DesertRat1991

Which rattle can paint did you use for the bumper? Is that a semi-flat finish?

Nice truck! Welcome aboard!

Well, it was $200 extra they wanted, not $200 OTD. You won't escape the metal prep fees. But I agree, starting the process with a NOS bumper would be crazy because you're already in too deep. One interesting thing to think about is that if NOS black bumpers go for $600-$700, how much do you guys think a NOS chrome bumper would sell for? ...assuming one magically fell out of the sky. Probably a bit more, right? So, maybe $800? Now compare that number against a restoration quote on a junkyard core. Gotta look local. Shipping fees would be a budget killer. These are the guys that I found here in town: http://www.cmf-capitalmetalfinishing.com/ Yup. Maybe when done.

Honestly, bumper prices seem to have hit the tipping point where the labor to restore a used bumper to like-new condition is the same money (or cheaper) as buying NOS. The economics of waiting YEARS for the opportunity to pay $700 for a bumper don't really make sense. The bumper below was blasted and straightened for $300. They returned it straight as an arrow. Bare metal, no body filler. It would have been another $100 for powder coat or $200 for chrome (but I'm just gonna prime and rattle can it). Try talking to the local metal refinishers directly -- the guys the bodyshops go to. They have the skilled metal workers and the chrome tanks.

CC is the better technical resource, but parts are too scarce to turn your nose up at fbook. Seems like the most prolific breakers don't post here at all.

Looks like it should get the job done. Not a bad price for a bar with a frame-side flex joint. On my setup the flex joint was a costly add-on which totaled out to more than that Core4x4 kit.

Step 1, check craigslist. People give away stock trackbar assemblies for free. Trying to salvage this situation may not be worth the time and effort. If I HAD to salvage this, I would cut through the rubber grease boot and hacksaw the shaft from underneath the bracket. Then tack weld a piece of scrap to the stub that could be used to hold it steady while removing the castle nut. Then clist or junkyard for a replacement track bar. Or, not do any of that, toss the whole thing in the trash and upgrade to a double shear assembly.

$300 would be my limit

What is the bore size of the intake manifold on a 91-95 HO motor?

Nice truck!

That stalk part number doesn't look familiar. The Mopar CC kit instructions call out 56004595 for the stalk which can be found on ebay for $15. I wasn't interested in paying $100 for an on/off switch. Here's the thing about the stalks -- it seems like they only made stalks with markings for CC+Delay wipers and No CC+No delay wipers. Couldn't find one with the right markings for CC+No delay wipers. So if you install a CC stalk without delay wipers, it will still work, but the wiper markings won't be useful. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Cruise-Control-Windshield-Wiper-Arm-Lever-Switch-for-Chevy-Truck-Pontiac/371109667956?hash=item5667dc2474:g:gTkAAOSw3qVca8Mt At the time, Team Cherokee had the best price on OEM actuators. Looks like they still have some: http://teamcherokee.com/cruise-control-vacuum-servo-assembly-oem-cherokee-comanche-1991-1996/ And no that's not the right cable. I suggest hitting the junkyard to find the right cable because you'll also get the loop bracket that secures the cable to the coolant reservoir.

Great lookin truck! Welcome aboard!

I don't think there is supposed to be an o-ring there. I recall that junction being a moderate press-fit. Either way, I pulled the tube, smeared on high-temp silicone and stuck it back in. Not a leak since.

Check it out: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223476950976 Good luck!

Got started cleaning up the D44. Found a trac-lock inside which is interesting because it doesn't jive with the p/n on the tag. Tag is for a non-LSD. Gears were in good shape. Got a coat of primer on till I can circle back.

Got on the schedule last week and will have the truck back by this weekend? That's a helluva turnaround for a full paint job. If you remove the rear window trim, do so carefully. Those are hard to come by these days. You may need to re-use it.

What a mess. It could be spraying out of your dipstick tube if your PCV/CCV system is clogged causing pressure to build up in your crank case. Can't say for sure if you have PCV or CCV in your '86. Things get kind of fuzzy in the years around the transition from carb to TBI. It could also be a very small drip that's just being blown around by the engine fan. Some tips: 1) Hose everything down with degreaser. 2) Check the crankshaft ventilation system for clogs. 3) Observe valve cover, breather lines, dipstick, filter and front crankshaft seal for signs of leakage.

This the same stud Matt removes in the video below. You should be able to back it out.

Interesting design on the Metal Cloak arms... it's not a quite a heim joint. Something they call it a "fusion ball" instead. Never used them myself. Core 4x4 and IRO are two examples of adjustable arms that use standard press-fit rubber bushings: https://www.core4x4.com/product/front-control-arm-set-tj-lj-xj-mj/ https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-heavy-duty-front-adjustable-control-arm-set-0-65-lift.html

^ What he said. Measure if you want to be certain. Also, in stock form Cherokees and Comanches don't use the same length rear shocks. So when you look at a kit spec'd for a Cherokee with [X]" of lift, that doesn't mean it will fit a Comanche with the same amount of lift.

That D44 out of Phx just arrived at it's new home in Tucson! Bonkers, it's true what they say -- not all heroes wear capes. Thanks brotha..!

I agree that the maintenance schedule is more important than what you put in. Especially if the truck sees offroad use or temperature extremes. Engine: Mobil1 10w30 Filter (4.0L): Wix 51085 Clutch and Brakes: ATE 200 MT: Redline MT-90 Xfer Case: Dex III (any) Diffs: Mobil1 75w90

Thats unfortunate. But we couldn't have warned him any harder if we tried. Looks like he's having fun though, which is what matters most. Great progress on the before and after shots! When it goes in for paint might be a good idea to have them lift off the bed and rustoleum the frame rails and underside of the cab to save you future headaches.

Hmm. I recall ending up with 24" between shock mounts when puttting those leafs in, and ended up going with a 17"-28" shock. A 26" shock would be cutting it a bit too close for my tastes. But every truck sits a bit different. Gotta measure. YMMV. What shocks do you run in the rear?

^Yes OP, tells us more about your lift and tire setup. Which kit? And how much lift do you have now?