DesertRat1991

Dang... author of the 2nd oldest Pub thread ever.... Certified O.G.

What problem did you encounter? I actually went with 4.10T gears specifically because I came a across a smokin' deal on a 3.73 & under Eaton e-locker. Been operating flawlessly since 2019. I would agree that, outside of race applications, I don't think there are any downsides at all to running thick gears.

Front skid plate: Transfer case skid plate: SWB gas tank skid plate:

Christmas comms upgrade. Scored a nice black friday deal on Midland's 50w GMRS and just got a moment to get everything installed. Haven't decided where I want to permanently mount the mic holder yet so it's just dangling from a hook for now. Great results so far! Making contacts +40mi away through a local repeater. Sure beats the litttle handheld I had been using on the trails.

That short sloping hood is giving me Nissan hardbody vibes.

The ring & pinion has been mentioned, and the rebuild kit for the Trac-Lok LSD, but you should also grab a Master Install Kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10997268&cc=1181584&pt=2224&jsn=10607

Mine fires like a steel bear trap. I honestly don't trust the assembly not to damage itself so it's become second nature to ride the pedal home with my foot every time I start the truck. I've done a fair amount of wheeling on inclines and never needed to use the parking brake the way OP is proposing but... if you really needed the assist, couldn't you just lock the parking brake at like 25% so it drags slightly, apply enough torque to get yourself moving, then release the parking brake AFTER you are underway in 1st gear? Not simultaneously. Seems like you are over thinking this.

Priming the fuel system helps. My MJ might sit for a week or more. Before a cold start I'll turn the key to position 2 then off again a few times. You'll hear the fuel pump spin up each time. Then, turn the key all the way and she starts right up. She'll start just fine without doing this but it does crank longer.

I feel like MJs are inherently noisy offroad. The unibody flexes, dirt gets in between the leaf springs and the tailgate assembly sounds like a tin can full of rocks right behind the driver's head. It's part of the charm of wheeling an antique vehichle.

Lookin good!

Never seen pictures install pics before. Very interesting to see that the winch mounts "feet back" which would put the bolts under tension during a pull. These days, that is generally accepted as the worst way to mount a winch. Between this, the tiny winch capacity and the plastic "gap filler" pieces you can start to see how there was a tremendous opportunity for sturdier aftermarket solutions.

There isn't really a direct relationship between "lifted" and "stiff." Suspension requires tuning just like every other automotive system. It's just a math problem that needs solving. That said, it took hundreds of engineers and millions of dollars to ensure a well-balanced and comfortable ride as delivered from the factory. In the aftermarket, few people actually tune their suspension. They just bolt stuff on and expect peak performance. If you want a really nice ride, take it to a shop that understands weights, measures and geometry to get it sorted out. An offroad chasis builder might have someone who knows what they are doing.

FYI... the J10 guys have figured this out. Sharing here just as an example of what's possible. Specs are 3" tubing, 20awg, CNC bent. They ship with some assembly req'd (last photo). Photo credit to the dude below:

Much respect for looking into this. That embedded metal plate always seemed like overkill for a trim piece to me, but I guess the threaded studs probably made for quicker assembly line installation. One alternative to consider would be to mold that vertical wall a little thicker and sink a t-nut into the outboard side. Then, the end user would just need to run a bolt and washer through from the inboard side to install.

That looks great! And not far off what I paid about 6yrs ago. A worthwhile investment for a part that could last another 35 years.

Glad to hear! Guess I'll update too... my '91 has the removable cups with the threaded stud. I was able to remove the cup, pop out the OEM bump stop and replace it with: Daystar KJ09101BK. Then just screwed the cup back into place. The Daystar bump was actually a little to long for my application but it was easy to cut for a custom fit.

Your entire suspension geometry is off. That shackle angle is already very steep. If you move to shorter shackles 1) the leafs may not be long enough to reach at all or 2) you will increase your risk of shackle inversion. Probably time for a personal cost/benefit analysis on this project. It'll take a lot of work, plus parts you don't have, to get anywhere near stock specs. For a clean grocery getter, you could probably find a less modified rig to use as your base project. For a trail beater, well... that's where it gets interesting. You say it rides good on 35s. Ok then. At this point, it might be easier to recut/reshape the wheel wells with a saw so the axle LOOKS centered, then fab up some sheet metal fender flares and call it good. Hit the trails and enjoy the build as-is.

Oh my.... Can we get a rearview shot of the axle/leafs? Were the spring perches on that axle relocated to proper MJ width?

You are describing a positraction LSD. Four springs and t-shaped plates. The OEM Trac-Lok diff has no such parts. I'm guessing the shop replaced your OEM Trac-Lok with an aftermarket LSD. This means you are barking up the wrong tree with your parts search. Start by looking for any identifying part numbers on your diff casing to ascertain the maker then try your parts search again.

Just about everything that I relayed here regarding GSC-571 was communicated to this community directly by General Springs. They had a membership account and made several posts in the group buy thread. Anyone is welcomed to perform their own research. There is no discrepancy in what the specs were. Anyone claiming that 97-555 or -571 are designed to provide lift is also suggesting that they are being misrepresented by General Springs on their website which indicates direct replacement, stock height. Can you provide anything in writing from GS to back that up? That is very important for buyers to know. We can agree that if you go from 35y/o sagging OEM leafs to a brand new pair of 97-571 that you will likely see a lift compared to where you started due to the extra leaf, thicker pads and fresh arch. I have no info on current availability of GSC-571.

Full disclosure for new members. In the past, GS has offered 3 different part numbers to the CC community. P/N 97-555: Direct replacement for the OEM 3+1 pack. Rated at 1200lbs. You can order these on their website. P/N 97-571: Direct replacement for the OEM 3+2 pack. Rated at 1700lbs. Same free arch as 97-555. You can order these on their websote. P/N GSC-571: Modified 3+2 pack that included military wrap on the front eye and an extra 1/2" of free arch. Rated at 1700lbs. These were never publicly listed on the GS website. They were offered in 2 different group buys to CC members in 2013 and again 2017 so quite a few of us have them. You could also call and special order them. These are the springs that could provide *up to* 3" of lift over a clapped out OEM 3+1 pack. This is why you are getting mixed feedback on lift. It depends on which PN the member purchased and the type/condition of ther old springs. The other important note is that neither currently listed offering is actually designed to provide lift. As for performance, GSC-571 rides and hauls well, but it doesn't flex worth a damn offroad. If articulation is a main concern then 97-555 would be a better bet. Your choice of shocks will also have a huge impact on your ride quality.

OEM Michelin from 1991. Still holding air. Side note: I searched for 195/75R15 on Tire Rack and got ZERO results. I don't think it's made anymore.

Hauled off +900lbs of tree trunks in my short bed. The metric ton leaf packs from Geneal Springs just laughed and shrugged. Plenty of clearance left.

I got a nice result working with a metal refinisher to straighten a bumper. They usually have experience doing restoration work for the hotrod community. They know how to patch, stretch and shrink metal and can also handle powder coating or chrome dipping. Bodyshops just want to turn and burn insurance work. What you really want is a restoration. Strip, straighten and refinish.