Rockfrog

yep, and a lot of more modern TB's do also. technically the retainer used on the 4.0L's is considered more of a carb connector type I'm gonna fart around with this one for a bit, I've also toyed with the idea making my own intake but that's a crap tonne of math. Thinking along the lines of the Ford 4.9L intake. but then that would require a smaller throttle body. at the same time I'm also reworking my cold air intake (yes, it's an actual true cold air intake) to allow some amount of warm air in for winter warm ups, and reworking my hood for a more aesthetic appearance (so new scoop design, and that requires a new layout for the intake filter housing). Another project that eats my time is a temperature controlled PWM fan control. one that's actually programmable and not just the generic X fan comes on now and Y fan comes on 10 degrees later. I want something that will receive temperature data, and output that to a readily available OEM fan control module (which require a PWM input), and have the ability to run each fan at a completely differing set of variables. And not spend $300+ for a simple parallel control that cost about $10 to produce.

torque is a measure of what the engine can do (WORK), gearing makes it easier to apply that work, and then HP is simply how fast that work can be applied (WORK over time). I have thought about moving to a wideband, but haven't been bothered to yet ... I still get about 18mpg with my road pig rolling on 35's so not too bad at all, not the 22mpg it used to get as a 2wd though. but I didn't build (still am) to roll down the highway efficiently, it just has to as a daily driver.

and in case anyone is wondering what this is all about ... it's all about a cheaper more accessible TPS option ... with some farting around in the mix. I know the larger TB has downsides, and I want to explore that, as my current setup lacks throttle response off the line (probably due to the 99+ intake and the HO throttle body size compared to plenum volume argued against using stock 1990 Auto Renix tuning all in an 88 5spd). The throttle body and other crap is simple ramblings, and I do weird stuff ... ADD and curiosity make for some wild trips. I also plan to play with swapping intakes (back to a log) and possibly adding or reducing plenum volumes to both at some point to see what happens. I have no real desire for HP my aim is pure and simple Torque ... but i also happen to drive something (yup, Ratmanche is my Daily) that is 34 years old and half the parts attached to it are long out of production, and what is still available is of questionable quality.

so working through this issue, making the adapter for the TPS is fairly straight forward ... simple sliding block arrangement. Since I'm in the Dorms at school (3rd tr Millwright) for the next two weeks, actually making the block will have to wait. I MEAN i would just bang it off but might run into issue with the residency. so i have at least worked out the template for the adapter, yay. so next issue is high volume throttle ... usually makes for a twitchy throttle ... but I've never seen anyone address the issue. the throttle actuation needs to slowed down to compensate. As it so happens the 4.7L throttle body has a partial compensation built in, the throat is reduced and then expanded to increase velocity (thereby reducing pressures, and then increases it as flow drops on the back end) so controls the issue to almost 1/4 throttle where the butterfly unshrouds and the fun begins, this is usually removed as it's looked at as a flow restriction ... well, it is, but for a reason. This part we keep. The next issue is opening speed ... instead of retaining the same pivot point, designed to move a smaller throttle blade at a specific rate, we need a longer distance between pivot and actuation point. extending the lever. BUT, we have to stay within the range of travel allowed by the throttle cable. So that's the next trip. If that doesn't get me the results I want, plan B is a Jeep Liberty throttle body ... same mounting pattern and design, but it brings the problem of the two pin IAC (basically a single acting spring return linear actuator instead of the 4 pin double actuated IAC we all know). thankfully the stock 4.0L solve that issue with a removable IAC housing. So plan B includes remote mounting and IAC ... which then opens up an almost unlimited range of throttle bodies available. Hi, my name's Dave, I do dumb $#!& so you don't have to go past the "I wonder if" stage ... it's OK, I talk to my self alot anyway. I'll drop some pictures when i get some time.

Ok, for the last 13yrs or so I've always been led to believe that only the Renix TPS reads a climbing voltage signal. That HO reads a descending voltage signal. And that we HAD to use the Renix TPS. Well that's just simply not true. The 91+ HO TPS reads exactly the same was as the Renix TPS. They changed the way the TCU reads the signal. Also nearly every TPS out there reads nearly identically. There are ones that rotate left, ones that rotate right, but for the most part they all read 0-5V. Honda, GM, Jeep/Dodge, Ford .... Here's the rub, they start at different points in that range. HO starts at 0.2V, GM is between 0.5-0.7v blah, blah, blah. They all end at ~4.8v minimum at WOT. So with that little tidbit, I aim to go on a search, and modify as i go, to find my cheap sensor, and make the bastard adjustable. Not just the usual hog stuff out and modify the sensor type hacks. I want drop in, adjust and go. On that note, i have been using a GM sensor for some time, about 7yrs or so now. Gm 2.8L applications, TH32 for the renix thottle body, and TH47 for an HO throttle body. They rotate opposite to each of other. The sensors were inexpensive, at least they used to be. Prices are climbing, and the sensors are old tech as it were. Same as the TH258 used 87-90. So, the GM Vortech TPS is cheap, and so is the dodge/jeep 4.7L sensors. I'm planning to add a 4.7L throttle body at some point as well anyway, so ... Gonna play with this one a bit, modify the mount and home fab a bracket to mount and allow for adjustment. Two birds one stone. Unfortunately it's going to be a dead end at some point as TPS prices will eventually climb again. They are the dodo these days as new throttle bodies are all fully integrated these days so no replaceable TPS. But I'm gonna run with it for as long as I can. Should be simple enough, we'll see whatbi end up with for a bracket, but it looks like most TPS's are fairly similar in mounting and actuation. Especially the choices i currently have in hand (91-95, 96-98, 99+ 4.0L, GM 4.3L Vortech i think late 90' to early 2000's S10 but also appears to ve current-ish for LS as well, and finally the not so well loved 4.7L dodge/Jeep used on nearly every V6/V8 since about 97). This is what I've had for at least 7yrs now, swapped a wire around in the connector, made an adapter with little more than a hacksaw, handfiles and a hand drill. So the new path should be just as simple. Anyone see any fault to this line of thinking? Sorry Automatic guys, i have no way around the dual outlet TPS thing, but that won't be an issue for the HO guys. So once again, this is mainly just a Renix problem as usual. But dammit, I'm gonna keep her running till i get burried in her. 😁

I'm not worried about the harness side that is easily changed. More so, the actual O2 sensor itself. I've already rerouted the stock harness for an HO style header and have loads of extra length there.

Been burning through O2 sensors, NTK has changed and they don't seem to last. Has anyone tried using the 2.5L O2 sensor? It appears to be the older ceramic type with a shorter lead and a male plug, easy to accommodate that. Or is there more of a difference?

When you go to replace it, use a TJ rear tracbar bushing. They used a larger 1/2" bolt size.

Started in 91, just to update the info in this thread.

When ordering parts, 87-90 are identical as far as the motor goes, there little to no difference on all the other parts, and those that differ are factory upgraded/superceded parts (thebdistributor is one, the 89-90 having less leaking issues than the 87-88). 2686 is the coreect head casting used from 87-90 53005535 is the correct Block casting used from 87-90 It is possible the motor was replaced with a newer motor in better condition. But other than a newer build date than the original, it is identical in every way to the 88 motor.

Those wires run to a connector (or at least used to) that winds up coming out up by the heater hoses on the firewall. Comes up through in a 2 wire harness past the starter. Search thatvgeneral area and you should find either a 2 pin weatherpak connector hanging down, or a chopped up harness coming from under the trans tunnel.

Aaaaand ... In the spirit of holy crap has it been that long ... Where to begin, just swapped on a set of 98 XJ manual crank doors, reworked some of the engine bay layout, mocked up the intake piping (sorta PVC-ish until the piping comes in amidst the COVID delays). Dropped a really rough passenger side cowl rise hood, and yeah it's gonna need some serious body work to look OK. Also swapped in a Liberty NP242 behind the AX15. This brings SYE equivalent beef to the table for minimal layout. Downside - no more speedo drive. 32 spline output front and rear (with no necking down, just one, big, solid shaft). So, now I'm working on a new dash with a gps speedo as the main attraction. Just got laid off so no better time to deal with that rotted out driver side floor pan, and fab 3-link mounts.

Hello guys and gals, I'm on the lookout for a bench seat cover in grey, need the lower and upper, seat I have has no headrests. The specifics. Needs to be shipped to Canada. Yeah, it'll cost me, I know. Looking for just the covers not the entire seat assembly. Looking for Grey, or Black, but will consider Blue. Condition is my biggest concern, I have a ratty old cover currently so not interested in another. Currently rebuilding the seat foam and reconditioning the seat frame so willing to wait for a decent set. Yeah, I'm that weird dude going from buckets to a bench. Anyone have anything? Thanks.

1310 Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I'm interested in learning mor about that external voltage regulator. I have a 136A WJ alt I want to toss onto my 88. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Anyone know what "Logic Ground" is supposed to mean? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Board looks to be unscorched, and in good shape for having been sitting some time (I was given the jeep a while back, drove it on/off the trailer, but no registration makes it parts only. Several of which currently make Ratmanche move. Once I figure the pin outs, I can at least test it out. I wanted to put center dome lights in the MJ, this just seems a more fitting, and better looking set. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Dug out my old 91 electrical FSM, and found wiring digram codes that match what I have, so that's a start. Looked in my 89 FSM and it only lists the SJ overhead, nothing for the 60/70 series (XJ/MJ) So, looks like I needs to start digging. Already located the temp sensor pins so that's easy, next I guess is what's input power and what's not really needed on the plug. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I did find this, and the circuit board has a 1987 date code on it. Further research has led me to beive the consoles are the same up to 1995, possible 1997 when the design changed. Wiring is easy but reading the diagrams, not so much. Looks like I might need to grab the back half of the console possibly for further internal parts. The diagram references a compass module. I di grab the temp sensor and about 6' of pigtail so that's an easy one. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So was pulling parts off a 93 XJ with all, and I do mean all, the bells and whistles. It had a power sunroof, so the overhead console was a two piece. Meaning the forward section was perfect size for the Comanche. So, anyone have info on how to wire this gem in? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

One of two things will make that light shine bright. The shuttle in the distribution valve has shifted - fluid loss, most likely to the rear circuits (you probably would have already noticed if it was to the front). The parking brake switch has grounded. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Should work just fine, 242's only came stock behind an AW4, and mine's now living behind an AX15. The "medium length" input is rare, the short is the most common. Both the AW4 and the AX15 have plenty of room for either, and the short will work with either. The Long is a ZJ (Grand Cherokee) thing. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Sway bar is four bolts at the uniframe, all easily accessible without moving anything. Upper control arms, lower control arms, ball joints, wheel hubs, steering interlink, tie rods, drag link, all accessible without touching the motor. If your doing all that might as well just pull the axle right out as well. Chilton's, Haynes ... All manuals made to send you to a mechanic. Had a Chilton manual, with the wrong firing order printed in it, ruin my day back in 1992. Common issue. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So, recently did a tune up, swapped the stock style Renix plugs for those meant for the later HO (seeing as I have a 97 TJ motor currently). This rose the question of the differences between projection plugs (TJ motor) and non projection plugs (Renix) and then the additional issue of heat range (RC9 vs RC12). The old plugs looked OK, even color and no fouling after a year. But the new plugs seem to run a bit better (possibly more to do with the new cap/rotor/wire?). So I am asking for the advice of those more in the know on this one. 1988 MJ 1997 4.0L Ax15 Renix MPFI 00 intake and TB 94 exhaust Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk