Rockfrog

Nitro rotors are just over 1/8" smaller diameter (0.131") but all other specs seem to match interesting find. At 302mm they are still a full 22mm (7/8") larger than the stock brakes. I think we may have a new winner with no drilling required. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

As for the GM and Ford thing ... That was typical of the AMC era (Any Motor Corp) they pretty much used whatever was handy. Most 4.2L use d the Ford Duraspark ignition and distributor ... The 4.0L is a round about revamp/redesign of the 4.2L (well ... the 2.5L I-4 was directly designed off the 4.2L and the 4.0L was designed off the 2.5L - essentially a 2.5L with 2 cylinders added). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

If you want to fix that leaking distributor ... Get one from and 89 or 90 and swap it in. Motorcraft made the stock Renix distributors. Anyway, the leaking is the result of worn shaft bushings. I chased this around for a few weeks until cruiser mentioned there was an issue with the earlier dizzy's. The only gasket is the small paper base gasket, I didn't find any orings when I tore my old one down. Replacing the gasket will not solve a leak inside the dizzy body, that oil is being pushed up the main shaft. 87-88 are most prone to this, the 89-90 were changed to address the leaking issue. I recently had to deal with this myself. My 88 dizzy only got worse and worse until I replaced it with one from a 90. Now it doesn't leak at all. Keep the internals from the old dizzy though as they will be good spares. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My guess is bent sway mounts. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 2000 XJ had no cooler other than the radiator cooler from the factory. I never had it overheat, even pulling my old tent trailer or my quad trailer up steep island grades. I only put a large external cooler on it when it became a trail rig. I always kept it full. And the trans fluid was always bright red. In my opinion an overheating AW4 in normal driving conditions indicates a problem overlooked, and not an AW4 is prone to overheating issue. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 2000 XJ has WJ knuckles and brakes, stock master/booster and prop valve still. New calipers will come with the mounting brackets. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

2" lift, 32" tire, 2wd MJ only rubs lower control arms at full lock. And I run a TJ sway bar. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Should work fine on a 2wd. Don't forget calipers, I'm not one to trust used calipers. WJ stubs will be from a CV shaft, or use a YJ, MJ, TJ, ZJ, XJ stub .... Splines and dimensions are apparently the same. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Leave the ears on, they don't interfere with anything, and make it even easier to separate at hub change time (pipe through ears). I guess that makes my 2000 2wd stubs worth something then? When I finally convert to 4wd I'll toss them up. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yes the stub shafts are need to put pre-load on the bearings. Otherwise the hub will grenade in short time. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Sure you don't have a wiring issue? Trace the wires coming off the VSS, or possibly it's a cluster issue. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

1. Eliminates the slip yoke, preventing oil loss during a failure. Reduces vibration due to poor driveline angle - this one doesn't really matter with an MJ's mile long driveshaft. SYE is more a short wheel base need, optional for the MJ. 2. 31's around town, 4.88 would get you back to a stock feel. 4.56 would be fine as well ... But not much of a jump from stock to justify cost. But it would be a better highway ratio. 3. Going from an 86 to a 93 motor using MPFI, yeah, grab the whole tank as well. MPFI runs at 30-40psi, you're pushing a whopping 15psi max if TBI and 3-7psi is carb'd. 4. I've had a Runva on my XJ for a few years now, has yet to let me down. It does what a winch does, pulls. Good price, good winch. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Ah, now I see, kind of took me off guard there. Stellar work by the way. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Huh? They are huge, ain't Bending these anytime soon. Anil if I do, and the axle is somehow in one piece, the guy that made my current set will make me a new set. He lives right down the road after all. But, trust me when I say, my steering is the last thing on my mind these days. Had to go buy a 1 5/16" and a 1 1/4" wrench just to adjust it all. The TRE taper shaft nuts are thicker than the stock linkage. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 2000 XJ runs 15x7 wheels, 35x12.50's and Teeves calipers. Ran stock steering for a week before parts came in. It bolts up. And D30 hub bolts to the knuckle fine, 1/4" spacers are needed for ujoint centering. Not an issue for 2wd. You're on your own for rotor spacing though (if you add the 1/4" spacer WJ and Explorer S/T rotors can be used). You may need to play with caliper spacing depending on hub choice. Not sure if stock wheels will work or not, it gets pretty tight. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

HO was mounted upside down as well until sometime in 93 ... As my old 91 was upside down from the factory, as was the 93 parts XJ motor I have (I pulled the motor, carved the XJ like Turkey). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

If you've been running at that temp all this time ... The fan has only been on when the A/C was otherwise it was just added weight along for the ride. It comes on at about 220*F I would suspect either a thermostat or temp sender issue. Mine used to run that low of a temp when I threw in the "totally the best" Stant thermostat. Two did that one, after the other 195* thermo's holding 160* steady. Switched to a Motorad failsafe and it's ran at expected Temps since. Should have never switched the Motorad's have never let me down in 20yrs and 7 different vehicles. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

As for the rear axle, obviously the rear was done as a spring over axle conversion. Simply look down the springs, if they are in line with the spring hangers, all is fine, they moved the perches. If the springs are tweaked outwards about 3/4 inch, on each side, you have something to address. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 88 didn't come with an efan, I added it this year when I started towing. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

This is why the upper ball joint on the D30 is a sliding pin and not a true ball joint. It allows for a variance on casting flaw. The lower is the only true ball joint on a D30. IIRC the upper has almost an inch of travel allowance. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

JK wheels are even more offset, and a different bolt pattern (5 on 5). With an adapter of 1.25" they will have about stock backspacing. If you want to do 17's the Charger/Magnum/Challenger/300 wheels are a good fit if you don't want to buy aftermarket. About 1" less backspacing than a stock wheel. And they bolt up. Easier to find than the TJ Moats. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The throwout bearing rides on the bearing retainer, and inside the pressure plate diaphragm ... So it is actually spinning up until you press the clutch pedal. At which point it would stop spinning. Either way, an AX15 will eventually be swapped in, just trying to get a time line on how long or catastrophic a failure is coming. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Anyone? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The Home Depot near me stocks well nuts in various sizes ... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

MJ perch center to center is 42", on under side of axle. XJ is something like 43" on top side. I made a spring under Bastard pack using Dakota leaves, XJ leaves and a stock 2wd and another stock 4wd MJ leaf packs. And then a set of GM lowering shackles. And Monroe load assists for shocks. Mixed and matched until I was where I liked it. As I have an 8.8 under it now, it lowered my rear about 3/4" and the spring perches used dropped me another 1/2". If the 99 XJ axle is an 8.25 expect similar results you'll have to account for as well. But the strength gain from a 99 8.25 is well worth it. I built my pack to take weight, for towing and hauling crap, so I went fairly stiff in the rear. If I pull the load assists it's much smoother and drops about 3/4". That's with a 32" tire to add perspective. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk