Crash

I have a 88 lwb. Most things have been put on the back burner. But I have a motivated welder..

Yokohama geolandar at, Bridgestone dueler revo, GY Wrangler duratrac. The new Fallen Who speak at3 or whatever look good. Have not run them though.

Setup your exhaust with flanges or vband clamps. And if you choose to remove cat install test pipe.

If you need to mod or weld an axle to go in, also consider an exploder 8.8 swap. Gets you rear disc, most have 3.73 lsd, some have 4.10. They are usually pretty plentiful, and decent price. Will need spacers/ adapters pending wheels. Unless you upgrade to a c clip eliminator which would get you back near mj width.

I believe I have an HO cluster from a 92, approx 150k on odo. It is in storage currently, but will attempt to check tomorrow.

Aside from what has already been recommended. Do a tape measure alignment. Adjust toe if necessary, drive it. The times I had DW, were toe, and worn tre related. First time was after a 2ish inch budget lift, adjusted toe went away. I upgraded to the IM4x4fab tie rod after that as well, along with a used RE adjustable track bar. Then, when I lifted my MJ, no matter what I did with my stock tre it had awful DW. Used my old IM4x4fab tie rod, went away. I now have a WJ D30 in the front with crossover steering.

A good quality tint.

I believe oe bulb is 2057. 1157 is a suitable replacement. Wattage is different, but more available. One filament is for taillight, other is for brake and turn. Should have 2 bulbs per side, plus back up lights. 56 is a single filament bulb, swap to dual.

If you asked this question 6,7 months ago. I had spare manual window doors. Now, I say good luck.

Removing the headlights did it for me, iirc

Swap axles with a min of 3.55 gears, your mpg and drivability will improve.

As weird as it may seem, the mpg difference is not unusual per-se. On the higher end of the spectrum. When I was dd ing my MJ.. 88 renix, 4.0, 5 spd, 3.73, 32s, bored tb, 5.0 injectors, 3ish inch lift. I was averaging 18.5. On road trips as much as 28 consistently. When I had a shorter commute it was closer to 15. City driving was closer to 13 give or take. Addon: Depending on the stroker setup, that may also be a factor in the efficiency, cam, tune, etc.

Read through thread, and apologies if I missed what I am asking. Is rca preamp output working? I don't see myself going back to stock power. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Amy of this still avail? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I would search here and on naxja forums. There are plenty of DIY/budget?decent priced "kits" or correct ways to buy/build your heep. Without going SOA in the rear (which can net 5+" of lift pending) Lifting the rear a decent amount is really the spendy part. You do not need 4+" lift to run 32's. Especially on an MJ. Cut fenders in the front with a couple inches of lift would suffice. Anything over 3" in the front, IMO, definitely needs an adjustable trackbar and should have replacement LCAs/relocated or replacement extended brake lines etc.