DesertRat1991

I agree that it should match the bumpers. Take a look at the NOS bumper pics in the thread below. The original finish looks like semi-gloss.

Yes, you may see a temperature excursion if you park it and heat soak the engine. Mine does this sometimes when driving off-road. Do you currently have an e-fan installed? The e-fan should kick on when your temp reaches ~225, then turn off again at 210 after the situation is back under control. If you have an e-fan and want to test it's activation point, you can bring your truck up to temp then block the grill with a piece of cardboard. The needle will start creeping up. If the needle creeps past ~225-230 without the fan kicking on, call off the test -- something is wrong.

Nice truck! Converting to the HD fan clutch is a good move for a desert truck. It runs a bit louder than the stock unit but it definitely helps. NAPA part number is 272310. Your electric fan should be kicking on at ~230 if it's working properly.

Add some weight or remove one of the leafs. If you are using aftermarket shackles, then ty returning to stock since they are pretty short. These springs don't seem to "settle" all that much. I've lost 1/2" over 2 years, and most of that occurred in the first 12 months. They've held up pretty good. That's with stock bumper, full sized spare, trailer hitch, tool box and a camper shell in the rear.

Great info! I'm really looking forward to your chapters covering "parts selection for dummies." I'm trying to piece together an R134A setup for my 91 and have already sourced the HVAC box and dashboard control panel from a '95 XJ. I'd like to replace the heater core and evaporator. Do you have any thoughts on copper vs aluminum for these parts? My understanding is that copper transfers heat better, but the copper units aren't made entirely of copper. On the other hand, the aluminum units are all aluminum so they end up working better. Also, does this UAC 4366A parts kit look like a good kit to continue building around? I like that it includes a parallel flow condenser: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9826464&jsn=365 If I can nail these items down I think that just leaves 4 hoses and a pressure switch left to find. The '91 looks to be pre-wired for the compressor and pressure switch. Am I missing anything? Thanks.

I just bought one from this seller last week when Ebay was offering 10% bucks back through their app. I just got a notification that they are offering 13% bucks through the app today: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-Spicer-DIFFERENTIAL-CARRIER-DANA-SUPER-30-UNLOADED-OPEN-3-73-AND-UP/223462050152?epid=235752353&hash=item3407604968:g:ixAAAOSwYpVcm0YS It came with new bolts and a roll pin.

This truck has had an interesting life. That gaping hole in the frame under the UCA bucket isn't normal. Kind of looks like the UCA bucket started separating from the frame and the mangled welds were a (poor) attempt at repair. I'd like to see a side profile shot of the LCA mount. I'm not convinced that is a drop bracket. Doesn't look like it drops much lower than the stock mount. Plus, a drop bracket wouldn't be necessary with WJ arms. And, you wouldn't typically install a LCA drop without dropping the UCA mounts too. What would cause this damage? Hard to say. Undercarriage doesn't look all that rusty. Maybe someone wheeled the hell out of it in a past life. I reccomend finding someone who actually knows how to weld to look into boxing and stiffening the frame in that area.

IMO, overpriced @ $10,900. It's a clean old truck, for sure. Buy it if you LOVE old Renix trucks, but being a Chief doesn't add much to the premium in my book. It's basically alloys and stickers ...with cloth seats. No leather and no power windows. That makes this bird rare, but not particularly special. Since you asked, I'd max out at $8,500. I think AMC really screwed up by not making the Chief the top trim package. The "CHIEF" should have come LOADED.

Despite the deceptive thread title, the thread below actually has a lot of good information on the d44 brake conversion:

Got interior pics? Curious about the rear leg room.

Nope. They are completely independent. Yes ...sorta. Originally, I had those pins mounted on the outboard side of the skid plate and they worked great for disco storage. Then I moved to bigger tires and they contacted the rubber when flexing so I flipped them inboard. Now I just use them to hold extra ring pins. If had to do it over again I would've just mounted the pins higher up on the frame with self tapping fasteners.

Nope, no clearance issues with the track bar.

Gas tank skid is huge and bolts up in a few places:

(couldn't fit all the pics into one post) Transfer case skid runs from the frame rail to the underside of the transmission crossmember.

Front skid mounts onto threaded posts in the front using 3 nuts. Then uses 2 bolts in the rear just behind the sway bar mounts.

Interesting. When I ran the numbers a while back, assuming 26.5" stock tires (195/75R15) and 3.07s, I got 3.55 as the closest match to stock for 31's and ~3.73 for 32's.

I'm going to 32s and 4.10. Overgearing a bit to compensate for the camper shell.

Dear Sir or Madam, Your tow pig and toy hauler don't belong in the left lane for all the same reasons 18 wheelers don't belong there -- because with greater momentum comes greater reponsibility. Yes, we are all impressed and jealous that your lifted TitanMax-TurboStroke is mechanically capable of doing 10-15mph over the speed limit with 12,000lbs out back. But the fact that you haven't reigned in your driving style at all while towing shows you haven't given any thought to the safety of yourself or other drivers. Do us a favor, slow it down and keep right while towing.

Dorman 68181 (black) or 68155 (chrome) for the light covers.

http://teamcherokee.com/interior-trim-garnish-pin-16-piece-set-cherokee-comanche-1984-1996/

Can you share the part numbers for the foam sheets and neoprene you used? I've been looking at the $45 kit below to seal up the engine bay side: https://www.morris4x4center.com/seal-drain-to-dash-4874069ab.html Were you able to get it done cheaper?

@18:20 Seems unsporting to declare a 10k budget for a "cheap Jeep" build then sweep in thousands worth of free parts from your sponsors. Average Joe would have blown the budget at this point and is now rolling around on 33's and 3.07's. Not a fun combo for Moab. Better keep that wallet open, Joe!

Oy. I would support the engine with a jack and a block of wood, unbolt the other engine mount, remove the 4 bolts holding the transmission crossmember to the frame, then slowly lower the jack to see if the engine would drop a few inches for better access. Keep a close eye on the fan to make sure it doesn't contact the radiator. Yank out that coil spring too if need be. Good luck.

Interested. I've been compiling parts to do a ground-up install on my '91. Still got lots to learn.