Rockfrog

With the 4.0L TB I ran on the previous motor, I was averaging 18mpg running between Duncan and Campbell River once a week. With the old Renix TB I was seeing 21 mpg on the same trip. Which is kinda what got me thinking. Easy enough to swao so I figured now was a good time to try. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Easiest way would be to start with an HO cluster and go backwards with it. Mounting the fuel Guage is the hard part, but can be accomplished. The speedo can be driven using a 91-92 sending unit as they drove the speedo directly, the later 93 and up ran through the ecm and the signal is different from the sender. Tach is easy 4cyl or 6 cylinder the signals are the same. Temp, oil pressure, and volts are all the same guages and mount the same, work the same. I have all three US guages from a 92 cluster in my stock 88 cluster. I was actually working on this very project a while back but got sidetracked. It's on my list of things to finish before I die. A list which seem to grow increasingly longer ... And that's just for the Comanche. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

HO throttle body with Renix TPS ... well, same style TPS I converted to the GM 2.8L TPS a while back. Same sensor just a different pinout is all ... and a boat load cheaper. Third picture still has the old renix tps though. I made the adapter using basic hand tools, hacksaw, files, a hand drill and hand taps. The actuator is a 9/32" (or something like that) socket hacked short and a chunk of Allen Key pressed into a hole I drilled. Pretty easy to make. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Mine was 1/4" on that bolt .... And yeah it's a pain to get the angle right. I have to go through my fuse box periodically as a little corrosion shuts down whole circuits. And those old AMC boxes like to corrode. Had more than a few times where I lost dash, turn signals, Wipers or some other equally important items, to have the fix be a simple pull fuse, clean blades and reinsert. FYI - that knock sensor isn't broken, just the plastic cover is, if you can get it back on it's all good. Best Is to replace it, but mine has had the plastic body held on by tape for about a year now. They still make the replacement part though, but it a slightly different style. Maybe I'm just too damn cheap to admit I should replace mine. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yep, what he said ... I had to reply back my whole rear circuit about a year ago when it all crumbled to dust. Tried to use as many standard lengths as possible to make future replacements easier (less custom lengths and extra flaring ... Call me lazy). It was either that, or bulk coils and a crap ton of time with the faring kit (that's a big nope for this putz). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So this happened today. And looks like I haven't update poor old Ratmanche's build in a while or twelve. For the last few weeks I have been assembling parts, cleaning said parts and getting ready for the driveline swap. 2wd go bye bye, hello 4wd with flavour. Engine is from a 97 TJ, AX15 from a 93 XJ, NP 242 from a 92 XJ, front axle is from a 95 ZJ, added a 1.5" spacer to the fronts, seeing how it sits. If I like it I'll pull the springs from my XJ and swap them in. I have 6" springs to go into the XJ anyway. Lucked out and my JY ZJ CV axles came with new unit bearings, scored knuckles and brakes for $30. Tossed in new Ball joints "since I was" but I think I may have killed the driverside axle seal ... Have to see when I fill it up. Easy enough to fix later on anyway. Be while yet before she sees the pavement again. With this motor I chose to step back in a way. Used a 2.5L throttle body since I was curious how it would effect things. Seeing as it's the same bore as the stock Renix TB. Hoping I can get back into the 20's mpg wise ... something I haven't done since the 4.0 HO TB/head and 99 intake went on (been averaging about 18mpg with power on the upper end). Thinking I might help things by keeping the intake velocities higher going into the 99+ manifold. From what I've gathered, the 97+ dual pattern cam, and stock sized throttle body, should work with the newer manifold to keep the power down low, sacrificing a few HP off the top. I can live with that, I rarely push her past 3200 run anyway. Easy enough to swap back to the 4.0L throttle body anyway. And the 97 TB has the MAP mounted off the TB ... so two birds one stone if/when I swap it back. Still a bunch of interior work and wiring bits to sort (going to run the wiring through the 97's wiring channelfor a cleaner look). I want to clean things up under the hood. Might get to swapping a dash in (have a 92 parts XJ with a mint dash) but may jam and just get it driving again ... I miss driving my old tart. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

That would make sense, as I have been using a GM TPS on my Renix for the last couple years now. Was from 2.8L EFI 86-96 or so. All it requires was rearranging the wires in the plug. So the 5spd TPS now costs me $25. It would seem AMC basicly used GM sensors, either with a reoriented pin out or as they arrived. Likely to retain some form of proprietary parts in the mix. Haha, just noticed this one is nearly a year old, still good info to keep current. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

When the spring in my master cylinder snapped, my clutch would engage in the first inch of travel, and release close to the floor. New master fixed the issue. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Man, I can't wait for the next release, I missed it this time around as I was away at work. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I do as well. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

When I still used my stock doors I had to replace the door set. Searched ebay. Any set from an 84-90 XJ/MJ will work. Set I bought swapped in fine and worked great until I tossed the doors a few weeks ago. Can't verify whether a YJ set will work but they used the same or similar GM lock sets until 1990 as well. I have since swapped to newer doors and column for the Chrysler single key. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

My Renix never had crush, I actually kept that section of the exhaust when I pulled the stock system. All the HO's I have seen had the crush at the flange. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Did you add the extension? If not the angle will be steep. You have to place the trans case in 4lo, handle to 4lo, install and set length, and then it'll still be a rough grab into 4lo. Did it on my buddies 94 5spd 4.0L ... That was without the extension before they had the manual kit. It was steep on angle so getting into 4lo was a grab and yank affair. The auto has more distance so the angles are just right on the link. Looks like the newer 5spd kit is just the 242 kit which includes a shift lever extension to reduce the steep angle. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

This is great, been thinking about using the newer motor/trans from a 2k XJ in my 88, just needed the pinout. I'll probably just change the connector style at the same time to the newer one. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Bought the resin skull off ebay, drilled and PL3000'd a 10mm all thread join in place. Really nice feel to it. Thinking of getting it engraved with the shift pattern Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The 2.5L used in the MJ/XJ/YJ/TJ was an AMC design derived from the 4.2L in line six. Ironically the 2.5L was produced by more or less removing the 2 middle cylinders from the 4.2L. The later 4.0L was created by adding them back into the 2.5L. The 2.5L Iron Duke used in S10's was only used in the CJ 5/7's and that was a GM motor. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The newer wheels have a 6.5" backspace, most pattern adapters are 1.25" thick, meaning ... They reduce the wheels backspacing to 5.25" or pretty much stock backspacing. I ran a set for a while before I switched to Charger wheels. No pictures of 245/70r17's but I do of 255/75r17's Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Harness? If I'm right he's talking about the side door mirrors everyone except me and a select few hate. Not the standard wing mounted mirrors, but the literally mounted to the side of the door ones. To answer the question, inside the mirror it a ball and spring assembly, if it's that rusted, replacement is about the only real option. Ford used the same style mirror so check the JY for good mirror heads, or they can be purchased new from most parts stores. They won't be totally correct, but will be a close match. The mirrors off a Ranger will be near the same style, with the F-series being slightly larger. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Your volt meter reads whatever voltage remains AFTER the blower, wipers and (to some degree) headlight draw. There are others pulling it down but th big one is the blower. Shut it right off and the reading will go up. If not, the blower speed connector is most likely melted somewhat and you are seeing the results of resistance. Mine does the exact same thing. Has had extra ground for a few years now. It's not a ground issue, it's an overloaded brown wire issue. The Guage just shows what there after all the draw down due to the way it is wired. We talked a few months back about adding a relay off the brown wire to the blower and another to the Wiper circuit, which are the two main loads on that brown wire. Which in theory should allow a closer reading at the guage due to less overall load sucking voltage. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Core the cat, and install an 02 sensor elbow in the rear O2 sensor bung (then re-install the O2 sensor). This will create enough differential in reading that even OBD II won't throw a code. The rear simply monitors the variation in reading between the first O2 sensor and the second O2 sensor. I also own a 2000 XJ, wanna guess how I know this works? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The dealership orings are still a standard Buna oring. I've been using standard orings for my tcase, and my OFA for years now. I pay $11 for the dealership oring and have to wait for two weeks while they have it shipped from Washington. I can go to my local NAPA and get the same oring for 85c. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The oring is available from the dealership. But it is also a standard size oring. If the oring is damaged or missing it'll piss out the VSS hole everytime the vehicle is in motion. I have never had to use RTV for this. Just a fresh oring. Easy fix. Keep the oil topped, it may survive if not too damaged. Quick fix is to find a used case and swap parts. The 242 changed little until they tossed the gear driven VSS for a hall effect VSS (but internally still similar enough to use parts). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well, 30% is the actual number, based off the figures from Hayden's publishings. 60% of engine speed (stock XJ/MJ) against 90% engine speed for ZJ/TJ fan. So, 30% more fan speed ... as to how that equates to actual airflow ... dunno. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Not sure but I have a few so I'll see what I can do to check. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

A 99 model would have had the hex socket plugs for drain and fill (as can be seen in Eagle's original post picture). The one in the picture above uses the larger hex plug (1 3/16" but it is actually metric hex - thread is M22) that was used in the earlier cases. This again, was a change made around 95-96 and both changes likely coincide with the change from internal to external slip yokes. The location of the switch changed, the switch itself did not. As for th rubber plug, that again was up forward, by the range lever, and was used on all model years to plug the access hole to the range mode roll pin which is generally removed during disassembly (although with patience this step can be skipped). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk