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About Gene

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    Comanche Aficionado

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  • Location
    Western Maryland
  • Interests
    1988 Comanche longbed 4.0 5 speed 4 WD I have had this since it was new!

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  1. Gene

    Emiss Maint

    There are guys on this forum ( HOrnbrod, cruiser, eagle, and Pete among others, certainly many more) who are walking encyclopedias of Jeep. Their knowledge, and willingness to help, are exceptional. Gene
  2. Hi Myles, You really, really, really need a voltmeter. You can get a cheap one for about $10. The voltmeter on the dash is notoriously unreliable. I agree with everyone so far, most likely this is a bad battery. I think the strategy of pulling it and taking it to be checked make sense. However, what does not make sense is that your vehicle dies. As Eagle pointed out, a bad battery, by itself, would not cause the vehicle to die. So there may be two separate things going on. I think it's possible that the vehicle is overcharging, and that the dash gauge is not registering properly. This could kill the battery, hence two problems. Voltage of a fully charged battery, engine off, should be around 12.8 V, give or take. When the vehicle is running, and the alternator is putting out electricity, the reading should be around 13.8 V. Please let us know how this turns out! Gene
  3. This seems most likely. Bad ground somewhere in left front. Gene
  4. Hi Paradise, That voltage difference goes along with a high resistance connection. I would try changing the terminal (or whole cable) first. Gene
  5. If you have a helper, then put the voltmeter on the battery posts, a fully charged battery should read about 12.5 V or higher. Then have someone turn the ignition key to start. If the voltage goes way low, perhaps five or six volts, then the battery is defective. If the battery voltage stays high, not really dropping below 12, then look elsewhere. Bad starter solenoid would be one possibility. Gene
  6. Gene

    LED Florescent Bulbs

    Hi Don, You actually don't have to change the fixtures, the ballast can be eliminated. In the second link, click the "general instructions guidelines" link. Of course, the more fixtures there are, and the longer they are on, the more important this becomes. Gene https://insights.regencylighting.com/plug-and-play-or-ballast-bypass-linear-led https://www.earthled.com/collections/t8-t12-led-fluorescent-replacement-tube-lights-that-bypass-ballast-rewire/products/luceco-led-fluorescent-replacement-tube-4-ft-18-watt-ballast-bypass-direct-wire?variant=2174807620
  7. Gene

    LED Florescent Bulbs

    Hi everyone, I believe that, if you really want energy savings, the LEDs have to be wired directly, eliminating the old ballast. The ballast, if left connected, still consumes quite a bit of energy. It seems like one of the local "scams" is to promise significant savings with an LED update, but then just install LED tubes in the fixtures, without touching the ballasts or wiring. It's quick, but really doesn't do much in terms of energy efficiency. Gene
  8. Gene

    AWD/ tire size discrepancu

    Hi everyone, I tried to do a little research on this. This article https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18 Is most interesting. The vehicle in question is a Subaru, and it looks like it is extremely sensitive to tire diameter. Thanks for the replies. Gene
  9. Gene

    AWD/ tire size discrepancu

    Hi everyone, General question about AWD and tire size. What can you actually get away with? Of course for all tires to be EXACTLY the same is best. Is a 2/32" difference OK? 4/32? etc Thanks! Gene
  10. Gene

    Help wiring a new alternator

    Hi rural, Sounds like this is getting complicated. I found this thread Of yours, so it sounds like there has been quite a bit of rewiring going on. Perhaps you can look at it this way. The alternator output, from the larger stud on the alternator, is 12 V hot all the time. Essentially it is the same as the positive terminal on the battery. If you're running extra wires to a winch or other accessories, there may be several wires, but basically the alternator output goes to the battery. I'm not sure what the additional red wire on the side of the alternator you're speaking of is, a picture would help. Is it possible that is actually a ground wire, if it's connected to the frame? The regulator plug has two wires. Normally both of these have to be connected for the alternator to work. If your alternator would function as a "one wire" alternator, then this hookup would be optional. If you don't hook them up, then the voltmeter in the dash will not work. Again, pictures might help. Gene
  11. Gene

    Help wiring a new alternator

    Hi rural, This information is based on a 1988 wiring diagram. I imagine yours is the same, but don't know this with certainty. The original equipment alternator had three wires going to it. One, a larger 8 gauge red, goes to the battery terminal. This is hot all the time. The connector at the regulator has two wires coming to it. One is a 16 gauge yellow, the other is a 16 gauge tan with white tracer. The yellow should be hot whenever the ignition switch is on. The tan with white comes from the instrument panel gauge, or idiot light if there is no gauge. This will be hot when ignition is on, but it does not receive full voltage, it receives the voltage that passes through the gauge, or idiot light. I'm not quite sure of the electronics, but for the stock alternator to work, the yellow wire has to get full voltage, and the tan with white wire has to have a 10 ohm load between full system voltage and the terminal on the regulator. This 10 ohm load is either the voltmeter, or the idiot light. Neither of these supply electricity into the ignition switch. Both supply electricity to the voltage regulator, which powers the alternator field, which allows the alternator to produce electricity. To answer your question specifically, view the alternator from the back, so the pulley is facing away from you, and the regulator is facing up.. The left terminal, #1, should have the tan with white wire, and the right terminal, #2, should have the yellow wire. Hope this is helpful. Gene
  12. Gene

    Help wiring a new alternator

    Hi rural, I am confused. a "single wire replacement" actually is a "self exciting regulator" setup and only requires 1 wire total. Do you mean 1 wire total, or 1 output wire and 1 regulator wire? Perhaps a link to the alternator would help. From Powermasters website How do I hook up a one wire alternator? Simply run a charge wire from the battery terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery. The onw-wire regulator is a self-exciting regulator, meaning that it has sensing ciruitry for alternator rotation. As the alternator starts to spin, this circuitry connects the internal voltage regulator to the battery and turns the alternator on. When the alternator comes to a complete stop, this same circuitry turns the alternator off. When to use a one wire alternator? Powermaster early style Delco alternators will work either way - as a one wire or OEM style. The main difference between a one wire and an OEM is the method used to energize or turn on the alternator. An alternator using the OEM style is turned on with the ignition switch. The one wire design is energized with a special sensing cicuit built into the internal voltage regulator. This circuit senses the rotation of the alternators rotor. The rotor must turn at sufficient speed to trip the circuit, starting the charging process. This turn-on speed is affected by several things and is typically higher with certain high amperage alternators. Once this circuit is tripped, the alternator will charge at all speeds, even very low ones, until the alternators rotor comes to a complete stop. At that point, the circuit will shut off and wait for the process to be repeated. What this means for the consumer is that in some applications the engine must be revved to 1200 or 1400 RPMs to turn the one wire alternator on. If the wiring harness is available and this characteristic is annoying, then Powermaster alternators can be plugged in like the stock unit and operated with the ignition switch.
  13. Gene

    Melted Wiring Harness

    Hi pfloyd, Maybe it is just my old eyes, I'm still unable to get real good detail on these pics, when I try to enlarge them the quality deteriorates very rapidly. That said, I wonder whether this could be rodent damage? The damage looks so diffuse and spread over several areas, I'm not sure whether one short would have done this. Then after the rodent created a bare wire, it shorted and did further damage. Looks like one fusible link was "repaired" which needs to be redone. You still need a harness, but there may not be another problem. Once you get the harness in, we can probably give some tips about how to troubleshoot/prevent damage to the new harness. I would think about (temporarily) putting a 20 amp fuse in series with the positive battery cable,between the battery post and the cable end, before first connecting power to the new harness. If that fuse blows you have a dead short which would damage the new harness quickly. I would not depend just on the fusible links, they can take a while to melt, and damage may be done in the process.. Good luck! Gene
  14. Gene

    Melted Wiring Harness

    Hi pfloyd, Could you post a few more pics, including closeups, of the damaged areas? Might be able to give a better guess about what is going on if we saw more detail. Gene
  15. Did he mean 100 miles a year for the past 2 years that its been sitting around? Gene