jerpderp

The nylon nuts for the speakers are available at NAPA p/n 665-1002. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6651002

Went from original 2wd springs to OME 2930s with new spring cushions. I think it only gave me 1.25” over where it sat before. 🤷🏼‍♂️

When I did my swap I didn’t notice a change in the actual alignment, but since I did some lift springs, the steering wheel was off center.

My guess was that BA-10/5 trannys and AX-15 trannys has different shift levers due to the different heights of the shifter housing. The original lever from my 87 has an extra bend to it than the lever I pulled from a 90 XJ. I used my original lever on my NV3550 conversion and the angle of the shift knob is kinda awkward. I think removal of the shift lever is different for later years, but I removed the shifter housing, put the lower section in a vise, and used a punch to knock the lever off. I believe newer shifters have threaded holes in the sides that pull the inner bushing out to relieve some tension and make the process easier. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Factory service manual in Braille Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My tabs were $30 two years ago, but then county voters approved a GIGANTIC public transportation project. Now they’re $50. 66% increase, but still not bad. People with newer cars really got hosed, sometimes hundreds extra each year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't have much first hand experience with this, but I've had friends do the junkyard turbo set up. I'd definitely recommend using a used turbo over a Chinese one. Look for Saabs or Volvos, should be pretty cheap. Also try to grab a used intercooler as well just to save $$. Since you don't want to run high boost psi, a smaller intercooler should work fine with less lag. Not sure if this will work space wise, but you may be able to fab an adapter or weld a flange onto the stock manifold. For bottom dollar engine management, megasquirt seems to be the way to go. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I was gonna buy an old diesel, it'd be a dodge. It's so clean, aaaand a manual trans. [emoji7] The tracks are super cool, but beaucoup bucks. I'm sure maintenance isn't cheap/easy either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By god do I love the wood grain bezel. Been looking for one since I bought my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man! Well you've got twice the Comanches to deal with so that's a lot to maintain. All the little things take the most time. Hopefully the Pontiac will get sorta daily status soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The NV3550 was $600 shipped from a junkyard in Nebraska. I'm in WA. Found it on car-part.com(love that site). EVERYONE around here wants $400+ for their clapped out AX15 so I figured I'd spend a bit more for an upgraded trans. It was from a 2000 Cherokee. Tcase is an NP242 from a 91 Cherokee, short input. I talked to the guys at Advance Adapters about tcase inputs, and they said you could use long or short inputs with an NV3550. :dunno: I would prefer a long input just for the extra meat. I can take some pics if you want, there are some little differences you have to deal with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

H0rnbrod, when I first saw this thread, I thought hell froze over since you always seemed dedicated to the LSV. I am glad all is now right in the world. I do have 1 question though: with your new adjustment, do you think braking will be affected by a load? I'm curious if the valve will turn out of the happy, full braking zone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the Comanche was finally a 4x4. What a day that was. Took it to a stormwater drainage pit in my parents neighborhood to test it out, works flawlessly. My god, what a treat it is to drive with a proper transmission. No offense to you BA10-5 guys, but the NV3550 is night and day. Benefits: NV3550=stronger and shifts nicer, new hydraulics=lighter pedal w/ more feel, new u-joints=no more bad vibes man. Definitely changed the driving experience.

After a few test drives, speedo was shaking violently, did an inspection, found that the inner cable was too long: Word of advice, don't use tin snips to trim the cable, it'll fray. Use a cut off wheel. Now that big work was done, all I had to do was rebuild and install the front drive shaft. Turns out that the double cardan is a bit tricky. It was slow going but I made good progress until it was time to reinstall the slinger. I tried using a punch/hammer and like an animal, I mangled 2 of them(the first one was worse): I finally came to my senses a month or so later and ordered a special installer for $25: Worked like a charm. Highly recommended if you're gonna rebuild your own front driveshaft.

Welp, since its been about six(!) months since a real update,been a bit lazy, and a bit distracted by a new project: But now it's high time to provide the goods. I ended up swapping in the trans/t-case in early April, went pretty well. Old and new, side by side with my friend's doggo, Big Vinny. Definitely a size/weight difference. The actual tranny swap was probably the smoothest R and R I've ever done. But as they say, the devil is in the details. Here's some photographic evidences of issues that tried to derail me: This f#@&!^g exhaust donut had a death grip on my exhaust manifold. :mad: Neither the hammer/pry bar or hammer/chisel methods worked. Had to bring in the angle grinder/cutoff wheel to put a hurtin' on the donut. Cut out a ledge to pry on, only took about 45 minutes... :roll: For some sadistic reason, :fs2: a Jeep engineer decided that a 19mm allen was the ultimate way to remove and reinstall your drain/fill plugs on your NV3550. What normal person has an allen wrench set that goes that high? And I thought the metric square drive plugs on the Peugeot trans were ridiculous. Of course this was at 1 in the morning when I discovered this, but I would not admit defeat. So I found a 19mm bolt and a few nuts and whipped up a drain plug tool. Put the bolt head in the plug, and use a 19mm socket on the nuts to turn it. Words cannot describe the sense of victory I felt at that moment(or was it the lack of sleep?)

Its been a while since I've been on here, but here's a pic of the Chev hose installed. I just tweaked/twisted the hard line to get where it needed to go.

I really, really loved this engine until I saw this comment. Now I only see the flag of baguettes and berets :'( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used NAPA p/n NCP 2671465 bushings. $13 ea seemed like they were pretty good quality. Photo on the website shows they are manufactured by clevite. I can't remember if mine had that marking. I did have to radius the edge with a file to get em to start to press in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! It'll be nice to see if my opinion of them as comfy is confirmed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don, I used some lubricant and they slipped on fairly easily, no damage to the bushing. The bushing for the JK lowers is different than the shocks that came on my Comanche(also different than the upper JK bushing) I searched and searched for a polyurethane replacement bushing and couldn't find one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is anyone running a bazooka tube? They don't seem to have a great reputation, however I am curious on what real people think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not much of an update, but I figured I'd share. I was perusing craigslist for parts and saw there was a local junkyard that had 2(!) Comanches. I had to go check em out and see if they had already been picked clean. One was a Renix that looked like it had been there a while, and most off the good stuff was gone. There were a couple Manche specific things still there: rear speaker brackets, fuel tank, rear axle, and a Draw Tite tow hitch. I am eyeing the hitch, but since the the leaf springs are removed, the hitch is supporting the truck by sitting on a stack of steel wheels. The second truck, however, was practically untouched. Not quite a gold mine, maybe a silver mine, if you will. I checked the date on the tag under the hood. Sadly, it appears to be a 92. :cry: Some bad person out there ruined this truck with a HORRIBLE army green paint job, unaware of an invention called masking tape. :no: The taillights had a good bit of overspray, but I don't think they're cracked. Looks like that same person had the same attention to detail as far as routine maintenance goes, as the engine is kaput. Enough of that, I scored some quality parts. I ended up grabbing the cab vents, speaker brackets and plastic gas tank protectors. I also grabbed a H.O. oil filter adapter, rear view mirror and some battery tie down bolts off a Cherokee. So now I FINALLY have rear speakers, :rock on: a rear view mirror that isn't hazy, and now my truck takes common oil filters. A productive couple days at the junkyard. I do have a complaint about the H.O. oil filter adapter: the filter is not very accessible anymore. The Renix charcoal canister is all up in the way. Depending on how the next oil change goes, I might go back the the Renix adapter, but with the H.O. nipple. With new o-rings, of course. And the tranny swap will happen soon! This is my daily, so I have to plan around that.

YES! Sounds like a good time to me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an engine photo in my build thread Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The two main vac harnesses Hooked up as they should. The routing wasn't as perfect as the factory, but they work with no leaks. The line from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold wasn't close, so I reused the stocker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk