WyoCherokee

Did someone say 3-Link???? Time for fine tuning and i need to trim off the short arm brackets and add the frame side tie-ins. After that, the rear needs to come up about 2 inches. as it sites now, it has the "socal squat" I want to stay spring under, so i am debating between explorer leafs or a set of hell creek 4.5's vs rustys 4.5's. I found these: https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/suspension/trail-gear-suspension/rear-suspension-parts/total-chaos-spring-u-bolt-plates/ to replace the low hanging stock plates. just need to weld some shock hangars on the axle.

By Golly it works!

Lots of 1-ton swaps out there have been done on XJ's and MJ's. quite a few companies make weld on trusses to match the xj/mj mounting locationd, coil perches, shock mounts etc. TNT Customs to name one. i have a friend who just put 1 tons under his comanche using their trusses. As far as coilovers.....as stated above, buy a quality coilover and quality control arms or a quality 4 link and you will be just fine.

Interesting views. I guess I see it differently. Every time I look at it, I think "hot damn it looks sharp for its age." When it lost the alternator a couple weeks ago... I just shrugged it off and told myself "it's 30 years old" I guess I'm not afraid to be proud that I own a MJ, and that it's still running. Especially when I get comments on it all the time.

Why do i see so many people refer to their MJ as "my old pile of crap" or "this worthless turd" or "this POS." If you don't like it, then get rid of it! If you don't want to get rid of it, and it doesnt run right; then fix it! Thats why these forums are around, to help others with a vast array of knowledge. Rant off :soap box:

ZJ upgrade is simple and easy and cheap. Crown Auto sells a kit that is the same diameter as the stock setup, but solid rod instead of tube. For more gumbo, there are several companies offering 1 ton kits for the $200-300 range.

Perhaps expanding upon the "MJ Tech" section. sub forums for "trouble shooting / general maintenance", "modified tech talk" "engine swaps" and a sub category for "97+ swap"

Did you use the rear coils?? The coils should fit directly on the coil pad. There is a little indent on the coil pad that the end of the spring slides up against t keep it from spinning. Front ZJ coils will give you about 1.5" of lift over stock XJ/MJ coils

well it seems photobucket killed all my pictures. YOul have to go to my cherokeeforum thread to see them all. In other news, i finally got the rest of my Cav-Fab 3 link in. Now i can start putting the whole shabang together. Will have to do brake lines, rear height valve delete, install my 4.5" coils, add bumpstops, and get longer shocks. but hopefully ill have her back on her own 4 feet in a week or to. :thumbsup:

That is the coupler i was looking for. Thank you sir! i knew there was a way to do this without re flaring lines!

i have seen one........i goes right behind the lower header panel, but i can't for the life of me remember who made it. I was going to reccomend the boostwerks brace. good security for your steering box. They are pure beef.

Comanche fitment issues. Have to secure these lines up and out of the way: Picked up this project trailer, thinking overland style build. i have a set of 32's to go on it once i find rims.

i like how they use "5 additional gallons of gas" as a selling point. like. "congrats, you just spent 35k dollars, here is a complimentary 10$ in gas! so it doesnt die when we drive it off the trailer"

Will post pictures tomorrow when I'm on a computer. I really hate uploading pics to this site. Check my cherokee forum post in the meantime.

There are actually 5 bolt. A side frame tie in bracket is utilized. Finally got my cross member put in. Still waiting on my links and tie in brackets to arrive

Picked up my cav-fab crossmember this weekend. still waiting on the stupid links to show up. i can't do squat until i get them. putting the crossmember on now, renders the jeep useless untill the links show up. The Comanche fuel and brake lines route differently than the cherokee, and puts them right i n the way of the upper link, so we bent and secured them up and out of the way:

i guess i can chime in. I am 29. i graduated college in 2012. i got a full time job as an engineer making 50k a year. i lived in a $#!&ty $500 a month apartment for 2 years. i was soon promoted to making 80k a year. i have bought a house, sold it 2 years later, bought another house, and will have been in it for a year next month. I made money on the first house simply by doing fixerupper items and selling when the market was right. The money i made, i put right back in to my current house. I have bought and payed of a 30k truck, have a camper, 2 horses, a atv, and 2 other project vehicles, and i hunt 6 months out of the year. I feel i am fortunate to be in this position, but i worked my @$$ off to get here. I did college for 5 years, and barelly graduated with a 2.5 gpa. I am a firm believer that yes you need to save, but what is the point of hoarding money, if you have no fun in life. I budget my bills, my savings addition every month, and that tells me what i have to play with my only bills, are my mortgage, utilities, camper payment and credit card payment. Sure i could take that extra play money amount and put it in to savings, but then i would be stuck at home with no money to do anything. I have friends who are complete money hoards. they NEVER do anything. they get a paycheck, and put every penny of it in the bank, they eat hamburger helper every night and live in a damp crummy loud apartment. and they always complain about how they wish they could go have fun. BUT they brag all the time about how they have $50k in their savings account, and no long term debt. To me its all about balance of savings vs life enjoyment. and right now for me being 29 and a single bachelor, i would rather enjoy my life while i am physically and mentally able to. Overland expedition through the rockies! Sure lets go tomorrow! but first i have to finish up my work load, delegate my work responsibilities, request the time off work, and make sure i have a house sitter to feed the horses. Then lets go!

to answer your question.....Yes

Check with what your state requires and the states you are passing through. that's the easiest. that being said,buying a new vehicle unknown to me, i always feel safer trailering it home, regardless if it can drive or not. that way i can get it in my garage and give it a once over before taking it on a road. Here in wyoming, as long as you have the bill of sale notorized, you are legal to drive it without plates for 45 days. Here you have to get new plates with every ownership change(it stupid) so most folks keep their old plates, and just have the bill of sale and title notorized. I drove a bronco from Jackson to Gillette(450 miles) with no plates or insurance, with just a bill of sale. completely legal here.

So you bedlined the floor, Dynamatted over the top of the bedliner, and threw down frost king, and then carpet? Any issues with the dynamat sticking to the bedliner?

patiently waiting with a bag of popcorn.

Bump for more!

Its still a wrangler....

It's there for low traction scenarios. That might be snow, depending. Maybe ice. Rain on a gravel/dirt road, sure. Rain on pavement, probably not, unless there's enough to skimboard on. The (not available on a MJ) NP242 transfer case has a Full Time 4HI position, which is for running around in situations where you might want more traction, but there is not a complete lack of traction. Basically there is a differential in the case that allows for some speed variation between the front and rear tires. This tcase was optional on the XJ, so some guys swap them in because it's basically a bolt in. If I was to plan to run around in 4wd a lot, I'd get one. Like I said, you can use Part Time 4HI at speed or on pavement, you will just wear the tcase out faster. And your tires. And your ujoints. it is thee one where all four tires are moving together forever until it breaks haha the 242 allowed for play between the front and back wheels i see.I'm learning so much bout em prob won't use it unless its like snowing or whatnots.i know i had pretty good traction without the 4 hi.my t-case says np 231 j 272 ratio which i guess is the new venture one.i wish i had the dana 44 axles or the 8.8 but the dana 35 which everyone beats up is still good for its payload everyones just like what i can have a payload of 5 thousand pounds in a small size truck wooo dana 44 etc lmdo my comanche gets 23ish miles to the gallon yours gets ? haha its definitely a trade off on what u want with your comanche.stop beating the dana 35 up its solid for what its made to do just like the 44 is solid for what its made to do!!! Sent from my LG-V410 using Tapatalk the 242 can be ran in 2 modes of 4x4: full time and part time, and is the preferred transfer case for "slick on road conditions" just as DirtyComanche mentioned. The 231 case is not meant for full time 4x4 use at higher speeds with "good traction, however can be used at highway speeds in icy/snowy/ gravel type conditions." there is still plenty of traction on rain soaked pavement. don't believe me, go put it in 4hi, turn hard left and watch your front end pop and groan as you pull forward or back up, even on wet pavement. Not saying you can't do it, sure it can be used on hilly streets in say a massive downpour, but rainy conditions do not fully necesitate the need for 4x4 while traveling at highway speeds. I grew on on the Pacific coast in the rain forest, Over 100 inches of rain a year. maybe once or twice did i use 4x4 on pavement while it was raining, and that was starting and stopping in the steep steep hills of the Portland heights. What will really help you in rainy conditions is appropriate tires and good throttle control and staying out of stud ruts.

Here in Wyoming it is 80 mph on all major interstates :bowdown: You don't need 4x4 in the rain on pavement. Can I ask....why????? Gene Because I was Service Manager at a Jeep dealership and had 13 Comanches as demos. If anything broke, which I knew it wouldn't, we could fix it under warranty. Lucky Turd It isn't the abrupt torque that'll do the damage. In the 231, the front and rear driveshafts are locked in 4WD. That means they both spin at the same speed. If the rear wheels are under power and spinning when you shift, the rear wheels are rotating faster than the front wheels. When you try to shift, all you're going to get is a loud, alarming grinding sound. It's exactly the same as trying to shift a manual tranny without the clutch, and not matching the engine speed to the road speed. Precisely