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jerpderp

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Everything posted by jerpderp

  1. jerpderp
    I used NAPA harnesses on my 87. Worked fine. Not a perfect fit but pretty close. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. jerpderp
    Can't do a direct comparison since I installed a D30 and JK Rubicon shocks at the same time, having said that, the ride is much more controlled than the factory 2wd springs and shocks. Firm, yet supple. I really like the combo. And as far as lift, measuring from axle to frame, I'm getting around 8.75-9 inches. Factory spec for 4x4 springs is 7.75 in +/- 0.5 in. So I only got around 1 inch over 4x4 coils. :dunno: But it worked great with the factory 2wd leaves and a 1 inch lift shackle. No complaints. :chillin:
  3. jerpderp
    I have a new pair of 2930s , no L/R anywhere . When I installed my 2930s, I noticed the tags have an A and a B. A is supposedly driver side and B is passenger side. Top side: Bottom side:
  4. jerpderp
    After installing the axle and lift springs, the 28mm sway bar and Warn winch mount didn't wanna play nice together. The factory end links were too short, causing the sway bar to swing forward and contact the winch mount. So I drove with no sway bar for a week. It wasn't too bad, definitely could notice the increased flex. But the truck did track funny when loaded and going over larger bumps. I felt like it wouldn't be safe in a emergency maneuver. I didn't really want to, but I had to order some longer endlinks and decided on JKS Quicker Disconnects. They are cool, I just could have spent the money elsewhere. Install was nice and straightforward, seem to be good quality like the other JKS items I've purchased.
  5. jerpderp
    But what if the production version has less chrome? Or none at all.... :eek:
  6. jerpderp
    Here's the pics and measurements I promised: Original upper rear bushing is the black one (obviously). The red bushing was one I tried to use for the lowers, however the shoulders were too wide and thick. Original upper bushing OD: 1.125 in ID: ~0.375 in |||||| Needs to be 0.625 Lower bushings OD: 1.25 in ID: ~0.625 (or close enough)
  7. jerpderp
    Thanks man! Really appreciate it. I'd recommend it. It was pretty easy, inexpensive and they ride nice. :thumbsup:
  8. jerpderp
    This would be such an easy production mod on the JKU as they did with the prototype shown. It is amazing how well they copied the old Wagoneer style, and that it actually fits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. jerpderp
    JKS: http://jksmfg.com/i-9056849-cherokee-xj-comanche-mj-1984-2001-front-lower-bar-pin-eliminator.html?ref=category:381164 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. jerpderp
    Thanks hornbrod! You had some posts that gave me this idea initially. Unfortunately after you remove the bar pin, the ID of the bushing is tiny. And for whatever reason, the upper bushing housing is a smaller diameter than the lower by ~1/8 inch. I'll take some more pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. jerpderp
    How do they ride? I can't provide a direct comparison since I swapped in a D30 for a beam axle and installed OME 2930 front coils at the same time, but my ride is much, much nicer now. Very controlled and yet still plush. Absorbs impacts with out feeling sloppy. I'm very pleased. I haven't done any off roading, as I'm still 2wd. These aren't gonna be for hardcore lifted wheelers, but if you have less than 2" lift, and want some nice shocks on a budget, check em out. Cheaper than buying 4 of the most inexpensive parts store shocks.
