Strokermjcomanche Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 http://comancheclub.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/bothhands-meholdit-spanner.gif bump for reference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 That belt diagram has the years wrong. HO 91-95 used a belt routing similar to renix but with a shorter belt. 96 up 4.0L in XJ used the one on the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 That belt diagram has the years wrong. HO 91-95 used a belt routing similar to renix but with a shorter belt. 96 up 4.0L in XJ used the one on the right. RockFrog, I'm putting a '98 motor in an '89 using all bracketry from '89 (PS, alternator, A/C). Should I use the 96+ belt routing or does using the Renix brackets change things? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Use the belt routing based on the brackets you use. I have 88 brackets on my passenger side and 96+ on my driverside. The later PS arrangement with respect to the belt tensioning is a better lass problematic system IMO. If it were me I would use the '98 intake, convert the fuel rail fittings, and adapt the TPS, and run the '98's PS. (one would also need the '98's throttle cable and either bend the pedal or use the one from the' 98 as well. I just dislike the Renix TB although I do like the Renix MPFI. Then use the '89 alt/A/C. But I likes my punishment. (this is essentially what I did with my '88 except used a '99 intake manifold). Routing would be like so ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas7667 Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Here are some pics I would've found helpful repairing my mj B pillar light wiring 20170711_185954 by Lucas K, on Flickr If you file down the spade connectors on the light and remove the connector housing on your wiring harness you don't have to cut any wires. I just threw the old housings in my glove-box if I ever decide I need them. I ended up needing to replace the diode on one of my lights because I kept hooking up the lights wrong and it went pop. Hopefully this spares someone from having the same experience. Rear tail light harness plug--- These pics are from a 92 Comanche. From what I've seen online older MJs seemed to use a different connector that looks kind of like a weatherpack. I don't know who made this connector for chrysler, or where you get pins for it but you can find them in the junkyard on other cars to make a plug in trailer wiring harness. Early 90s dodge dakotas are the best source for this plug and you can find them at the firewall bulkhead. Jeep ZJ's use this connector for the fuel pump. I'll write more about it on a different thread when I finish making the harness 20170709_110029 by Lucas K, on Flickr 20170709_110049 by Lucas K, on Flickr 20170709_110106 by Lucas K, on Flickr Also a neat alternative to a stock radio that doesnt look like it came from a tron movie: 20170808_121316 by Lucas K, on Flickr s-l1600 by Lucas K, on Flickr Doesn't look too out of place and has a nice stock green backlit display that turns on with the lights. I think it has the capability to dim too but I haven't figured that out. It has Bluetooth (main reason for swapping) USB, aux, CD and gets weatherband. You can pick them up for $40-50 on ebay. Its a Panasonic Pana-Pacific CQ-BT5159U and is used by oems on semis. It uses an iso connector and the only pre made plug and play adapter I could find was P/N PC2-38-4 from europe. It also remembers the time for 30 days with no power. If you do get one you will NEED the owners manual to set it up, my only complaint about it is that it isn't as intuitive as other radios as far as messing with settings/functions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 Dash harness routing: The holes in the dash for the zip ties are 1/4". These zip ties are a good match for the factory ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Door stuck shut? Push up on this tab from in side the door. Thank me later :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 if they aren't here already: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 On May 9, 2019 at 1:01 PM, Pete M said: What year is this from? Just asking cause one of my '91s had PB8 from the factory, which supposedly wasn't a thing. Well it does according to FCA at any rate. I want to say the bits of paint sticking through where the respray is flaking off look more like they could be PQ9... but I can't run out and check cause it's parked at the welder's place right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 random pic from the internet. I don't remember if it said the year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Not sure if it’s been posted before but here’s the vacuum diagram for 86 TBI 2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 On 8/8/2017 at 1:50 PM, Lucas7667 said: Here are some pics I would've found helpful repairing my mj B pillar light wiring What's the red wire for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 12 hours ago, Virginia said: What's the red wire for? I think red is the constant power wire. tan would be the switched power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 9 hours ago, Pete M said: I think red is the constant power wire. tan would be the switched power. Dome lights are full-time power, ground-side switched. Red would be constant 12V. Tan would be a switched ground from the door switch or headlight dimmer, and black will be a full time ground (so the light comes on when you push the light to turn it on) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 10 hours ago, Pete M said: I think red is the constant power wire. tan would be the switched power. So, here's what I have. The first pic is of the wires from the existing B column light that no longer comes on. The second picture is the schematic that came with my replacement lights. I think the red is the hot wire. I'm not sure which of the other 2 would be the switch wire and the ground wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warren Mohler Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 red on A, yellow B, black C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 On 11/20/2019 at 6:33 PM, Minuit said: Dome lights are full-time power, ground-side switched. Red would be constant 12V. Tan would be a switched ground from the door switch or headlight dimmer, and black will be a full time ground (so the light comes on when you push the light to turn it on) Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virginia Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 On 11/20/2019 at 8:06 PM, Warren Mohler said: red on A, yellow B, black C Thank you. Will work on this tomorrow!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted December 5, 2019 Share Posted December 5, 2019 MJ Dana 44 down to bare housing for rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiNi Beast Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 good info. love reading pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose_XJ88 Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 I don't believe any of these pics were in this thread. Lots of little obscure pics I have collected over the years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose_XJ88 Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 And a post dedicated to just the cab back mounting of items Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White_Comanche Posted September 27, 2022 Share Posted September 27, 2022 'Continuous' photography lighting makes an excellent alternative to the usual worklights on the market. This fixture has 3 switches controlling 5 fluorescent bulbs… 1 switch controls 1 bulb, the 2nd turns on 2 bulbs, and the 3rd illuminates the remaining. This way you can control your light output. As you can see, there's no harsh shadows, large area is lit up very evenly. Plus, everything is so CLEAR. I bought this online at B&H Photo Video. Manufacturer is FOVITEC. Sometimes they can be bought in pairs, I got my single light for only $80. I’ve used it in a very hot garage, and even after hours of every bulb being 'ON' the diffuser shroud only gets slightly warm. Overall the build quality is “pretty good” for the price. The tripod is sturdy and height adjustable. The tent/light fixture is balanced. So it won’t topple over even if you extend it really high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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