Rockfrog

Could also be Pro-Comp soft 8's .... The wheel should have a stamp on the inside with all the needed details. Center caps come in all sorts of sizes and styles. A tire shop should be able the help sort it all out. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Same, could care less about the scores, more so, I go the events to try the new mods out .... And hob-nob with fellow wheelers. My XJ a couple months ago Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Last I checked the GM TPS was $21 on rockauto. So even cheaper yet. Easily reversible conversion. But, it was just a suggestion anyway. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

That's why I converted to the GM 86-94 (Standard Th32) 2.8L TPS. Cheap and only takes a simple wire swap in the connector. Been running one for about a year now (maybe closer to two can't remember). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Anyone reading this have suggestions for a turn down off the muffler ... My exhaust is rotten from the muffler back so I was thinking of either putting an elbow off the muffler or pushing it out the passenger bedside. As in the rear hanger has a piece of pipe flapping in the hole where it used to attach, made on hell of a racket when I pulled into the parking compound. Not sure if the muffler is toast too (if it is I'll probably replace it with a simple and bombproof glass pack). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Me thinks the 2wd retained the AMC brakes until the switch the standard unit bearings in 93. The 4wd axles dropped the bracket design (AMC/Bendix) in 1990. The 91 up knuckles were all one piece with no removable caliper bracket. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, got one, then had the 8.8 swapped in before I could get it swapped in. I work a week on, a week off, so things sometimes take longer to get to. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

They've been changing the color every year lately. It is closest to Sarge Green. I really prefer the Rescue Green ... But I'm not able to afford that kind of coin for a utility vehicle paint job. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So here's my thought ... Since looking at the pics the axle seems to be more centered than when I picked it up. I had them reduce the shackle to spring torque to 60ft-lbs on delivery. If I loosen the shackle to frame bolts for the return trip and loosen the u-bolts a wee bit and wobble the nuts off it (jump in the box like a mad man) then retighten the u-bolts and retorted the shackles to 75ft-lbs when I get back home. Is it possible that the spring is actually twisted? Or am I grasping at straws? The perches are right where they need to be, confirmed several times by multiple tape measures. The slight pull to the right is consistent with our road crowning here (and with a slight wheelbase discrepancy ... But don't let that cloud the issue, we're concerned with the rear axle only at this point in the game). It's not like it makes an immediate lane change, just a slight slow meandering veer right if I let the wheel go. Nothing dramatic, probably take a few hundred yards to swap a lane so to say. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Sold mine recently for $200cdn along with a gutted D30 with carrier/gears still in. Common price around here is $100-150cdn for a good 29spl 8.25 axle. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The size and spline counts are the same, but the way they seal is completely different. It's best to match the slip yoke on the driveshaft to the seal style (internal/external) on the 'case. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Drive to work was uneventful, even got into a race with a modded 2dr wrangler. He had no chance, like none, zero, two pinpoints in the rear view none. And Fuel economy seems to be up a bit, but my little rocket show seems to have skewed that some. Slight pull to the right though. I mean it all measures fine off the axle and the mounts so Ivm thinking a twisted spring? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Nope, I even went and measured thinking the same thing. Even spacing from the backing plates. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My XJ has the YJ/TJ stock fan (also the ZJ max cooling) aka Hayden 2737. You definitely WILL hear the fan I guarantee it. I don't even notice it now, but when it first went in. But it only makes it sound like a YJ/TJ so really not a major deal. It's just that the stock fan is so quiet is all. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I'll try and snag pictures when the scorching ball of light pops back up again. The upshot though, is with 32's second gear now acts like first gear used with 3.07's. Speedo is waaaaaaaay out, reads about 80km/h at 60 now ... Out come Ulysses Speedometer (android app on my phone). I'll have to figure out what gear I need later. Edit - doing a little research reveals several accounts of YJ's leaving the factory with mismatched wheel bases side to side. Since nothing is bent that I can see .... I'm going to go with it's always been like that and we just taped it out. But, that's an easy fix anyway, 3/8" shorter on one side, 3/8" longer on the other ... Shims for the win. Noticed the passenger shock has a crumpled body now, not saying it was done by the shop, but if the shock is crumpled could an aging suspension and some aggressive driving on the highway have shifted things over time? We didn't really do any beforehand measuring so this may have been like this already and is just coming to light because of the axle swap? I trying to think of anything at this point. I have some spare leaves and a few other sets of Dakota leaves (and some XJ) going to try and make a new set of bastard heavy loaders and check the shackles while I'm at it. They look OK to me so maybe the springs have shifted ... It would only take 3/4" of so to throw the driverside out 1.5" from the passenger. Remember what comes off the one side gets added to the other. Second edit - I was just doing even more research into the issue ... Is it possible he may have tightened things up a bit too much when it was still in the air with no wheels? So when on it's own weight again, the shackle and spring bushings and all that were not allowing for proper settling before final torque down? Or is it even a possibility that my aging stock 2wd spring are just that sagged unevenly and the load assist shocks are just exacerbating the issue? Time for sleep, this stuff's too damn frustrating right now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Measured them, 42" to center, they are about 4 1/4" from the backing plates to the perch sides. Spring center bolts are in the holes, I can see them there. I'm hoping it'll settle in as some things were loose and I tightened them. Have a good run to work so that should give the rear a good shuffling into place. I'll check and relighting when I get up there and again when I get back home (about 250km each way). I mean it all looks good to me, but something is obviously out. Even measuring off the spring side matches side to side within 1/8" ... I'm totally stumped and no time to dig deeper this week. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So the axle is about 1 1/4" to the driverside. U bolts were loose, brakes waaaaaaaay out of adjustment. Tightened the u-bolts, and adjusted the brakes so at least it's safe to drive now. The rear frame is square, the perches are properly centered, only thing I can figure is the GM lowering shackles or the springs are twisted somehow. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Check the cat/muffler for blockage. The stock fan only spins about 60-70% of engine speed. An upgrade is a Hayden 2737 which spins 90% Is the rad fins full of dirt/Grime at all? When was the last time the water pump was changed? If the fins are rusting out ... Well you can guess what happens there. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Just awesome ... Got a call from the shop, new 8.8 axle is in ... But the wheel base is 3/4" longer on one side, and the wheels are sitting 2" from the frame on the passenger side and 3/8" from the frame on the drivers. And only 11hrs left until I have to go to work, in this truck. Words escape me. Foxtrot Mike ... Out. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Nope, you're thinking correctly ... that's the most likely cause. Fix is to weld the 'divots' in the caliper mounts and regrind smooth. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The core is just a simple pass through, it can be plumbed either way once the heater valve is ditched. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

When I made my impromptu catch bottle I just used a length of brake line to reach the bottom of the "bottle" then the rad line went to that. As DirtyComanche stated, the system overflows into the catch bottle from the bottom due to fluid expansion. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My first overflow bottle was a fast orange bottle with some brake line plumbed accordingly. Worked fine for a year and a half before I replaced it with one from a 92 Cherokee. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, it was pretty straight forward to replace the plugs once I had my head wrapped around the layout. Having a matched plug would help too (I had to move some pins as mine came from two different vehicles). It also helps get rid of the problematic, corrosion filled stock plug. Looks good. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

You are mistaken, the Comanche and the Cherokee used the exact same motor/Intakes. What you are confusing is Renix Based EFI (87-90) and Chrysler HO EFI (91 up). Swapping the intake is easy and will allow using the HO throttle body in a Renix environment (your 87 Comanche). You will have to adapt the TPS and use the HO throttle cable (and either bend the gas pedal or swap that as well). This is a 94 throttle body I put on an 88 Comanche with the adapted TPS. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk