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WyoCherokee

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Everything posted by WyoCherokee

  1. Ive been Bad about updating the build on this site, simply because its so much easier to upload photos over on CF. Most up to date is over on CF: http://www.cherokeef...sleeper-231553/ So far, i have cut the front fenders to match the newer xj lines. plugged the knock sensor back in and gained power Bent the Nates 4x4 rear bumper simply from tugging out at YJ and started on a custom center console.
  2. All of the above. 3.07's and 31's is what is hurting you the most. i have 3.55's, 31's, 60mm TB, cowl intake, injectors, exhaust and the ax-15. It will hold 75 mph in a 30mph headwind in 5th gear, but with foot to the floor and struggling, so idrop it to 4th and cruise at 3k rpms. If you have the axles, swap them in, and do the rest as you can.
  3. Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.
  4. Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.
  5. Gillette, Wyoming here.
  6. i believe ruff stuff or tnt customs sell coil buckets for the frame. you will need those. if i remember correctly the stock GC rear coils will allow mounting to the xj/mj clearance wise. for 33's you will want 3-4" GC coils, as they are stiffer than xj front coils.
  7. I used the boostwerks linkage on my AW4. worked great. now ordering the AX-15 version.
  8. Not bad at all. It is only 1" tubing. I am 5'10, and i feel like its a perfect fit.
  9. Spent Sunday goofing off in the mountains
  10. Holy Grease mess! Good luck with that adventure
  11. Meanlemons on here, XJWonders on Cherokee Forum. I think i got the very last set of cables from Kelly(5-90) they were good, but man it took forever. He no longer operates the business due to personal reasons.
  12. I'll believe it when i see it on a dealership. They teased us with prototypes of it and the "comanche" in Moab. Until then....its just a design
  13. Go junkyarding or craigslisting for a 97+ D30. There is enough of them around. start with the basics....new brake pads and shoes, replace the rubber lines with stainless lines. fix or remove the rear weight proportioning valve. It looks like you are running 31's? Those are pretty much the break over for gears up to a 3.55. you can get away with 265/75/16's on 3.55's but its right on the edge of not enough umph. 33's will go anywhere 35's will go, and the amount of work needed to properly fit 35's outweighs the costs, unless you plan to make it a hardcore wheeler. Get adjustable Control arms to fix the front axle alignment. There are plenty of steering upgrades out there. B.Lee, Cav-fab, JCR. I ran the ZJ upgrade on 32" tires for 3 years with no issues. Hannamans makes fiberglass fenders....but if you see trees or rocks....i would advise against fiberglass. There are MJ specific fender flare options.....Napier precision, Bushwacker both make hard plastic flares. There are also a handfull of campanies making steel flares. Give us some more details on your rig. engine, tranny, current gears, list of current mods, etc.
  14. Jackson, Wy got 20ft for the month of December. 5 ft last week, and 3 more feet expected this weekend. Needless to say, the ski'ing on the tetons and grand mountain has been excellent :)
  15. just the concept of spring under
  16. OK i am at a serious debacle here. i am planning on 285's and 4.5 to 5.5" high. Do i stay Spring Under and go with Hell Creek 4.5 leafs and shackles, Or do i go ahead and do a full Spring Over swap. part of me wants to go Spring over, but the other half wants to stay SUA and just do a u-bolt flip for nostalgic reasons. I already have the front coils springs and shocks for either setup. I look at how many SUA YJ's are out there clammoring through the woods with no issues aside from poor wheel placement. I don't do anything crazy, aside form the occasional Moab Trip or trail runs. This is the worst we see in our mountains...this is a SUA YJ for reference. over in the Black Hills and here in the bighorns. He gets hung up occasionally but mostly due to poor wheel placement and open diffs.
  17. I guess i don't understand why you wouldnt just swap in the prop valve from the donor ZJ with discs, and run the "rear" line into an extended braided line at the bracket, down to the wheel lines; retaining the 3/8 connection where it runs into the T and not having to reflare anything on that end. If you took the 8.25 from an xj, the brake lines, splitting block, and even the flexible line should all be attached. You could then remove the excess line running along the frame, the weight valve and all associated lines.
  18. ^^^^^THIS! :thumbsup:
  19. Fixing to do this myself. Do you have a quick pic of the routing you did in the rear? I have both the axle lines from my old XJ. I was thinking of plugging the prop valve port, running the "rear" hard line into a XJ soft line(the hard line should be the same nut size as an xj?) which drops down to the axle lines(same as an XJ). This is how i had them for my 8.8 discs.
  20. just did this swap my self. 98 2 door folding seats into a 90 MJ with MJ bucket mounts. Had to fab up my own adaptors, as the 97+ racks are a good 4" wider than the 90 sliders.
  21. Swapped in a set of 97+ 2 door XJ tilt seats. For those who are using the search function....MJ bucket mounts will not work with any other seat. You must swap tracks if your donor seats are from a early model xj. Or you must Fab your own mounts if you are using 97+ seats as the track widths are 4" wider. I used some scrap tubing i had laying around to Fab my own mounts. It took about 2 hours for 1 seat by taking my time and working on drilling holes and finding hardware. THese will work for now until i strip the interior, at which time i will re make my mounts
  22. Yep! I did those like a month ago before I had the metal sides formed.Not sure if I'm going to use round tubing or not. Might need some ideas here... round tubing would be the cleanest look. With 16 or 14g sheet tacked in between the bedsides and the tubing. I think it was a page or 2 ago, you posted a front flare photo.
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