Crash

I have currie steering on my renix XJ. May be selling it if I do stinky fab steering Synergy looks like a nice piece, but I do not own one.

Non-cad was on 242 equipped vehicles.

Might try GT covers. I have some dash designs covers for buckets. And although they fit, the do not have an area open where the latch is. I just cut a hole in it large enough to make it work. To keep it longer possibly, may need to stich or whatever to keep it. But mine are neoprene and fine. Fit is good otherwise.

I believe mine was a 203 xx there are different types so suffix differs. I may still have the box from mine somewhere.

I have a 3/4 blue gauge clsuter I could let go for a price or trade. Sold my last blue gauge full cluster a while ago.

Get a matching tcase

Most likely.

Got my cables today. They look solid! Thank you.

I have the same lights that I plan on putting on the MJ and possibly XJ. They look nice.

If all else fails, use those built in led bolts for your lights.

If the vehicle in question has ABS, I would consider walking away, or plan on swapping in vac booster/master cyl setup.

2WD AW4 is different than 4WD. You should be able to swap the donor AW4/tcase though. Gauges will swap. You will need CTS at rear of head for temp gauge to work, and oil pressure sending unit from donor vehicle for oil gauge to work. Basically, plug n pray.

Never heard of or used it. Amsoil AMO has zddp in it. And Valvoline VR1 does as well.

4.10 should be fine. I have 32's with 3.73 in my 88 MJ 4.0/pukegoat and it does decent (probably mostly with the F8.8 lsd) But wish I had more. When I bought the truck it had a heavy utility bed, 235/75's and 4.56's Even without the utility after I swapped a regular bed on it, it was more peppy and I liked that. I may go 4.56 for the fact that I will probably end up with 33/35's in the future. My 4wd swap is priority right meow though. I also have an XJ with 32's on it (ran 31's prior to JK wheel swap) and it has 4.10 gears with an auto and it's very decent. I say, if you find a good priced pair of 3.55 geared axles to bolt in do that and see how you like it. Otherwise, go 4.10 unless you really think you will go to a larger tire sooner than later.

My understanding as that the current Ecodiesel was supposed to be an option.

I would say no more than a thousand should be good.

I do like the prothanes better, as they are a progressive stop vs stock replacement. A little more Money but worth it, IMO.

Same here. I have a huge head and the adjustable ones just don't fit me right.That is not my specific reason, but but along the same lines as far as fit and comfort.

You linked the 97-01 versions. Can you use them? What's the difference?The late model ones 'push in' as the apparatus is not removeable. Early models you could unscrew the whole assy. But the stop can still be removed. I use prothane bumps.

Make some bed rail protectors, I'd buy some.

1-tons have extra complications. You'd want to be running at least 37" tires for clearance. I partially wish I had ordered 40s rather than 37s with my 1-ton XJ build, just for clearance. Plus they're heavy axles, so you will need to do some reinforcements on the chassis/suspension, spend more money on shocks, steering, etc. Weight in general is your enemy. Part of the reason the XJ/MJ generally wheeled circles around everything else in their day was because they were lighter to start with, especially given that they were longer than many of the comparable Jeeps; it makes a huge difference performance wise being 4000lbs with 35" tires vs 5000lbs with 35" tires. But yes, building a D44 vs a 60... 60 almost every day, just as long as you've got the tires to justify it. I already told him I think JK axles might be a good option. Would they be? I dunno. He hasn't said what size tires he wants, or if/how he plans to wheel it. Did you shave the axles for more clearance? Done properly you can have just as much clearance as a 44. David Bricker on Naxja has a narrowed D60 that has been shaved and has as much if not slightly more clearance than the original D44. I do understand the weight to a point. But aside from that the axles are stronger and you could drive into/over rocks if you choose to do so. I'm picking up a D60 FF rear for cheap, probably what I will run in my MJ eventually when I find another full width front to match.

I think they meant mechanical speedo vs elect. But you are correct.

My MJ has the GM weatherpack style plug, I'm considering finding another piece of harness or buying pigtails to 'tee' into the circuit for trailer wiring. Would make removing or changing it a cleaner install.

The braces for cad brackets won't work. The only exception is the RRO brackets, they make an MJ specific brace that comes with theirs. I have not heard many good reviews of that company, and I know Bo detests them. FWIW, of the people I know that receided product from RRO the quality looked decent. I didn't want to take the risk at the time and the RE brackets are less expensive. I run the RE kit as I posted without braces. One of the better things about the MJ vs XJ is the beefier body side LCA brackets. As far as TB/bracket go. If you do not already have a decent double shear TB I would get one. The RE setup is nice, however the price for the TB setup seems a bit much in comparison to some others. The bracket itself is reasonably priced IMO. Lots of people run IRO setup with zero issues. I have the RE setup with cross brace(no complaints)on my XJ because I got it used for a good price. I also have a spare 1660hd in good shape if you wanted to make a deal on that and buy their bracket. On My MJ I have the synergy trackbar mount and brace with some no name TB. That TB will be changing when I do my axle swap but keeping the existing mount.

For the money, I would definitely consider 60's, 60/14b, or something similar. Especially since you can fab. Typically the amount of money it takes to properly build 44's (exception being stock xj/mj/tj), You start with much stronger axles using 60's etc.