Rockfrog

Glad to hear you're OK. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well at least I got goods light ... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Got bored and wired up the lights while the last of the rocker guard dried .... Didn't have a switch I liked (want to use a stock style switch) so I popped the fan lead out, and wired the fog lights to the old EGR solenoid. So, I essentially did a simple DRL for now. Anytime the engine is running, the fog lights will be on. Eventually I'll add a switch, and install the fan switch where the ECT used to live to control the fan relay. But I got larger fish to fry right now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

No, but can be done, I used to have a 300-6 I was building as a propane motor. 240-6 head, 390 Pistons, custom intake, then the kids came and I had to stop being a Ford guy. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I squeezed some urethane into the gap under the rubber gasket. Pulled the edge back and globbed it in along both sides and the top. Hopefully that'll do the trick for now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

No difference of opinion there at all, eagle mentioned the break for a D35, and was sure of the D30, I added the information for the D30. D35 - rear axle D30 - front axle Hence two different carrier break ranges. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

If going from a D35 to any of the mentioned axles also requires either moving the axle back, or shortening the rear driveshaft about an inch. I have an 8.8 in my 88 MJ. Depending on wheel choice, spacers may not be needed, I have 05 Charger wheels on mine with 1.5" spacers ... I can mount the wheels without the spacers though. I was going to use a 29spl 8.25 before, but it simply came down to gear choice, the 8.25 was 3.55, the 8.8 was 3.73 with LSD .... That was the only deciding factor one way or the other. Personally I prefer the 8.25. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

And now that it reaaaallly raining, turns out my rear window leaks, hence the water in the floor board ... Yay. Any suggestion on fixing that without pulling the rear window? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Hello, I'm in need of a good set of door mirrors/brackets for the side mounted mirrors. The "towing style" ones everyone seems to hate. Also looking for a set of seat covers for the grey Laredo seats. My seats are from a 93 XJ and have the side bolsters. And if anyone has a stockpile of the small round screw covers for the interior trim I could use a handful as well as a grey passenger grab handle (with both screw covers). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So ... Started tackling the ebrake cable, and decided I was going to swap the door seals at the same time. Well .... Things changed quickly after the carpet came up. It's not as bad as some others I've seen, but I'm going to have to tackle the drivers side floor repair eventually. For now I scraped, vacuumed, hammered, scraped and vacuumed some more. Ended up with four holes, one about a 1/4", and the rest around 1/8"-3/16" varying. But she's thin. After cleaning all the loose/layered rust ... I doused it all in Blue Steel rust converter, and then rubberized rocker guard. The carpet was cut out just below the center console so it spaced correctly. Waiting for it to cure before continuing with the ebrake cable swap. Door seal swap went well, and decided to change the interior color to a charcoal and light grey mix. Plastic trim will be charcoal, headliner, and parts of the dash will stay the lighter grey. Stuff was all grungy anyway, was never going to get it clean again without coarse sandpaper. Not sure how I tackle the door panels ... All charcoal, or a mixed pattern maybe. And a front brake line has decided to weep, so, YJ brake lines will replace those. Makes it ready for the front end work later on. Just have to locate my spare 89 down AMC knuckles to get started on the ZJ LP30 swap. Hoping to get the trailer out of the driveway soon so I can roll the truck forward and start the engine/trans swap. No room right now, tools are at the wrong end of a 24' trailer. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Here's a question, is it possible it's the sound of dying throwout bearing? It makes no noise when I push the clutch in. And really I have had no issues shifting and no other odd or weird noises. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

With the right color combo they work. That one looks good. On a red one ... Probably not so much. With the green (kind of an olive) I went with they might work also (although I went with Bronze instead). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The D30 carrier break is at 3.73. So 3.73 and up, and 3.55 and down. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Most I have seen were cracked, and then rewelded, even mine has been welded together as it cracked at some point in the same spot. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

XJ Springs are too short to use in an MJ, unless you slip them in Bastard Pack style. But they will not provide lift like that. The MJ springs static arch is equivalent to about a 3-4" lift spring for an XJ. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

A week ago, took all of about 2oz's or so. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Honestly, I've never used a gasket, the key to a good seal is prep. Clean and scrape/sand the block sealing surface, and do the same for the thermostat housing. Then degrease and dry both surfaces. I usually hit both with Brake Cleaner. Then I lay a bead of RTV (blue, black, or gray) and smooth it out evenly-ish. Place thermostat, place housing, and install bolts finger tight. Give the housing a little wiggle and go grab a coffee. After coffee tighten the bolts to spec. Have another coffee/beer and a snack, about 45 minutes worth. Fill with coolant and go from there. Haven't had a leak yet (about 8 installs over 10yrs on 4 different motors). But I do tend to get a bit anal about the clean and smooth part. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Ok, so my BA 10/5 has been starting to act up. Not in any kind of function way, it still shift perfectly other than the occasional cold condition reverse lockout in the driveway. Shifting into second aligns everything and were good. But that's typical of my experience with most 5spds. Otherwise for a supposedly turdly trans she works beautifully. The issue I am concerned about is a bearing squeal that has been happening lately. It only happens when moving, only when under a load (towing or heavy acceleration - getting jiggy wid it), and happens in all gears with 4th and 5th being the most apparent. Whether this is because with 3.73's and 35's, I generally spend the whole day in 4th and 5th, and just quickly row through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd I haven't really noticed (but is quite likely). But, it does happen in all gears. The sound is what I would say sounds like listening to someone use a metal lathe but is just one single pitch, very high frequency squeal. It does change in pitch depending on how much gas pedal I apply, going away if I accelerate enough to reduce the load (as in not near lugging). So based on that, how bad is it? Input bearing? Output bearing? Or something more internal and not a simple fix. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

You can make some power back by upping the compression ratio ... Factoring in that propane is equivalent to 110 Octane. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I have a front receiver mounted to my 88 MJ that was originally made for my 00 XJ, all the holes lined up just fine. I didn't see anything different between the two frame ends either. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The XJ - wheeling, stock box is more than fast enough for me. Slower is fine as well and most of my escapades are in slow time. Squeezing between places with hairs clearance, pushing balance and such. For this one beef is more important turning 35's than a quick ratio anyday The MJ - driving to work, and towing the trailer, hauling crap and my quad about the planet. So a stock box covers my needs. The OP's needs may differ. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

They are essentially the same Vox as used in an XJ/MJ/TJ Some of the earlier units had bearing where the Jeep units used bushings. If you were to get a reman unit reports indicate it is the exact same box now. If you get it cheap, go for it, just be aware the S10 guys are swapping Jeep units in as an upgrade. Durango or J20 boxes are still the best upgrade. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Looks a little better with the lights in. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

They should be fairly easy to add to near any bumper. When you have a set in your hands they have a flat mount on the bracket. Making a spacer to set them back accordingly would be the hardest part. The stock brackets even have an aiming mechanism (up and down). I'm probably going to fill them with a set of LED bulbs and use them for DRL's. Now I just have to figure out what to do with the rear bumper .... Taking it off is going to be a fight, and it's banged up to hell and back. Not sure if it'll come off cleanly enough to be fixable. The receiver hitch sandwiches it in and I'm daily certain at least 6-8 bolts are going to give me hell coming off. If they don't snap outright. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah already did that, just need to add the wiring. Picked up some pigtails for them off eBay a while back so they'll be a simple plug in once wired. Got tired of staring at two dark holes ... Was beginning to think I should turn them into intake ducts ... So I filled them before I got all "Honda up in here". Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk