Rockfrog

They were all on the transfer case. Originally they were mounted on the rear (where you show above), but later years moved them to the front of the case. Near the range lever. Think this change occurred around 95 or so. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The stock MJ/XJ clutch rotates at 60% of engine speed when locked. The ZJ/TJ clutch (Hayden 2737) rotates at 90% of engine speed when locked. And that's how it pulls more air. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Cali would have to pay the hydro bill first. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Makes sense, I didn't have the option, no bores Renix TB's up in the northlands. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The tps adapter is waaay easier to pull off. I made that adapter with a hacksaw and files, and a cheap drill press (cause I was pretty sure my hand drill was roasted). The 2.5l 92 up used the same size TB as the Renix TB if you don't want to jump in size. Just saying as I already run a 2000 intake on my 88 motor (with a 92 head, 96 PS pump/brackets, 2000 valve cover, and some other doodads I'm currently too hung over to remember). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Are the pictures working again? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

You already have the correct pigtail. Simply disassemble the connector and rearrange the wires is all that is needed in either case. It's a 3 pin GM weatherpack connector, available just about anywhere really. But if you intend to make a test/calibration harness like I did just make sure you grab both male and female and assemble the plug pin orientation according to the existing harness. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Pictures seem to be working for me on the web, but not in Tapatalk. I downloaded the pictures and will re-add them when I get home Tuesday.

Lock cylinder should be able to be replaced. Or a 91-93 column swap will also work to get the later key style if you prefer. The doors are another matter. The early key cylinders have a slightly larger opening, so the later bodies will fit but will leave a gap. I have a spare IGN lock cylinder and two door cylinders if you want to pay shipping for them. I swapped columns and doors to go to one key on my 88. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So, Just a long term update. This GM TPS has been working for the last 1.5yrs now. Recently picked up a spare for $25. So pretty much cheap and easy. Going to start looking at compatibility for 2.5L (pre 92 so renix TBI) next. Looks like I should be able. To utilize the same GM TH32 with a simple wire swap again.

Just an FYI, all Jeep keys since the change to the Chrysler format, use the same basic blank. I believe there was a change to a 7 pin lock in 97, the doors would likely be the easiest to have recoded. The housings are slightly different than the 92's but the pins/tumbler body are still basicly same. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The 2.5L lists as a Standard Th31... I'm thinking it may mean that it uses an unmodified GM part... Does anyone have the TPS wiring pinout for a 1990 2.5L to confirm? The 4.0L used a TH32 with a modified pinout specific to Renix. By re arranging the wires I have modified my own 4.0 to use the GM part instead of the AMC variation. I would like to confirm the 2.5's needs if possible. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Hello, was just wondering if the 1990 2.5L tps is the same as one from a 4.0L? Buddy of mine has a 2.5L that is revving up and down at part throttle. Figuring to see what can be done cheaply - as in if I have any parts that will work for him? What causes should I look at? 1990 2.5L 5spd (looks to run the Renix system) .... Could a Bad IAC be another possible culprit? O2 sensor? He's put a new fuel pump in a few months back already. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Duplicolor's vinyl dye is a pretty good match. Been turning my MJ's interior charcoal/light grey. And it matches the charcoal in my XJ. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, but if you are competent with a wrench it can be completed on flat ground with a tape measure, a carpenter square and some chalk. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

They are, all the guages are autonomous of the ecm if that's what you are wondering. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

That's what my whining sounds like that I keep thinking is the death knoll of my BA 10/5, not quite as loud though. But I have no lightbar to save the day for me. I've heard of the whistling but never heard d it until now, wow, that's pretty dramatic. Maybe I'll take a closer look at that JK bumper I modded on, and my intake pipe .... Maybe I just have a sympathetic bumper or intake whistle. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

You don't do anything at the DC joint. You rotate the pinion, at the other end of the driveshaft ... down for the rear, up for the front. As in up, and down according to the laws of gravity. If you set pinion angle at exactly zero degrees (pointing straight at the transfer case outputs) ... The rear pinion (at the axle) will climb, go up, from the ground ... a couple degrees due to spring wrap. As a result you will still get vibrations thinking you did it all right. General rule is to correct by adjusting 1-2 degrees. So since the rear pinion climbs (goes up, from the ground, towards the sky) under load, and the front pinion dives (goes down, towards the ground, away from the sky) we add a slight offset accordingly eliminating the cause of the vibration where it's actually needed. Under load, when the driveshaft is spinning. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yep, best place around, I got all my Comanche decals from him in marine reflective black. Looks great in the day and shines bright silver at night. Much like the old stock decals did (except they were silver in the day as well, but also reflective). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah I measured correctly, several times ... From backing plates and wheel flanges to perches. Having been a former Ford guy I don't rely on the differential or pinion as a center point. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

You need to correct for pinion climb under power ... Generally this will be 1-2 degrees down from zero in the rear, and 1-2 degrees up in the front. It is less important to correct for it in the front with a link suspension, but in the rear, a leaf suspension will always have a little climb under load. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I have this exact same issue when I swapped an 8.8 in, everything is lined up perfectly, but the tires stick out an inch more on the driver side. Still haven't found a solution. May just use a set of mismatched spacers to correct it, if I let it bother me too much. I'm at the point where I almost think the stock D35 was the same but being so tucked in it wasn't really noticeable. I went so far as to swap springs and shackles thinking something was twisted. No change. It has settled to about a 3/4" difference now though. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Pinion angle will be dependent on how it all goes together, kinda something that needs to be measured at the time of install. You want the pinion to point directly at the transfer case out put with a drop of 2 degrees max for pinion rise under power. If you measure the expected axle position you should be able to estimate approximate angles from there. It should give you enough ballpark to have the truss tacked on. Or hold off until the axle is actually mounted to be sure. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So now I'm beginning to think this a vacuum whistle. I can hear my brake booster leak out when I shut the engine off. If I'm cruising along I can vary the pitch of the squeal with the gas pedal (with no increase in rpm or speed). Any merit? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, a 2.5L is a couple inches shorter .... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk