Rockfrog

Painted the remaining two wheels, started working on the JK fog lights. Then decided it was time to add a picture... Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Go the doors painted and swapped across. No more two key dealy for me. Slapped the Comanche stickers on (had jeepsticker.com make them in marine reflective). Now just have to clear coat the A-pillar, roof, header and fenders. But at least she all one color now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So going over part numbers from Rockauto and such ... It looks as the NSS has never really changed other than the plug end. In some cases the part number is the same between a 1990 AW4 NSS and the 2000 AW4 NSS in my XJ .... Is this correct? I know a number of parts were only updated for reliability and are fully backwards compatible (shift solenoids being one). But is this true or a typo on their parts .... I just so happen to have a 1990 NSS and was thinking of cleaning it for use as a spare if this were the case? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I'll second the bastard pack ... Mine is a combo of 4wd main, 4wd main no eyes, Dakota heavy load main, XJ second, 4wd 3rd, and 2wd overload spring ... So a 5/1 pack. I also still have the Monroe Load Assist shock on the rear which add some capacity as well. Might swap them to standard shocks and something like a Timbren later on to smooth the ride more unloaded. Holds the weight of my trailer without issue, and I'm pretty much at max pull (with equalizer hitch and trailer brakes). My old set (stock 2wd with overload - 3/1) used to sag 2" with just my own weight. I originally ran the 4wd "non overlaod" short bottom leaf but it made it buckboard stiff so swapped it for the 2wd overload. Smoothed the ride some (now it's kinda YJ-ish which I can live with) barely moves with just me, and hardly drops with the quad. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My manual calls for 10w40 for my climate. I generally run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic in both my 2000 XJ and my 1988 MJ both 4.0L's Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Bearing removal - drill hole in bearing retainer (just under size of retainer ring) and cold chisel to snap it. Install - axle shaft in freezer, retainer in the oven. But that was before I swapped an 8.8 in. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Luckily I have a clip for my brake controller, when towing my trailer last week had to stop on a slight incline ... Yeah, trailer slowly pulling the whole truck back. Clipped the manual brake activator so the trailer temporarily became an ebrake. Leaving vehicle in gear is no real working solution, seen too many roll back/forward given the right circumstances. And yeah, I still have to fix mine yet. Now I need to grab the two rear cables as well .... The old ones on the 35 were just too shot to add back on. Using a block of wood is getting old real fast. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Never looked, but probably has to do with changes in the brackets that bolt to the side of the trans. The t-case linkage mounts off that bracket. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, I also have poly motor mounts (Stinky Fab) and the rear is an Energy Suspension poly trans mount (for a GM). It does vibrate more ... But not something I can't live with, my XJ is mainly a trail rig, but does see the road a fair bit. It's loud, vibrates (due to mounts, not imbalances) and has a few odd sounds due to what I've done to it. The price I pay for making it work, have no problem with it though. Might be a little more demanding on the MJ, but as far as the Vibes go due to poly mounts .... I don't seem to mind what little there is. Better than a motor flopping around due to yet another failed new rubber mount (been there done that, never again). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So ripped the rear axle out again ... Pulled the bottom leaf off the 4wd spring packs and added the 2wd overload leaf in. Cut the spring perches down (1.5" off the front and 1" off the rear of each) as they were too long, being anti-spam perches better suited to SOA applications. Seems to have done the trick and the spring doesn't need to "flatten out" to mount up now. Width is now slightly longer that stock perches (about 1/2" all at the rear side). Now begins the long process of drive, torque, drive, torque while everything settles again. Added the door mirror (and inner brace) back onto the passenger side door, never realized how much I used my mirrors until it was gone. Swapped all the best of my spares in since the door had to be near fully disassembled to add the inner braces in. Took two lock cylinders in to get re-keyed to my current IGN key. Driver side door turned out to be more banged up than expected ... Might just run with it until I find a better replacement though. Pulled the hood for clear coating (painted the center stipe black - was getting too "busy" looking), but it was too hot even in the evening and the clear dried too quickly ... Will do it again later towards fall when the Temps drop a bit. Added 3/4" of spacer to the hood hinge when I bolted it back on. Going to add the red tapered stripes on the sides back in when I redo the hood's clear coat later on. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Explorer rears are pretty much the same as TJ and ZJ, and likely KJ (liberty) rears. The calipers are the same between them, pads differ only slightly, but rotor size is the same. The rear brakes on my XJ consist of ZJ brackets, TJ calipers and rotors and Explorer pads. All on my 8.25. Rotors are a solid rotor with brake drum inside hat. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

