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Pete M

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Everything posted by Pete M

  1. the trans won't bolt up, the t-case is the old 207, the front driveshaft is spindly, the rear shaft is too long, the front axle is a CAD and has the small joints. It might still be worth 200 bucks, but not for a 4x4 conversion into a 4.0 truck.
  2. If it was in pristine shape or fully restored, it might bring that level of cash. If it was cleaned up and got some basic repairs to make for a nice driver, it might bring 4 or 5. maybe. being unique and having great value aren't always the same thing.
  3. surprise of the day! we found a couple copies of "The Current", a weekly um... magazine? from 1887 in a box of items that were my grandparents. we got the best laughs out of the ads. nothing like a good ol' cure-all tonic to make you feel all warm and fuzzy. but I could help think but compare them to the more new-age cure-alls we've gone through lately; detoxes, probiotics, "vitamins" that aren't, colon cleanses, etc. Also note that sex sells, even back then what catches your eye? (I apologize that some of the print is tiny. it really is that tiny! these pages are like 10x7". I'll work on linking some bigger images and replace these if I can. either way, you will need to click on the images to make them bigger.)
  4. have you run through Cruiser's renix tips yet? should be one of the top threads in the link in my signature.
  5. sorta. there are various levels of vacuum leak and different amounts of vacuum needed to operate different things. a complete failure will do as you mention. a slight leak may do some things but struggle on others. but your issue isn't like any I remember hearing about. personally, I'm just guessing at this point. as mentioned above, it might be that your heater core is partially clogged and so the air going through the top gets hot, but the bottom stays cold.
  6. makes sense. stuffing a big v8 in an MJ will always have compromises and tradeoffs. what levels of hp are you looking for?
  7. rust doesn't really spread that fast. but I doubt it'll hurt to just hit it with a touch of paint if it makes ya feel better. light coats only. don't make any drips.
  8. I think that Driver is referring to using different headers or custom making them. plenty of LS swaps have been done now and some have guys cut the frame for clearance (one guy hacked out quite a bit!), others apparently didn't need to. I couldn't tell you what the various differences are though.
  9. ca you get the upper vents to blow cold? or are they always hot?
  10. if you're talking about the block itself, it more or less goes right in. what's gone wrong with the current motor?
  11. that only works if you know the name of the files... and they exist. turns out they didn't. I never had ai files for these particular images, but I was able to secure some better quality images from the old sticker company. props to them for holding on to them for so long. we'll see how well they work for the new guy soon. Moparbrown, feel free to try something with images in the first post. doesn't hurt to try, right?
  12. nice work and an excellent writeup! are you going to do a separate DIY thread for that?
  13. which engine? auto or manual? what year is your truck? there are a bunch of v8 writeups in the Epic Tech forum that you can peruse
  14. you mean an avatar? are you on a phone or a 'puter?
  15. just for the heck of it I looked it up in my 87-90 parts manual but it appears that the renix years didn't have that particular hole in the valve cover.
  16. one of our members (krustyballer16) is working on production of a weld-on frame brace. it's still in the design stage though. His goal is for much better fitment than the aftermarket ones currently out there.
  17. if you're ever bored one day, I'd love to see a build of the sammy. we have an "other projects" forum just for things like that.
  18. good ol' stock SUVs it really doesn't take much at all to find the approach/breakover/departure angles
  19. admittedly I've never owned a 2.5, but what exactly is the question? are we looking for a diameter of the hole? or a part number for what goes into it?
  20. I suggest the one-piece rubber pan gasket and be very careful with the RMS. brass punches only! also a double lip RMS exists if you find that there is deep scaring in the crankshaft where the single rides.
  21. are the Teraflex adjustable to tweak your alignment? what makes them special? I assume they'd be grease-able, which is nice but not a deal killer. If they are only a "heavy duty" option, I kinda agree with Darren. Balljoints just aren't a common failure point (and the couple I can think of were 30 year old originals). a good brand of stock ones should last a lifetime (unless you're jumping the truck, and even then the axle usually bends/breaks first). Moog/Dana would be my choices. to address your question, I believe that the not-knurled are the ones you'd want.
  22. I've read positive things about it in other rigs. don't remember someone using it in an MJ yet.
  23. holy crap those brackets are just... engineering art! look at all those clean bends!
  24. update: I've found jpeg versions of the images. still hunting for the ai files. once I've got usable files I'll start a new poll to get a feel for how many of each I should order.
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