I live for another 5 months, can I leave the compressor lines disconnected and still run the Jeep without damage. I'll cap off all the fittings to prevent contamination... I would think as long as I disconnect the clutch control, the compressor pully should always just free spin. This way I can drive the truck and clean/replace the AC system components at a later date.
  7. Late Update: I went to take some measurements for the bolt spacing on the sway-bar bushing mounts. I plan on making my own spacers/offsets. After comparing the setup in links you provided it looks like there are already drop brackets installed. See images below. This has me even more puzzled, if this is the case, since i thought i had finally found a solution to the probablem. Does anyone recognize these brackets? It would be nice to identify the lift that is on the truck. I'm to the point where I may borrow a go-pro and mount it underneath the truck to see if i can pin-point something...
  8. Your link sends me back to this page, might want to double check the hyperlink source.
  9. Several months ago i replaced the orginal front axle for one out of a 94 XJ. During the swap i replaced all front end bushings, ball joints, u-joints, and axle seals. I also installed a rough country adjustable track bar (The truck has an unknown lift that came with it). The front end was aligned right after the swap. After the swap i noticed a hard clunk when going around tight turns mainly switch backs, and when hitting bumps while turning. I had the mechanic that performed the alignment try to search for the cause, but he couldn't narrow it down. The one thing he did notice was that the sway bar had some witness marks at the bushings where it looked like it had been shifting side to side. When i got it home i disconnected the sway bar and took it for a ride, and the noice was gone. Thinking that this was an issue with the bushings binding i went and greased up all the sway bar bushings, put it back together, and the noise was back. Today while doing some electrical work i noticed that some of the grease had made its way onto the passenger side coil springs. I went and check the drivers side and there was grease on the frame rail and the road grime had been scraped away. So it looks like this issue may be with the sway-bar or sway-bar links. I did my research before performing the axle swap, but maybe i missed something. Do i need to get a different sway-bar for the 94 axle and/or different end-links? Driver's Side: Notice the vertical scrap on the frame, just above the sway-bar end-link. Passenger's Side: Notice the grease on the coil spring, above the sway-bar end-link.
  10. I'm diving into some preventative electrical work in my '88 Pioneer. I've already done the C101 elimenation, and i'll be going through and refreshing ground and haress connections. The other item i would like to include is a replacement of the fusible links with a fuse panel which is fairly simple. The only hangup i'm having is the load ratings for the factory fusible link. I've searched through the wiring manual for the 88 MJ and i cannot locate an amperage rating. One option would be to size the fuses based on the wire gauge for the circuit. This seems a bit risky to me given the already poor Renix electrical system design. The wire gauge may be overkill for one of the components in the system leaving me at risk for a short in component, but not enough current draw to blow the fuse. The other option is to add up the amperage draw for all components in those circuits, based on the component fuses, and using that value for the fusible link replacement rating. I'd rather not have to do that... Does anyone know the amperage raitings for the fusible links?
  11. So my HO replacement long block is finishing up at the shop next week (sooner than expected). I'm going through my parts list in a panic to get everything in order. I will be having a shop R&R the engine in the MJ. I currently don't have a garage (after a recent move), and I'm trying to make sure all my ducks are in a row to make the install as simple as possible to avoid additional labor charges. I'm building this truck for my self with no intentions of selling, so i am looking to do things right the first time. I would like to run a full 300 series stainless exhaust. But it looks like our options are limited. I have my eyes on the Borla head and front pipe, part number 17039, which is spec'd for the 93-97 XJ. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borla-17039-Stainless-Steel-Headers-/111037777514 I'm wondering if anyone has put it on an MJ? My plan would be to have the shop install this part of the system, then run a "dumped" exhaust (temporarily) until i can find a shop to bend me an full stainless cat-back system. Any idea if this will work, or will the system require extensive modification to get it that far? Thanks James
  12. Cruiser, this is the first time i've taken a vehicle to a shop. It's unfortunate that i don't have a place to work on the truck, other than outside, where we just got 16" of snow this week. So the low idle was diagnosed as a faulty IAC. After replacing the IAC the engine idles right where it should on startup. The shop looked into the lifter engine noise further. They pulled the valve cover off and cranked the engine, they said there was plenty of oil making it to the top end. After that they removed the rockers and inspected the seating surfaces and said everything checked out. It's sounding like this may be a deeper problem. I'm going to keep driving it until late spring (or catastrophic failure) since i cannot leave my road with my 2wd car after any snowfall. In the meantime I am deciding what kind of rebuild or swap I want to do. I'm wary of the long block strokers available, I'm thinking a refreshed block working with a local builder will fit my needs better. I will also swap in an AX-15 while the engine is out. The auto shop i took it to quoted me $1,600 to perform an Engine, Transmission, and T-Case swap.
  13. Just to give an update. I decided to replace the O2 sensor without checking the output the electrical circuits. There was no noticeable difference in idle upon startup. Unfortunately i did not have enough time to rewire the engine harness by removing the connector. I was in the process of moving from Alabama to Colorado and i needed the truck running so it could be loaded on a car hauler, and at the time it was running enough to get it loaded. Luckily it started up and had no problems getting it unloaded out in CO. My only problem now is that i don't have a garage to work on it our here. I've decided to break down and take it to a shop tomorrow, Something i've never done before. I'm going to have them trouble shoot the idle as well as what i presume to be a lifter tick/chatter. There was a slight tick when i first bought it, but it got worse after i changed the oil. I have a feeling the previous owner was running a higher weight oil. I switched to 10-30 since it would be seeing colder temps on Colorado Springs. At start up the oil pressure gauge takes about 2-3 seconds to shoot up to 60psi, once up to operating temp, pressure is around 20psi at idle, and does not exceed 40psi at higher rpms. I have a feeling the lower oil pressure is the reason for the lifter noise, but i'm concerned it is part of a deep underlying issue. If it's something major i hope it will make it through winter or at least until i can get access to a garage, where i can swap in a long block. I have no intentions of selling the truck so putting money into is not a concern, my goal is to make it a reliable vehicle so i can depend on it for my 50 mile commute as well as taking it on some trails up in the mountains.
  14. I tried searching for the answer without much luck. Is it possible to test the o2 sensor?
  15. I forgot about some of the connector cleaning. Simple and it's promising since the ground path improvements appeared to help the idle. Thank you!
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