This, I went with bends at either end to clear and then used off the shelf TRE's. Added a Synergy Double Adjuster on the drivers side to make adjustments hassle free. I also had the same deal done with the drag link (bent to clear and a double adjuster was used) when we ran into clearance issues with everything over the axle. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well the Peugeot Trans has developed a high pitched squeal ... I guess 248,000kms and pulling near max load is finally catching up with it. At least I think it's the trans, makes a very high pitch squeal under load, in 3,4,5. Sounds like tinnitus (squealing in your ear). Like dry bearing squeal. Guess I'm looking a full driveline swap soonish. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I used a set of Stinky Fab mounts in my Cherokee, still on the list for the Comanche though. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Swapped in a 93 passenger door after painting. Still have to add the stock towing style mirrors yet, rocker guard the bottom of the door and swap the lock cylinder (have to get a set of spare re-opened to the IGN key). Probably going to swap the window when I tackle all that since the on in this door is pretty scratched up, but I have a few clear spares so no big deal. Fighting the weather so doing it in small portions. Seems by the time I get a section masked and prepped the wind likes to kick up. Guess I need to stop messing about and pull all the front panels individually to save all that masking off crap. Anyone have any tips for when adding the door brace for the mirrors into does that aren't drilled? Looks like the doors all had the lower holes but going to have to do a crap ton of measuring to get the door skin holes located correctly. Thinking I may add the odd door frame hole so I can run a bit from the inside (is possible). Starting to get good at door disassembly/reassembly and mounting solo. Not really a skill I had planned to get good at. New door fits better that the old factory door. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Really the only major improvement is the HO head, the blocks and what's inside are the same (literally up to around 92/93ish). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Easy enough the adapt the TPS to the HO throttle body. All sorts of well documented methods. I made my own adapter block and actuator. There is also another method that mounts the TPS on a bracket for similar effect. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well I have an HO head on a Renix Block, so yes, they are compatible. Pretty much any block from an MJ/XJ will work all the way up to 2001 (1998 castings). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Stop beating around the issue, the fan clutch is done and needs replacing. You described the exact symptoms of the problem. The clutch is 1/4 the price of a rad so it's also the cheaper route. You can't "feel" a bad clutch on these as the lockup is only 60-70% ... A bad clutch generally feels just like a good one, if you get lucky you may have one freewheel when hot (like tapping the red, hot). As for waterpumps, my stock 2000 XJ water pump still cools my 1988 MJ after is replaced the XJ's entire cooling system a couple years ago. It also has the stock 2000 radiator in it as well. The fan clutches in both vehicles have gone several times over the years though (XJ has had 4, MJ on it's third now). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yep there be reason there ... Wish it weren't so, but is what it is sadly. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, until I started towing, I only had the stock clutch fan, no efan at all. Never overheated, or over 210F in the last 5 or so years. Now that I'm towing ... The heat has risen, and without the efan it stayed there. The stock clock locked itself in the "cool" mode which also didn't help. So what I have done now is wired up an efan using the old EGR solenoid 12+ (orange black lead) as the trigger for the relay. Then direct from the battery and grounded to the fender ground point. Currently the efan comes on with the key (grounded the fan and relay together for now), it runs for a second as the system energizes with the fuel pump primer (since it runs on the same circuit). Sort of a system test as it were. Then runs all the time while the IGN is energized. For now I can pull the trigger lead (which will eventually be routed through a thermo switch - on order) and disable the system when not towing as it's not really needed. I will say with just the replacement fan clutch Temps were reduced to a max of 210F (or roughly straight up). Been driving around with it all energized the last two days and the usual slight cycling in traffic is gone, she warms up and stays at the thermostats 195F steady like a rock. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, you may want to do a little bit of research before dealing with him. Or don't and become one more of the long time disappointed customers. Been on the receiving end of his "quality service" save yourself the trouble. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Pretty much any vehicle from the 80's and 90's will have loads of vacuum check valves in them, just look for anything from the vacuum emission overload era (84-96ish). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So over the years I've heard many a folk ask about having the efan remain on after the engine is shut down ... Two ways I see it... The common way would be to run direct power from the battery (loop coil pos on the relay from batt pos). Then the thermo switch controls fan operation in all cases ... Until the battery dies. Not so good. This can be prevented with the addition of a manual control switch. The other way is to source some form of timer, or complicated series of relays and doodads to accomplish the same task. On that second solution I have a question ... Would the headlight dealy relay not work to accomplish the same thing? Allows full function for another 30 seconds post shutdown. A manual switch can be used to supply power before/after shutdown to simulate the headlight switches part in the circuit. Or possibly wire it in so it always runs in delay mode? After having a considerable overheating incident whilst towing this weekend ... Mech fan clutch failed and the truck never had an efan. Swapped the mech clutch and all was good but that efan would have made the issue much less of an issue. Got hot enough to melt my intake piping under the hood. When I pulled into the campsite, she was just about in the red zone (stock Guage but this one seems to read fairly accurately). Would there be any benefit to the delayed coming fan operation? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

There is a check valve in the vacuum line, both mine have them. But the reservoirs appear to be just a plain chamber. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk