Rockfrog

Honestly, not a clue. Was a "take it if it fits" free in a farmers field canopy. Had to wash a few years of spiders and rodents out when I got it home. I tried goofing the info on the data plate but got nothing yet. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well ... Let's see ... Swapped the 2.5L TB BA k on for a few weeks, drove fine, nothing special to report. My IAT was failing so no mpg related results due to excessive fuel gulping as a result. Drilled out one of the manifold parts and retapped to 3/8"NPT and installed the GM IAT. Swapped back to the 4.0L throttle body at the same time. Soldered my REM jumpers in and wired up my in/out adapter to the aux fan relay. Set the fan to 210 on/190 off. Seemed about right to me as I really only need the fan for towing purposes. Had a warmup issue that wasn't a stuck thermostat, more a simple cold air and nothing in the bay to make heat quickly (remember it's 5spd, no A/C truck). Just taking it's time getting up to temp in the winter was all. Went with the old "Five Star" solution which seems to have lessened the issue. Now I just have to figure out why the airflow almost stops when I switch to warm. All good if I leave it cold. Have a feeling the wasps I killed this summer made a nest on my heater core ... Buggers! I killed a swarm of them back in August that were nesting inside the fender gap at the cowl (had all the seam sealer cupped away at the time). Guess that dash swap is definitely going to happen this spring then, not doing next winter chilled again. Made a "medium sized" console out of a broken full console. Going to make my own rear section with better cup holders and storage. Never really liked the factory layout anyway. Also found a set of fake wood trim (upper door strips and dash bezel) to match my uppity door panels finally. So I'll be restoring-ish those in prep for install. And I finally found a set of 2dr Laredo seats ... Picking them up tomorrow ... They need cleaning ... But I have everything to re-cover and refoam them. SCORE! Since I'm still using Tapatalk (yeah, yeah, I know) the random picture swarm will now follow. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Went to install the new GM IAT today ... It's 3/8" NPT threaded, old IAT is 1/4" NPT ... Did I get the correct sensor (AC Delco 213190) in the box? Just wanted to make sure before I pull the throttle body and drill/tap the manifold (2000 intake has only two 1/4" NPT ports). My pigtail has two black wires, does anyone know which side of the new sensor is input and which is output? Or does is matter with this one? Thanks.

I ground them flush, then drilled new holes in line with the flares holes (so where the studs were) and used bolts/washers/nuts to retain my flares. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Got me a free canopy this week, seems to fit ok so far. Needs a serious cleaning and de-nesting. It's a wee bit narrow, but length, cab end angle and height are perfect. Al the glass is there, and overall she's in good shape. Just need to fix, clean and lube the read door T-handle. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Check the relays, Putco relays aren't exactly high end (or even low end). Swap relays and see it it changes anything. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

If I have to use 3/8" pipe thread, I'll probably just put it where the ECT would usually be. I was hoping there might be a 1/8" pipe threaded switch. Looking for the easy answer in a jeep world ... just not possible. Was hoping to avoid draining all the Coolant again. Thanks all. I'll see what Amazon.ca has to offer. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Oops, missed that one. OK, so he really just needs a hub as stated then, at worst case he'd need new hub bolts if he has to grind them off. Even still, a complete axle can be had for that $150 ... When I converted to 4wd, in the end it was cheaper to find a complete 95 axle than it was to source a pair of pre-89 knuckles for the convenience of reusing my stock brakes. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

If he has a 2wd it uses standard wheel bearing and not a hub, but same deal, parts are available. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Got my REM v4.1 installed today. Going to figure a means to permanently mount it inside the ash tray. Swapped in a newer TPS and IAC ... Was having high rpm idle issues ... One instance hit 4k ... that was a bad day. Manually shifted the tcase into full time 4wd and went for a test run. Works great, still have to sort out the linkage ... Have an old Boostwerks kit around somewhere. My fuse box is falling apart slowly. Lost dash lights again, turns out the gauge lights tabs broke off, temp fixed it and will have to revisit that one. I have a donor 88 XJ harness in mint shape for parts. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

2wd or 4wd? Not that it matters, any knuckle from a Dana 30 up to and including 1989 will match. 2wd matches to 2wd, 4wd to 4wd 2wd - didn't change until 93 IIRC. 4wd - 1990 and up will be the Chrysler knuckles ... To use those you would need to grab knuckle, caliper, rotor ... And such. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Been searching for a couple days now, Does anyone know what temperature the idiot light switch goes on/off at? Just wondering if I can use one as a fan switch ... My radiator doesn't have the port for the stock one. My 88 MJ has a 97 TJ motor and the ECT and Guage sender have been relocated to the thermostat hosing. I do have an extra 1/8" NPT port in my upper radiator hose (I use a bleeder block midway). Or, I can use the head port. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, but the 91-early 92 were an adapted VSS, it screwed onto the same speedo cable drive base as the earlier ones used. It also had a direct wire line to the speedo. The late 92 up were Th one piece VSS and the signal passed through the ECM before being directed to the speedo. One of my pet projects is using the early VSS as a base for a wired speedo conversion (along with an HO fuel sender swap one day after). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The '97 MAP is used has actually improved my milage numbers ... Be it made it China or USA or Mexico ... All I know is it was a stock part sitting on a motor (in a TJ) for about 5yrs in buddies yard (where I grabbed the motor from). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The hub nut is 6mm ... The SAE equivalent is 1 7/16" (had to pick one up recently for my 3/4" bar when the nut was ... Infuriating). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Newer seats have a flat base and mount pattern on the seat. The earlier seats were curved on the seat frame and pan. I've swapped both 2dr and 4dr XJ seats from 89 up to a 94 with nothing more than unboting the seat bracket from the seat itself and swapping them over. I do have a set of the double adjustable XJ brackets I want to modify at some point to put in the MJ though. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well damn. Got the slave bled properly, and of course, now the master is leaking. Any suggestions on a good reliable master cylinder? Last one was a LuK brand master cylinder, get the same? Going to see if I can get a proper bleeder screw to fit on the 94+ slave (it has a bleed port but just a tapered plug). Picked up a mini console, and a 4 cyl coolant bottle so some reworking is coming soon. Raised the rear 1", and recentered the steering wheel, or so I thought. Now it's canted to the other side, one day I'll get it right. Found some nice front only seat covers and had to slightly modify the Laredo seats to fit them. At least they'll keep the seats clean. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Specs for the 97-03 MAP sensor (probably goes right through to 06 but can't confirm). http:// http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep/4.0L/map-sensor-diagnostic-tests-2. To paraphrase the above page ... With the key On and no vacuum applied to the MAP sensor your multimeter should display: 0 in Hg - 4.8 V (this is no vacuum applied to the MAP sensor). Apply Vacuum. As you apply vacuum, your multimeter should read: 5 in Hg - 3.9V. 10 in Hg - 3.1V. 15 in Hg - 2.1V. For the pre 97 I've found it has a 5.0v reference (+/- 0.5v) with a standing pass through signal (so reference voltage) with no vacuum applied and reducing voltage to 1.2v at hot idle. Again, all +/- 0.5v, but I suspect if you test with applied vacuum instead of the less constant hot idle method ... The values should line up (assuming a roughly 18 in Hg vacuum at hot idle and the given 0.5v variance). As I mentioned, haven't noticed any bad side effects and it also cured a persistent hesitation that was previously present with the old motor and 4.0L throttle body (so prior to me trying the 2.5L throttle body which makes the 2.5L a viable experiment again that I might try later). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Looking at the specs, they both do exactly the same thing. Produce a reducing voltage with increasing vacuum. Both start at the approximate 5V reference and reduce accordingly. Seems the specs for the MAP sensor remained the same through production, same as the IAC (with only the late model pin change in 99/00 to cause any issues). One small victory. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Completely got rid of my off idle hesitation. One my REM arrives (v4. 1) I'll have a better idea of how things are meshing. I also modified a pre 96 Throttle body to have a vacuum port at the base, just in case I have to go back. I can simply wire the correct plug and make a bracket off the TB mounts to hang it there. One less long intrusive vacuum line. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Oh, and let's not forget the "I'm back on the road" shot. Paints going to need some work and my rear window is leaking along the top edge. Going to have to have the rear window re-installed, properly this time. For now duct tape is keeping me dry. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So let's see .... New B-pillar trim, painted charcoal grey. All trim above the lower doorsill trim was painted charcoal grey, below was rocker guard black. The center console got rocker guarded and all other additional adding were painted charcoal grey. Made my grey Laredo seats and got them installed. Wired in the amps, switched the two 5.25" speakers for a single 6.5" sub and a dedicated mini amp. Put the front suspension together and torqued it all up. Got three days of driving before the original "get me moving" fix on the hydraulic slave line came apart. Ironically just before I picked up the part meant to eliminate the issue. Like a block away (was on the way to pick up my fittings from Novak). The Novak fitting will allow me to use a stick Renix replacement line when I get around to it. Swapped back to a 4.0L (58mm) throttle body and rewired to used the 96+ MAP sensor ... Prior I had a hesitation off idle I think was likely due to a failing MAP sensor, but I wasn't getting any noticeable improvement (mpg) by running the more stock size 52mm 2.5L throttle body ... So, two birds one stone. Pictures are in no particular order ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Where'd you find those? That's actually a nice look. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Blower motor works again, turned out the fuse was blown, but wasn't. Weird, was heated and corroded and passed no voltage but hasn't actually blown. So, technically everything works again. Started working on the speaker box for behind the seats. Will be using 4dr XJ Laredo seats this time. So I figured use the space before I start tossing crap back into Limbo. Should help me keep the old girl clean. Made it so the speaker faces are modular and easy to replace ... Just used what I had for speakers for now, I'm no audiophile, but I do like my road tunes. Just have to figure out where to mount the Amp now. Theft is not a concern, unless they take the whole truck the box isn't going anywhere. I made sure of that. Used canopy tape to hopefully reduce body vibes some. Replaced the torn lower shifter boot with one from a mustang. Reworked the console mount a teeny bit. Had to order new upper B-pillar trim since mine were hose by the PO's hack-tastic speaker installs. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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