  12. jerpderp
    OK, now here's what you have to do: First, press out the lower sleeves on all four shocks. Take care not to damage the rubber bushings, use some lubricant to help ease the sleeves out. I used a vice and sockets initially, then bought a ball joint press and that made life much easier. :chillin: Next, press out the upper bar pin on the rear shocks. Don't worry about damaging the bushing or bar pins, they will be discarded. Next, press out the upper bushings themselves, they have a very small inner diameter and won't fit over a Comanche upper shock mount. Be careful not to damage the bushing housing. Now its time to start reassembly. It took a ton of searching and testing to find the right replacement bushings. I probably spent almost as much on bushings as I did to purchase the shocks themselves. :doh: All four rubber lower bushings will work. I never found a correct replacement lower bushing, so once again, take care not to damage the lower bushings. The upper front has the correct bayonet mounting, so if your new shocks came with bushings, you can use those. For the lower front shocks, you can press in the bar pins from the shocks already on your Comanche(the bar pins from the JK rear shocks will not work), or you can get a bar pin eliminator kit. I went with the eliminators. I felt like pressing in the bar pins could easily damage the bushings. Your choice. For the upper rear shocks, you will have to buy a replacement bushing. Prothane p/n 19-909 turned out to be a perfect fit. Lube up the outer diameter and press them in. The lower rubber bushing will slide on to the Comanche lower mount with a bit of lubrication. Here's they are installed: Front Rear Replacement Polyurethane rear upper bushing:
  13. jerpderp
    Figured I'd do an easy one for my first write up. I heard about using JK shocks on this forum, but couldn't find any real specific information. So here ya go! Any set of shocks from a JK will work. I chose to get some from a Rubicon, as they are gas charged, and it doesn't hurt that they are race car red. :yes: Takeoff JK shocks are pretty common, there are a LOT of people who lift their JK, and most have very few miles on them. First, let me give you guys some measurements so you can decide if they'll work for you: Front extended: 22.5 inches Rear extended: 23.125 (note: these upper rear bushings are NOT the correct ones I ended up using) Since I failed to get compressed lengths, here's some measurements hornbrod got from Monroe's website: Front: Compressed Length 14.020", Extended Length 21.930" Rear: Compressed Length 14.760", Extended Length 23.150" From what I've heard, they'll work for up to around 2 inches of lift. I have OME 2930 coils up front and 2wd leaves with a 1 inch lift shackle in the rear.
  14. jerpderp
    Just read a news article that said Jeep is officially adding a pickup to the line up. No details, but I'd bet they'll do the wrangler truck. I kinda dig the Comanche concept. Jeep gets a pickup truck and here's how it could look http://usat.ly/2i7Wyna Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. jerpderp
    Using the info from another thread, I measured the amount of lift the OME 2930s gave me, and it appears to only be 1.25" over 4x4 springs. :???: 9" from the frame rail to the top of the axle housing. I'm guessing its because of the winch mount, but that is only ~50# or so, I dunno. Doesn't really bother me, combined with the factory 2wd leaf springs and JKS lift shackles, the rear sits 0.5" higher, which I think is perfect. Flares measure 33"f/33.5"r off the ground through the center of the wheels. If I get an itch someday I'll buy some spacers for the front and some new leaves out back.
  16. jerpderp
    Took the plunge and installed the D30 last Monday. Went pretty smooth for the major work, however the devil is in the details. Got the old beam out no problem, got the D30 hooked up and popped the springs in. Wanted to replace the original torx upper control arm bolts with regular hex stuff, NAPA only had grade 5 stuff. Hesitantly decided they would work in the short term. More on that later. Hooked up the brakes. The lines hit the shock mounts before full lock. Turns out the lines I bought a few months ago were for a 2wd. Time for another parts run. Correct lines installed, start bleeding the system, the metering block locks out the front brakes, causing me to be utterly confused. That didn't happen when I did the proportioning valve delete. That took up more time to figure out. Bleed done, get the wheels on, set her on the floor to torque the control arms. Those grade 5 bolts couldn't make it to the spec 55 ft lbs. Stripped the threads and wouldn't back off. Sadly, I was defeated for that night. Woke up the next morning and went to Tacoma Screw and got the CORRECT grade 8 fasteners. Cut off the stripped nut and installed the new bolts. Remember kids, don't mess around with low quality fasteners for super important things like suspension components. Moment of truth. She drives like a dream! Steering wheel is off, but tracks straight. The combination of OME coils and rubicon shocks is amazing. Firm, but supple.
  17. jerpderp
    List of parts for Dana 30 install: 95 D30 Old Man Emu 2930 springs Moog coil isolators JK Rubicon Shocks JKS bar pin eliminators Old Man Emu steering stabilizer Centric brake rotors NAPA brake calipers Hawk light truck pads Brake lines
  18. jerpderp
    So I set out to continue my refresh on the junkyard D30, it was time to remove all the old ball joints. The first one I went to remove was in there pretty good. I suppose when you're in the same location for 20 years, you get reluctant to move. After I put a cheater bar on my breaker bar I ended up with this: Looked like I had hosed myself pretty good, was thinking I was going to have to cut the rest of it out. Luckily, there was plenty of meat on the bottom side to push on and I ended up pressing it out no problem. Moral of the story: don't force things with too much pressure, just beat the hell out of it with a hammer till it breaks free. After that insight, I was able to get the other 3 out without a hitch. I replaced all the ball joints with new Spicer parts, replaced the 2 control arm bushings and both U joints. The spindles from the axle had some nasty chipping on the brake pad sliding surface, so I took the ones off my parts Cherokee. I looked into getting the spindles repaired at a welding shop, but they wanted $200(!) to weld a bead over the chipped areas and smooth it out.
  19. jerpderp
    Thanks guys. I won't worry about cleaning the tubes, and since the spindles are coming off anyway, I'll get em welded up. Brakes are nice to have. ;) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. jerpderp
    I also ordered an NV3550 from a junkyard, should be here this week sometime. However while looking at the pictures the junkyard sent me, the output shaft doesn't look like its flush with the rear housing. That makes me wonder if my transfer case input shaft will mesh with that. I did some research at the Advanced Adaptors and Novak Adapt websites, and both NV3550 info pages say the output is flush. BUT Novak has an input shaft page and my T case has a short shaft and says the NV needs a long shaft. My T case is a 231 from a 90 XJ that had an AX15. So I probably need to buy another t case, or buy some parts for mine and rebuild it.. Does anyone know what shaft NV3550s take?
  21. jerpderp
    Hey all, I disassembled the Dana 30 that I'm going to use for my 4x4 swap. I changed out the axle seals, and am going to replace the U joints and ball joints since everything is taken apart. I did have a couple questions since this is my first solid front axle: The axle tubes are pretty nasty, I'm worried that when I go to reinstall the shafts, the snout/splines are gonna drag in the rust/goo/grit and make my diff unhappy. Should I clean em out? And how should I do that? I'm gonna pressure wash the whole thing in a few days. Passenger: Driver: 2nd axle question: The spindles have some pretty deep chipping where the brake pads slide. I was just gonna smooth out the area. Is this a suitable fix?
  22. jerpderp
    I also ordered an NV3550 from a junkyard in Nebraska. Wasn't too much more expensive than the AX-15s around here, has 40k less miles, a 90 day warranty and of course came out of a newer vehicle. However while looking at the pictures the junkyard sent me, the output shaft doesn't look like its flush with the rear housing. That makes me wonder if my transfer case input shaft will mesh with that. I did some research at the Advanced Adaptors and Novak Adapt websites, and both NV3550 info pages say the output is flush. BUT Novak has an input shaft page and it looks like my T case has a short shaft and the NV needs a long shaft. So I probably need to buy another t case, or buy some parts for mine and rebuild it..
  23. jerpderp
    Disassembled my new (to me) front axle. Junkyard special, came out of a 95 XJ w/ 150k. Had a nasty leak on the passenger side, there was about 1/2" of grime stuck to the spindle. So I knew it had to be stripped. Since I was already in there, and I didn't really enjoy removing the axle shafts, I decided to replace the ball joints and U joints. I'm gonna pressure wash the axle housing and passenger shaft before installing the new parts. I did get the driver side U joint replaced. I used a ball joint press, make the whole job much easier than messing with a vise and sockets. Still couldn't imagine doing all that on the trail.
  24. jerpderp
    At this point, I decided that it was time to convert to an open cooling system. I can't easily put into words how I truly feel about closed systems, but I will keep it short: keeping hot, pressurized liquid in a plastic container is bad and the engineer who made that decision should feel bad. :no: I went about ordering the radiator, cap, bottle, heater valve and all the heater hoses. Picked up a new CSF 2 row brass radiator, I hope this one lasts like the original. Fit was perfect. Bought an OEM heater valve cuz I really don't wanna mess with it ever again. Heater hoses were from AutoZone, had one issue, one of the hoses should be 3/4" on the heater core side and 5/8" on the valve side. The AZ one was 5/8" on both ends. O'reilleys had the right one. I ordered a coolant bottle from a 95 Cherokee. That thing was HUGE and didn't want to fit anywhere, so I dug into my stash and found a rear washer bottle from an 87 RX-7. I'd been saving this for years to make an intercooler sprayer, but it looks like I won't be buying a turbo car any time soon. I cut and bent the factory coolant bottle bracket and mounted the RX-7 bottle on there. Looks great IMO. Now I'm really loving that I have a radiator cap. :banana:
  25. jerpderp
    So it was time for a new water pump, thermostat/housing, and radiator hoses. Bought an A/C upper hose so I can relocate the alternator later on. Got everything installed except the lower radiator hose, working on that, and the outlet tube on the radiator came off in my hand. :( I can't be too upset, it was the original radiator, and 30 years is a good run.
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