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Geonovast

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About Geonovast

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    Can NOT spell Comanche

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    Male
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    Springfield, MO
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    Jeeps, Computers, Engine concepts

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    Geonovast

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  1. You'll need to get an electronic sender for the T-case, and plug it into the speedometer plug on the harness. No cable whatsoever for 91+. Earlier electronic senders (I think 91-93ish) were a sender that screwed onto a cable style sender in the T-case. If you get a newer one, you'll have to replace the whole thing (and possibly gear). As for your stumbling, check your fuel pressure before you replace anything else.
  2. I haven't tried it myself, but I did see a tip awhile back that made a lot of sense. Get 6 small zip ties, and zip tie the gasket to the pan at the corners and middle of the sides. Get it up in there, get the bolts threaded for the holes that aren't being used by zip ties. Cut the ties, pull them out, and put the rest of the bolts in. Tighten it up. I imagine it should go smoothly.
  3. I was at one of the local PnPs today for a new brake drum, and noticed that the MJ there has a D35 with 4.56 (41 9 stamped on the ring). Cover's off of it, but the inside still looks ok. Also an XJ woody with a 3.55 D44 (assuming 3.55 anyway) Their pricing can be confusing, so I'm not sure if it's $119 or $200 for them. Located on the west edge of Springfield, MO http://www.buddysupullapart.com/
  4. Once you verify that your T-case is disengaging, you should just lock the CAD and forget about it. I think your problem is that your CAD is not unlocking, not that you're stuck in 2wd. Truck parked, pull the CAD actuator off the housing, and slide the collar so that the shafts are not engaged. Put the lever in the cab to 2wd. Your front driveshaft should spin freely. If it doesn't, there's a problem with your T-case or shift linkages. Keep in mind that both the CAD and T-case have to be engaged for you to have 4wd. The CAD does not lock the two front wheels together, they will still spin independently because of the differential. An engaged CAD does not mean 4wd. If it does spin freely, lock the CAD following the DIY linked in my signature. You will thank yourself for doing so. CAD operation is not needed for 2wd/4wd, and is not present in 92ish+ or any Full Time Jeeps.
  5. Geonovast

    Jeep Ink

    I've got this (just the grill, not the word) on my left shoulder, been there for 9 years. No regrets. But, it's small, simple, and hidden most of the time.
  6. FYI, that white block thing is your ballast resistor. It quiets the pump after startup. If you ever have a problem with the pump going out but it starts fine, first thing to try is to jump those two wires. Just file that away somewhere. :thumbsup:
  7. IIRC, last time I worked with one of those, wobble extensions were my best friend.
  8. Already done, did all of your ground refreshing except the C101. Payday will result in some cleaner to get that taken care of.
  9. Wires were replaced at the start, not new, but from my XJ, which were newish (within the last 3 years), and it was running just fine. Looks like the TPS did it. Took it down to Branson and back today without issue, although it was cooler and rainy. Won't really call it until I can get a good drive when it's up near 90 degrees again, which is where it was when this started. Am still going to do the suggested vac test and get a schrader valve in there.
  10. I ordered a new TPS. I'll listen to the fuel pump after the next drive, but she idles fine and revvs ok when not under load. Not ruling it out, but given the major voltage change in the TPS, I'm really leaning towards that being the problem. Shouldn't be too hard to add in a permanent schrader valve at the throttle body with all those fittings in there, gonna do that regardless.
  11. I can't find the schrader valve on the thing to check for fuel pressure. Is it hidden somewhere?
  12. 88, 2.5, 4 speed 2wd. Picked it up last December, and it's been a perfect angel until now. First time it acted up,it was after an hour of driving on the highway, once I started getting into town, it had a massive loss of power over 2000 rpm. Acts pretty much normal any slower than that. Feels like it's missing, or not getting enough fuel. A week before it happened, I made an identical trip into Branson, and it was fine. Now, it's getting worse. It doesn't take even 10 minutes before it starts acting up. I did cruiser's ground refreshing, except the C101, as I don't have any cleaner. The only ground that even looked iffy was the taillight. New plugs, new-ish wires I stole off my now parked XJ. Cap and rotor look near new. It was suggested I look at the IAT, and resistance values aren't exact, but pretty close to the chart Hornbrod put up in this post: http://comancheclub.com/topic/41105-86-25-periodically-runs-poor/page-2 Checked the TPS, and I was getting 0.455 volts with a 4.96 volt input at idle (key on, not running). Adjustment procedure tells me it's supposed to be 0.843 volts (17%). After my ground refreshing, I adjusted it as far as it would go, to about 0.740 volts. Took it for a test drive, and other than a slightly higher idle at first, it acted the same way it had. After it got almost undrivable, I pulled over, and checked the IAT and TPS again with it hot and running. IAT was normal, but my idle TPS output was about 0.340! Is this a dying TPS, heat soaking problem, or is it expected to change with temp? 02 sensor on the thing looks brand new.
  13. I repair banking equipment, like currency counters, receipt printers, check scanners, paper shredders. Different every day, I get to take things apart and put them back together, and my boss and co-workers are really laid back. I love my job.
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