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About jerpderp

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    Comanche Fan

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  1. The nylon nuts for the speakers are available at NAPA p/n 665-1002. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6651002
  2. Went from original 2wd springs to OME 2930s with new spring cushions. I think it only gave me 1.25” over where it sat before. 🤷🏼‍♂️
  3. When I did my swap I didn’t notice a change in the actual alignment, but since I did some lift springs, the steering wheel was off center.
  4. My guess was that BA-10/5 trannys and AX-15 trannys has different shift levers due to the different heights of the shifter housing. The original lever from my 87 has an extra bend to it than the lever I pulled from a 90 XJ. I used my original lever on my NV3550 conversion and the angle of the shift knob is kinda awkward. I think removal of the shift lever is different for later years, but I removed the shifter housing, put the lower section in a vise, and used a punch to knock the lever off. I believe newer shifters have threaded holes in the sides that pull the inner bushing out to relieve s
  5. jerpderp

    name that part

    Factory service manual in Braille Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. My tabs were $30 two years ago, but then county voters approved a GIGANTIC public transportation project. Now they’re $50. 66% increase, but still not bad. People with newer cars really got hosed, sometimes hundreds extra each year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I don't have much first hand experience with this, but I've had friends do the junkyard turbo set up. I'd definitely recommend using a used turbo over a Chinese one. Look for Saabs or Volvos, should be pretty cheap. Also try to grab a used intercooler as well just to save $$. Since you don't want to run high boost psi, a smaller intercooler should work fine with less lag. Not sure if this will work space wise, but you may be able to fab an adapter or weld a flange onto the stock manifold. For bottom dollar engine management, megasquirt seems to be the way to go. Good luck Sent from my i
  8. If I was gonna buy an old diesel, it'd be a dodge. It's so clean, aaaand a manual trans. [emoji7] The tracks are super cool, but beaucoup bucks. I'm sure maintenance isn't cheap/easy either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. By god do I love the wood grain bezel. Been looking for one since I bought my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks man! Well you've got twice the Comanches to deal with so that's a lot to maintain. All the little things take the most time. Hopefully the Pontiac will get sorta daily status soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. The NV3550 was $600 shipped from a junkyard in Nebraska. I'm in WA. Found it on car-part.com(love that site). EVERYONE around here wants $400+ for their clapped out AX15 so I figured I'd spend a bit more for an upgraded trans. It was from a 2000 Cherokee. Tcase is an NP242 from a 91 Cherokee, short input. I talked to the guys at Advance Adapters about tcase inputs, and they said you could use long or short inputs with an NV3550. :dunno: I would prefer a long input just for the extra meat. I can take some pics if you want, there are some little differences you have to deal with. Sent fro
  12. H0rnbrod, when I first saw this thread, I thought hell froze over since you always seemed dedicated to the LSV. I am glad all is now right in the world. I do have 1 question though: with your new adjustment, do you think braking will be affected by a load? I'm curious if the valve will turn out of the happy, full braking zone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. So the Comanche was finally a 4x4. What a day that was. Took it to a stormwater drainage pit in my parents neighborhood to test it out, works flawlessly. My god, what a treat it is to drive with a proper transmission. No offense to you BA10-5 guys, but the NV3550 is night and day. Benefits: NV3550=stronger and shifts nicer, new hydraulics=lighter pedal w/ more feel, new u-joints=no more bad vibes man. Definitely changed the driving experience.
  14. After a few test drives, speedo was shaking violently, did an inspection, found that the inner cable was too long: Word of advice, don't use tin snips to trim the cable, it'll fray. Use a cut off wheel. Now that big work was done, all I had to do was rebuild and install the front drive shaft. Turns out that the double cardan is a bit tricky. It was slow going but I made good progress until it was time to reinstall the slinger. I tried using a punch/hammer and like an animal, I mangled 2 of them(the first one was worse): I finally came to my senses a month or so later and
  15. Welp, since its been about six(!) months since a real update,been a bit lazy, and a bit distracted by a new project: But now it's high time to provide the goods. I ended up swapping in the trans/t-case in early April, went pretty well. Old and new, side by side with my friend's doggo, Big Vinny. Definitely a size/weight difference. The actual tranny swap was probably the smoothest R and R I've ever done. But as they say, the devil is in the details. Here's some photographic evidences of issues that tried to derail me: This f#@&!^g exhaust donut had a death grip
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