DesertRat1991

Installing another 12V socket is the best option. But, can your GPS be charged via USB? I have a 2-port adapter similar to this riding in my 12V socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SKHZX4/ref=twister_B0759QFBLF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I think they make them with up to 4 ports, but they have to share amperage. So far, the 2-port has been good enough to keep 2 phones charged up with GPS/Wifi turned on. When offroad, it charges my phone and Garmin just fine.

I'm down in Tucson. Definitely looking forward to getting out more once the weather cools down.

If you like the outdoors: Hit up the Grand Canyon, Sedona, and Moab. While in Utah, swing by Canyonlands, Arches and Bryce Nat'l Parks. A lot of people fly-in and rent an RV to see all the sites. Plenty of ancient history out here to explore and experience first hand. Cliff dwellings, cave painti gs, petroglyphs, etc in their natural settings.

I like it. It will suit the RTT crew well. Raising it higher just means worse gas mileage, less overhead clearance and a higher C.o.G.

Interesting... never seen one of these before. Is it designed to mount with the hook hanging down (like the front hooks)? My first impression is that kinda seems like a bad idea.

FYI -- A bunch of MJs are getting together in Moab next month: https://www.facebook.com/events/309047526412548/?ti=cl

Dolly or tow bar:

One example: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/whatchall-think-24-inch-light-bar-install-172457/

This is great. I love how this build started with "my wife asked for a dependable winter vehicle" and ended up long armed, on super duty axles and 37's. OP -- has your old lady caught on yet...??

Smittybuilt XRC

The image below is very old (and very low res). It's a scan of a bill I got from a dealership once upon a time. I hold on to it because it marks the point in my life where I stopped paying other people to service my vehicles and started buying my own tools instead. FYI -- The throttle body in a '94 e36 is right on top of the engine in plain view. This took no effort at all.

Have you checked your castor and pinion angles lately? In both your before and after shots your spring is bowed forward. That's usually a big red flag that your suspension geometry is off which could explain the interference issues you were having. The concern here is that you didn't actually fix the root cause of the problem so it's just going to cause you headaches elsewhere. Check to make sure your springs are properly seated/clamped, then make sure the axle is centered forward/back and left/right, then check your castor and pinion angles to make sure the axle is rotated properly with your spring seats pointed in the correct direction. These angles can be modified by adjusting the lengths of your upper and lower control arms. The other half of the problem is that your sway bar end links are too short. In the last photo, your sway bar arm looks about parallel to the ground. It should be pointed up at 10-15 degrees. In your current configuration, the sway bar arm is pointed directly at the bowed spring in the worst possible way (minimum clearance). One tool can help you clear up both of these issues: Dial Gauge. Lastly, consider spinning your upper shock mount adapters 90 degrees so that they are perpendicular to the lower shock mounts. At rest, the bottom of the shock is positioned just forward of the top mount. Think about that. In your configuration, it means you're loading that upper bushing in an awkward fashion at rest. If you spin the mount 90deg, the shock will be able to "swing" forward to back as the axle moves though its arc of travel. The bottom mount then keeps you covered for any inboard/outboard flex that is needed. Why bind a bushing when you can swing freely instead, right?

Eventually, the clutch packs will begin to exhibit signs of wear. Meaning the engagement becomes less aggressive and the Trac-Lok begins to function more like an open diff at all times. If you begin to notice an uptick in open-diff behavior (one wheel spinning under low traction conditions), this can be a sign that it's time to replace your clutch packs. Your maintenance interval can vary based on your driving style, but all clutch pack style LSD's eventually wear out. This is not the kind of failure that will leave you stranded, so don't worry yourself too much -- like I said, it just slowly defaults to open diff. To replace the discs, you will need to pull the axle shafts, diff carrier, remove the spider gears and swap out the clutch discs which can all be done with basic tools. You don't typically need to have your gears re-set after doing this job. Thanks. I've got some new u-joints on the way so I'll check that out next time I'm under there.

NorCal or SoCal? What's your budget and how far are you willing to drive?

1) I moved up to 5/8 u-bolts on the D44 and can confirm that 1/2" D35 u-bolts and 5/8 D44 u-bolts both fit into the +91 plates just fine. But a test fit using the older two-part plates from an '86 yielded interesting results. The 5/8 u-bolts were a tight fit through the primary plate, but they made. However, the holes in the reinforcement plate would not line up. The holes in the reinforcement plate would need to be oblonged to fit 5/8 D44 u-bolts. I see now why this issue gets so muddled. 2) No info. 3) In my case, the stock driveshaft barely fit with about ~3.5" of lift in the rear. The truck is totally driveable on the street, but I feel the fit is too close for comfort off-road. I have about 1/4" of slip yoke showing. I'd feel better if it was around 3/4-1" so I'm planning to shorten it. Actually, I'd love for someone to post a pic of how much driveshaft engagement these trucks are supposed to have when on the ground at stock ride height. Haven't been able to find that spec online so I actually don't know how far off the fit is. 4) Trac-Lok is a fine system with a good reputation among those who know it's not a locker. The main down side is the maintenance that it requires every ~25-30k miles which works out to about $100 bucks and a half day of work for a DIYer. Both TrueTrac and Trac-Lok provide improved traction, but they work differently. A TT does nothing for most of its life (open diff) and only engages to transfer torque when it detects a loss of traction on one wheel. Even then, there are conditions where it fails to do its job. The TL system is engaged all the time (power to both wheels) and is designed to slip when going around corners. It's always working and has wear components. Both do their jobs transparently, neither is infallible. If what you really want is a locker, don't get either because you will be disappointed. If you put a lot of miles on your truck, get the TT to save yourself on maintenance costs. The toughest call is if you found a D44 with a TL already installed. For a weekend cruiser that doesn't see much off-road use, I'd say go ahead and rebuild it with confidence.

AC is bottom center in the diagram. I'm not sure exactly what page that diagram is on, but anyone needing manuals should start with these links: https://xjjeeps.com/#ReferenceDocuments https://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=XJ

Congrats!! Good showing, fellas! Looks like a great time. Well, there is Easter Jeep Safari.

The toughest part was figuring out what in the hell that flat spade connector plugs into. I must have overlooked the female connector 5 or 6 times. Looks different than you might expect. And the factory installation instructions say to use piano wire to fish that cable through the column, but you can also just straighten a clothes hanger, tape the wire to it and push it down the column. No disassembly needed.

Retired the D35 after 28 years of service. Prepped, primed and painted the leaf springs. Swapped in the D44 with 4.10s, chromos and e-locker.

For the D30 non-CAD you want Spicer 46470. You need to buy 2. The new seal is shown on the left, the old seal is on the right:

Did the D44 come out of a MJ or an XJ? Did you measure the distance between the leaf spring perches?

Honda CRV. My wife is on her second one. She just traded up to a 2019 model a few months ago. The newer AWD ones are closer to $30k but if you're willing to go back to 2010 then you can find one for $10-12k. She regularly gets 30mpg with the AWD and economy mode.

What a shame. Under-cab ground effects look trashed. Probably used a forklift to move it around the lot.

You've mentioned 32's several times, but you also mentioned running stock Eliminator wheels. Eliminator wheels are 15x7. There are very few 32x10.5R15 tires on the market. I think you can get super swampers in that size and that's about it. If you're dead-set on the Eliminator wheels then you will likely have to move to a 32x11.5R15, which will work, but 11.5 is not typically recommended for a 7" rim. If you're never going to air down, you'll probably be ok but you will have additional clearance issues to deal with due to the wider tire. My advice would be to get comfortable with 31x10.5R15 on the stock wheel, or start considering some other wheel options in 15x8 or 16x8 with more backspacing.

So... what's the inside scoop on 91-92 Comanche fuel sending units (P/N 4637184)? Can you see every NOS Comanche part in the system? Or do you have to search for specific part numbers?