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agamble

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About agamble

  • Rank
    Comanche Aficionado

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    Jeeps, classic cars, motorcycles, biking, and being in the great outdoors.

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  1. Thanks! I'm glad to hear others are enjoying the detail. I do most of it for myself as a way to keep track of what modifications/upgrades I've done and what parts to make it easier on myself if I need to repair, replace, or replicate in the future.
  2. The easiest route is to use Ford 8.8 parts, for cables I found that grand cherokee ebrake cables are long enough to use. I did a write up not to long ago; there's a link in the thread to a naxja thread that goes over everything in great detail.
  3. I was crawling around under the Jeep and took note of how rusted the fuel filter was. This got me to thinking how old could the filter be for it to have rusted as such. A $10 investment for piece of mind goes along way. I replaced the fuel line and the fuel injection clamps for a fresh new start.
  4. Thanks! Its always good to get compliments regarding ones work.
  5. Thanks! Comments/feed back is always appreciated.
  6. Having completed the lower body panel work, I installed what is my opinion the second most important modification you can do to any offload vehicle (the first of course being quality tires), a good set of rock sliders. Past experience has shown all it takes is one easy trail run gone bad and you've wiped out the side of your truck. I ordered the deluxe rock sliders for the long bed from Dirtbound Offroad. The sliders are built using a 1.5 x 3 x .188" main tube, 1.25 x .120 side tube, bolt to the unibody in 12 places and the pinch seam on 8 plates per side, and come shipped in bare steel.. The added bonus of having the tube step is getting to park in the good parking spaces without getting door dings. It's funny seeing the new half moon marks on the sliders from people inconsiderately swinging their doors open. First I applied two coats of a rust inhibitor to the bare metal, followed by two coats of Rust-O-leum paint and primer in one, then as a finish I applied two coats of Rust-O-leum Appliance Epoxy. To mount the rocker guards, I debated on using nutserts, as I had seen others use and recommend, or use self tappers. After much reading on the web of the pros and cons between the two and internal debate, I went with the provided self tappers. With my mounting hardware selected, I followed/repeated the mounting procedure found on the JCR Offroad website (Dirtbound Offroad did not supply any instructions, nor do they have any on their website), http://www.jcroffroad.com/install_guides/SL_CL_XJ_ZJ_WJ_KK_KJ%20REV%202016.04.15.pdf. Mounting took me about 40 minutes per side, that was with me taking my time, marking and drilling the pilot holes and working up inside to the final 1/4" hole for the self tappers. The outcome of a an easy trail run gone wrong. I was only able to get 3 out of the 4 bolts because of it. When you get the sliders up into place, the unibody mounts will be sitting any where from flush to an 1/8" gap. As you tighten the self tappers, take your time tightening each screw evenly and the gap will close and the mounts will end up being flush.
  7. Before fall set in I completed body work on the quarter panels, complete with a primer coating. I was hoping to reapply the bedliner on the lower quarter panels to have it done and out of the way, but time was not on my side. With the colder temperatures the plan was put on pause. Now that spring has sprung, a brought with it warmer temperatures it is time to finish the lower quarter panels. A some point a coat of Durabak (a DIY bedliner) was applied to prevent rock chips. When it was originally done the Durabak was applied with the fender flares on, resulting in peeling near the flares and a feeling of being incomplete. This time around the flares were removed to have a complete running front to back. The garage wall prevented me from having enough space to get a single shot. The entire lower half of the truck was washed cleaned to remove dirt, oil, grease, and grime. I masked off a line where I didn't want Durabak to be. I moved the tape line up ever so slightly to clean up the rough edge from the previous application. Durabak can be sprayed or rolled on, I went with roll. You can buy special rollers from the manufacturer that helps the rubber granuals spread more evenly. The manufacturer’s directions for application of the Durabak bedliner state that a primer coat is not necessary, but I found that the bedliner adhered much better to the primed areas than the places where I had just roughed up the factory paint with a light sanding, as recommended. Application was pretty straightforward. I used the manufacturer supplied foam brush to paint along panel, nooks and crannies I used a paint brush. I started by woking on the factory exposed paint. The first coat went on smoothly, though it did take a minute or two to really get the hang of how to apply the bedliner evenly. Since the air here is so dry, the first coat took ~25 minutes to become tacky to the touch. Once the second was applied, a third and final coat was applied along the entire lower panel to give an even, more consistent look all around. As soon as the final coat was on I we all of the painters tape and am letting the Jeep to dry overnight. I've been out twice to touch up any necessary areas. Since Durabak bonds to itself, this has not been a problem.
  8. The tailpipe extended about 1/16" too far back and was contacting the hitch. I also did not like how low it was hanging. To tuck it up I removed tailpipe to just in front of where the crimps leading into the bend begin. With the section that was hanging low removed I installed a chrome tip. The tip didn't sit flush on the tailpipe, leaving an 1/8" gap. The two supplied screws used to pinch it into place would cause the tip to angle down and slide/fall out of place. To better secure it into place I drilled out two 3/16" holes allowing the screws to thread into the tail pipe itself. There was also a 3/16" hole drilled through the top of the tip and tailpipe to give an additional screw.
  9. The last thing I did with the exhaust system is I thought I could help the whole system breath better. To accomplish this a MeanLemons 60mm throttle body replaced the stock one. MeanLemons was great to work with. Prompt responses, prompt service.
  10. When the manifolds were removed, the bolts were a mixture of OEM and random bolts. All of the random bolts were too long and had random amounts of washers and/or additional nuts on the threads to take up the extra length. A jaunt to the hardware store had 11 new 3/8-16 1 1/4" bolts to replace all of them. out of there habit and without giving it much thought until I was bolting the manifolds on, I grabbed Grade 8 hardware. If I had been paying more attention I probably could have saved a few bucks, ah well. Degreaser made the manifold look almost new. Rockauto has replacements for the entire exhaust, all manufactured by Walker. I bought , the down pipe, a new cat, the SoundFX muffler, and the tail pipe. The only fitment issue is the tail pipe extends out a little far and contacts the hitch. Instead of using the u-bolt style exhaust clamps, I went with band clamps. The u-bolts tend to cause crimps that make it more difficult to disassemble down the road. I personally like to make future disassembly as easy as possible for myself.
  11. Back when the transmission was swapped the big hiccup that I encounter was the exhaust system was completely welded. From the exhaust headers to the tail pipe all the segments were fully welded. Headers are what were on the Jeep, they had the correct bungs for the O2 sense and EGR tube welded into the down pipe coming from the 4th cylinder. If I could have swapped down pipes I would have kept the heads but they did not have the flange to mate the two together. Who, when, or why it was decided to weld everything as one unit left me with so many questions. So at the time of the transmission swap in order to drop the transmission I was left with two options: 1 - remove the intake manifold and exhaust headers. 2- cut the down pipe to create separation I didn't want to take apart half of the engine bay, to then remove the entire exhaust system, only to drop the transmission. And thinking of future endeavors I didn't want this to be the route every time, I therefore went with option two. I cut the down pipe just in front of the transmission to get the separation needed to drop the transmission. When all was said and done, I tried to fix the the cut with an extension and hose clamps but I couldn't get it to seal and settled for an extremely bad exhaust leak. The exhaust pipes on the system were 2" diameter and the auto parts stores didn't really have much to offer. Well after 7 months or so, I decided I'd had enough with the loud exhaust and poor fuel mileage and replaced the entire exhaust system. Being more budget I went back to the stock exhaust manifold in place of the headers.Before I had to cut the exhaust apart, creating a bad leak, I didn't really notice any power gains or MPG improvements with the headers anyways. I have held onto them and at some point if I think I want them back on I'll weld on a flange. Before I put the exhaust manifold in I gave it a coating of Rust-O-leum high temp pain. After the tear down I noticed 29 years of use was clearly showing. The inner walls were caked in oily carbon build-up. In removing the carbon build-up and grease I tried a product I've never used before. Spray the degreaser on, let the foam sit for 10-15 minutes and wipe away. A couple sprays and wipes, with a good rinse and the soot build-up was gone.
  12. Purchased and installed 48" Hi-Lift, base and fire extinguisher. I know that there are varying opinions on the practicality and need of a Hi-Lift. I find that if you've read the instructions, keep the jack clean and lubed, and use it safely (i.e., make sure the foot is placed securely, keep a foot on it while operating the jack, keep firm hand on the handle, and all body parts from the scissoring area) I think they are a valuable tool when off road with multiple uses. What I don't do with a Hi-Lift is work on the Jeep, use it to hold up the Jeep and crawl under or change tires. My primary use of the Hi-Lift is to lift a wheel off the ground to get myself unstuck or, as has happened on a few occasions, lift off something that has become stuck under the belly of the Jeep or act as a counter winch in certain winching situations. If you've ever slid off the road when you go to winch back up onto the road as you pull the front or rear of the vehicle the opposite ends wants to continue sliding off, the Hi-Lift can be used to apply tension on the opposite end. To mount it I tried to keep it simple, its been stored in a quasi accessible location out of sight behind the weather guard box. Easily viewed things tend wander off. While working around the weather guard box I finally took the time to do some organizing of tools and equipment. Everything as of right now has been stored in the box. Basic essentials include: my sleeping bag, spare tools for most any on road repair, a box with various tie-down straps and tow straps, pulling chain and a set tire chains. The second box with a pair of tire chains is a place holder for now to keep the contents from sliding around. The ammo cans have created enough space that I still have room to pack various fluids as well.
  13. If you think the load sensing valve is not functioning properly before deleting it try this.
  14. Recently a buddy gave a new name to the Jeep with a play on the Wildernest name. He's taken to calling it the "The Wilderbeest". I like it and decided to go with it. I think it has a better ring to it than the previous moniker. As such, I've updated the thread title to reflect it.
  15. Since doing my disc brake swap I noticed that the rear brakes were not applying much clamping force. When stopping on gravel I was unable to get the rear brakes to lock up. With the dual diaphragm booster upgrade the truck was still stopping hands down better than it use to so I didn't think much of it at first. Here after a recent snow storm I noted that even on ice with minimal resistance the rear brakes would not lock up the tires. A known culprit for rear brake pressure loss is the load sensor. From reading the forum posts most elect to delete it all together when it appears that it has failed. I began looking into the process for deleting the load sensor when I came across thread posted by HOrnbrod: Using the advice on pg 2 I was able to get the rear brakes to lock up just after the fronts.
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