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About Marine1Texas

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    Comanche Addict

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  1. take your @#$%ing forums and shove it POS

  2. So if you used one of these you could hook heater core direct no bottle and just get a over flow tank. You would not even have to change your radiator right?
  3. Since it started after fill up, check your fuel pressure 31 with out vacuum and 38 with. This happen to me years ago, pulled the fuel pump and the hose above the fuel pump in the tank had a small hole in it. It pumped a bit, however mostly went back in to the tank. Now I would think the noise from rear end would be a different issue, unless it was coming from the tail pipe! As Eagle said could be water, just go through the motions first. Check that pressure if it is good then you go from there. how long ago did you change your fuel filter?
  4. do they still say you have to spend 500 dollars on repair, and you can get a pass on smog testing for california?
  5. diesels engines exempt in California before 1998.
  6. I remember back in the day, I had a old 1981 in cali that failed when station in camp Pendleton. I found a guy that works on vehicles and does smog test. It cost be like a 100 bucks but he got it to pass. Now I bet it was illegal, however it passed. California smog laws are total bs and are really about getting new vehicles on the road and trashing the old ones. I know California will allow you to register if you spend 500 dollars in repairs. That is just crazy. I know they have this stuff called CRC. it will lower numbers to help pass. I have a friend who does it here in Texas on a 1995 and it works.
  7. I ring in 3rd on EGR. Make sure the EGR is not clogged with soot, also make sure the vacuum lines are hooked up right for the EGR, and finally that the EGR switch is working right. I have seen them stay on and choke a engine out, also seen them just not come on at all. A bad egr that is clogged or does not come on will cause your NOx levels to climb.
  8. So today I had some time to spend on the 1987 Jeep Comanche 4.0. I redone all the c101 connection. so direct wire solder and heat shrink wraps. Then I got over to the 3 relays. I pulled them up and check the bottom connections. They had that same c101 crap grease. So I cut out the relays and put in some new relay connectors and new relays. solder and heat shrink wrap each wire to the relay connector. Now from the video here you can see that the idle is perfect. We bought this truck new in late 1987. From day one we had a idle that jumped around. No matter what we did it was jumpy. I knew the c101 connection was a problem in these jeeps as well as the crappy ground system. I did all cruiser tips and it solved a lot but not everything. So don't just check the relays, and connections, look under and clean that great out, or do as I did. I installed water proof relays for all 5 that I have. The Fuel pump, relay latch, o2 sensor, headlight relay (add on), and the air con heater relay.
  9. 2nd picture I use those all the time at work. They are high amp fuses. normally 40 to 100 amps. I used them when hookup a winch. 1st picture looks like at 1970's style starter relay. however it is a relay none the less.
  10. I would check your idle air control valve (this controls how much air the intake gets while at idle) and your TPS (this controls the amount of fuel at all times your injectors give). There are many things on the renix 4.0 that can cause rough idle. A bad o2 sensor (if not getting power to heat element), a vacuum leak, for sure check vacuum line from throttle body to your map sensor. Make sure to do the cruiser tips. I my self have never had a cps do what your explaining. For me it works or it doesn't.
  11. if it won't start with map hooked up I am assuming something wrong with the map. even if it is new could be bad or wiring. The map measures the air density going in to the throttle body. If it is not hooked up it goes to default settings for idle, however the ecu has no data on to calculate how much fuel because air density is not in the calculation. So when you hit the gas you are getting super lean and it will stall to much air not enough fuel. Long cranks normal mean CPS. however a few other things. Your Ignition control modular could have bad contacts and need cleaning ( always a good think to look at. Water can get on contacts from coil to Ignition control modular and cause bad contact. Look at your coil as well. I had a coil one time work and just cut out, then work, then just cut out. Some have had just low volts get put out of the coil. Of course you can't forget standard tune up parts, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Also Cruiser has a indexing tip for the distributer. Also finally in your Distributor you have a Electronic Pickup called (Stator Sensor ). I have herd of them being faulty, but never ran in to that. Seems like you been changing every single part and not found the reason for it running right. What I explained above is everything left. I am think to look at your wiring. Make sure rodents have not chewed on your wiring giving you problems. Like Ωhm noted below me, yes what about that TPS.
  12. You don't have the right pump. This is the Bosch number here Bosch number should be 69302. That pump looks like it is a inline style to me. this one fits too
  13. yes sounds like a sticky cable. I agree with Gogmorgo needs cleaned. Use some brake cleaner to spray the cable down and get any hard great off or heavy dirt. Then get some good Penetrating Oil and soak it good. It is not a normal area that gets maintenance often. make sure the spray from in side down. push the thing to the floor and spray it good. Do inspect it, to see if your getting any frayed wire coming out. While your at it spray the whole throttle body link are too connected to the cable.
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