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WyoCherokee

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Everything posted by WyoCherokee

  1. so far so good. Ive only had it on the trails a couple times and it seems to do just fine. Daily driving, it is invisible. If you can afford it, go full selectable lockers. but if your on a budget, i have yet to see a downside to it!
  2. i typically use napa parts simply because of the discount i get. knock on wood, i haven't had issues with them. really just go to any auto parts store and grab one. As cruiser said, they pretty much all come from the same place.
  3. Just placed my order with TNT Customs for this beauty: https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_parts/jeep_cherokee_xj_bumper_adventure_series I got the one with the pre-runner guard.
  4. ive had two 2.5's. both averaged over 25MPG. Ive had three 4.0's. best ive ever got was 20 with a wyoming tailwind. Youve got something else wrong.
  5. it took me a bit to get them balanced, but then i moved up 4,000 ft in elevation and had to do it again, and an idle screw is fused to the welded nut on the front carb, Agreed. i replaced the shafts probably 15 years ago, but i think it time to just go Weber. I used to use Brittek but they went out of business. Moss Motors is about the only other MG parts place i have found.
  6. ordered a set of Dirtbound's MJ Sliders during their balck friday sale. Hopefully i can get them before my next snow run(rocks like to hide under 4ft of snow)
  7. Ive got Su's. the more i think about it, i think I'm just going to drop a Downdraft on it.
  8. Almost a twin to mine. 72 MGB. i put the electric overdrive in it. need to rebuild the carbs as the primaries leak like a sieve when cranking over. thinking ill just put a weber downdraft on it. I'm also chasing an electrical issue. no wipers, radio or blower fan.
  9. yes, a helical gear LSD, no clutch packs.
  10. max never answered my quote question. bug him about that hahaha
  11. be very careful with the heater control cable connection. it's plastic and can break very easily. Take out your instrument cluster and remove the speedo cable before you start yanking on it. the heater hoses are a royal pain to hook back up. Take your time, put screws in labeled plastic baggies. Took me a full day with breaks to remove, change heater core, and re-install dash. It helps to remove your seats and console.
  12. eh, its not a truck. its a JKU with a bed.
  13. i do believe corbeau actually makes an MJ specific bracket for their seats.
  14. Headliner in, thanks to steve at SMS headliners.
  15. sounds like you need to change the length of your lowers and then re-set your pinion with the tops. got pics?
  16. welcome! we need some photos of the field Recovery! and the MJ of course.
  17. always have a parts rig in your driveway..or 3.
  18. i typically make my own, as a past SAR member and eagle scout i always tend to be over prepared. If you are looking for just a basic one to t hrow under the back seat https://mymedic.us/collections/first-aid-kits has a good selection, and remember First aid kits are eligible for purchase with your HSA card, if you have an HSA account. So essentially, they are free!
  19. Throw back to my old 88 2wd Sportruck. Found this one in my files. note the matching tent!
  20. you might look at the AT3 4s then. They designed it to somewhat compete with the ATW, but still have the tread wear warranty. more sipping and lateral grooves.
  21. Separate, would be great; just the bed tubing. I guess the point of a flare for me is to deflect mud haha. i see all these flares out there, and none of them actually stop mud from covering the door and windows.
  22. Ask Max if they will ever start offering his bed rack as a DIY weld up kit and to make the steel flares go further down the fender to actually stop mud..
  23. coopers at3's Nuff said. That being said, cooper has added the AT3XL and AT3XLT lines as they phase out the original AT3. i would look at the XLT if you tend to take it offroad a bit more. more aggressive sidewall and enhanced rubber compound.
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