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    Key Largo, FL

eric.toupin's Achievements


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  1. Hi All, I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2WD 2.5L 4-Cylinder. Manual AX5 transmission. I've done some minor transmission / clutch work on it with plenty of help and support from the forum. Generally, it runs fine (now). But... Recently it's been doing two strange things: Losing power (shutting off) at low speeds, normally when jarred or bumped. It starts right back up when this happens. Most often, this can be seen when it's parked and I start it, then release the parking brake. When the parking brake jolts, the truck loses power. I have to re-start it. Also, on occasion, it loses power at low speeds (parking lots, mostly) often on bumpy terrain. It always starts right back up, but for the moment when the power steering fails, it's no fun. Lurching / losing speed while driving. When driving anywhere from around 30 to 55, it sometimes suddenly slows down a little -- just a mile an hour or two -- but very quickly, sort of lurching a bit. I can normally compensate by pressing the gas pedal down further, then it just sort of evens out. It never gains speed while lurching, only loses speed. And most often right around 40 - 45 mph. It feels like it's either losing power or gas suddenly -- but the truck doesn't shut off of anything. I recently (several weeks ago) lost power completely (truck wouldn't start) and found out that the main battery cable was corroded and much of the insulation had rotted off many of the cables. I got the truck running again with some electrical tape and a new clamp for one of the battery terminals. I imagine the above problems are related to electrical issues, but don't know how to troubleshoot them. The battery cable itself is very complex -- lots of wiring in there going who knows where. I also on occasion have some odd electrical issues -- namely the windshield wipers behaving unexpectedly and the turn signals staying on until fiddled with. Anyone have electrical experience on this or a similar truck? Do these all sound like electrical issues? I'd love any advice, tips, feedback or whatever. Thanks much, this forum has always been a huge help.
  2. Hi all -- just following up: I wasn't able to get ahold of synchromesh or redline at any location near me. I swapped to 10W30 Mobile 1 full synthetic engine oil. There's a significant improvement, much worth the change, not a miracle. Shifting isn't "buttery" but I'm able to shift from first to second and second to third, at reasonable rpms, with no grabbing or the soft grinding I was experiencing. Certainly long-term drivable. Before the switch, I could not downshift hardly at all from third to second, unless the vehicle was basically at a standstill. That, too, has improved -- to the point where I can engine brake using 1st or 2nd with a smooth shift. It still soft-grinds if I try to shift from speeds of above 25 or so into first or second.
  3. Thanks for all the replies. I'll need to take a look at grabbing a gear puller / press. Mvusse, you mentioned not using GL5. I just checked and mine is GL5. It's been in the transmission for about a week now, I guess. How bad is that? I can probably change to 10W30 Synthetic motor oil tomorrow. Thanks,
  4. Thanks for the replies. I replaced my transmission fluid with new 75W90. Is there a thinner oil that would work better? There was definitely not this sort of soft grinding before the original clutch issue, so that's something I guess. Yes, I am a novice. Installation of the clutch kit, master and new lines is the only real mechanical work I've ever done on a car / truck. That seemed mechanically simple, although messy, time consuming and a general pain. Is rebuilding it myself unrealistic? I feel like with a detailed manual I'd be ok, but of course don't know because I've never tried. How long might this take? It seems like if I could just buy a rebuilt AX5 for $750 that might be cheaper than the $100 - $150 an hour I'd pay a mechanic to rebuild it. But really I'm more interested in learning how to do it myself. My AX5 is older. So yes, probably the crimped nut PIA.
  5. Hi All, I installed a clutch kit, new master cylinder and new hydraulic lines a few weeks ago in my 1990 Jeep Comanche 2.5L. The clutch had frozen on me (all fluid drained out of a busted slave) while highway driving. I had to force it into a couple gears to get home (drove in third a lot of the way). That was before I knew what the problem was. With help from this forum and elsewhere, I figured out it was the slave and made the installs listed above. All fixed. Mostly. So now the transition between first and second, and to a lesser degree second to third, are a little rough. Already bled the clutch, and it seems to be disengaging fully. The symptoms are worse in cold weather (FL, so 60's is cold.) And they alleviate a lot once the truck is warmed up. Down shifting is considerably more rough. It's not terrible now, just to the point where I can feel some very soft grinding sometimes -- not audible yet. Very drivable, but will need to get fixed sometime. So anyway I think the transmission is either naturally beginning to fail, or my episode driving with a failing clutch broke it or took it over the edge. From what I can find online, I'm thinking maybe the synchros or whatever they're called are failing. So enough backstory -- the question is does anyone have experience with transmission rebuild kits? And AX5 rebuilds in specific? Could this fix the problem? How long does it take? After just doing the clutch kit, I feel like I can pull / replace the transmission pretty easily, but have no idea what to expect from the rebuild itself. Any experience or tips would be really appreciated. Thanks much,
  6. Thanks again for the help / pointers, all. All of the new parts are installed and I'm back on the road with a nice responsive clutch.
  7. I must have an AX5. The slave cylinder matches (inside diameter) the old one I'm pulling out. They're virtually identical, although the old one is ugly. The kit was ordered via NAPA for my make / model, 1990 Comanche 2.5L. The transmission with bell housing is just over 15", to Jim's comment, although there is a one inch (approximately) plate between the transmission and tail housing -- unless I'm mistaken as to what that thing is. Picture below. Slave appears to be the right part, anyway, after removing the quick release. Thanks, all!
  8. Hmm. It could be an AX5, I guess? I'm not sure how I thought I'd established it was an AX15. I don't really know the difference, just needed to know (and thought I'd figured it out at some point) in order to follow instructions for parts replacement. It's a five speed manual on a 2.5L, looks identical to several images returned by a google search for AX15. But similar to some returned by AX5, too. How can I tell for sure?
  9. I've answered my own question on this one -- or rather, the guy at NAPA did. It's a quick release fitting, and it doesn't fit in my transmission (ax-15) without being loosed and re-fitted on the other side. The clutch hydraulic line that's sold for my jeep isn't suited for the quick release fitting, either, so the solution is basically to remove the quick release with a flare-nut wrench and attach a normal hydraulic line fitting which is available for cheap at an auto-parts store.
  10. Hi All, I've replaced the master cylinder and am in the process of installing a new clutch kit and replacing the slave cylinder (concentric bearing) in my 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2.5L. The replacement slave has a big, black fitting on the end of the line that should lead to the master cylinder. The other line is a bleeder that looks normal. The black fitting doesn't just pop off (twists freely, but won't come off with plenty of force), and it has some weird metal stuff on the inside that makes me think it's a working part, not just a cap. But the line won't fit through the hole in the transmission bell housing where it's supposed to. I'm wondering if anyone else has come across a slave that has this weird fitting, and how I can get it to fit in the bell housing. Pictures below. Here's the new slave cylinder (concentric bearing) that goes inside the bell housing. Here's a closeup inside that black fitting. And in the top right there is the hole that line needs to feed through, but it's too big with th black piece. Any help / experience with this issue would be really great. Thanks!
  11. Thanks a ton for the tip. A picture would be really useful. I'm fairly new to the guts of cars / trucks, so it's easier to put an eye on it. Thanks!
  12. That's what I figured, although it doesn't seem to pop right off. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Should make better sense when I see the new hydraulic lines. Should I be cleaning up the inside of the bell housing / pressure plate area while I've got everything off? Maybe bolts and whatnot, too? Not sure if that really matters. It's very grimy all around:
  13. Jim & Biotex: Worked perfect. I didn't have a long enough extension to get the breaker back behind the tranny, but I picked one up this morning and the bolt came loose with only a little fuss. Thanks a ton. Another question: I just noticed that the slave (concentric bearing or whatever) I bought has some different fitting than the slave that's in there. Or at least it appears to. I haven't been able to disconnect the slave that's there yet -- can't get at it and it's on super tight. Was going to wait until I could disconnect / lower the tranny some. Anyway, here are some pictures: Old slave (still in there): Then the new one: I can't figure where the black plastic cylinder would connect. The interior is not threaded, etc. Thanks for all the answers, getting there bit by bit!
  14. Hi All, Have found this forum really useful so far. I'm in in the process of installing a new clutch kit / master cylinder for my 1990 2.5L 4 cylinder, 2WD. I've removed the driveshaft, drained the transmission fluid, removed the crossmember and disconnected all the various gadgets from the transmission. The bolts holding the bell housing to the engine were seized pretty fierce. I have all but one bolt on the transmission broke free (loosed, or however you say that), although I tightened them back up once I got them to break free. There's only one remaining, and I can't for the life of me get it. It's counter-clockwise one bolt from the topmost bolt, 18mm, and has what I believe is the timing sensor cable clip attached to it which makes it hard to get at. I cannot get a breaker bar on it, and all I can fit in there is a standard 18mm wrench (from the top) which I can only get to fit in the space one awkward way. It's not a great grip and even if it was, I'm not sure I could break it with that wrench. I've tried about a million angles of attack with every tool I can scrounge. I've blasted all the bolt heads and visible nuts with PB Blaster several times (only way I was able to loose the first few) but still no luck. For the life of me I can't get a good angle on it. Is using a torch the next step? I read here: http://www.carforum.net/routine-preventative-maintenance/5506-how-remove-rusted-seized-bolts.html that I should heat up the nut, not the bolt, but am not sure if I can heat the metal that the transmission nut screws into safely -- that's the engine, as far as I can tell -- seems iffy. Any help / tips would be much appreciated. Thanks,
  15. Awesome. Very useful replies. I'll take a look at the external kit and see if I can find a floor jack, too. Thanks,
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