Rockfrog

Board looks to be unscorched, and in good shape for having been sitting some time (I was given the jeep a while back, drove it on/off the trailer, but no registration makes it parts only. Several of which currently make Ratmanche move. Once I figure the pin outs, I can at least test it out. I wanted to put center dome lights in the MJ, this just seems a more fitting, and better looking set. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Dug out my old 91 electrical FSM, and found wiring digram codes that match what I have, so that's a start. Looked in my 89 FSM and it only lists the SJ overhead, nothing for the 60/70 series (XJ/MJ) So, looks like I needs to start digging. Already located the temp sensor pins so that's easy, next I guess is what's input power and what's not really needed on the plug. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I did find this, and the circuit board has a 1987 date code on it. Further research has led me to beive the consoles are the same up to 1995, possible 1997 when the design changed. Wiring is easy but reading the diagrams, not so much. Looks like I might need to grab the back half of the console possibly for further internal parts. The diagram references a compass module. I di grab the temp sensor and about 6' of pigtail so that's an easy one. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So was pulling parts off a 93 XJ with all, and I do mean all, the bells and whistles. It had a power sunroof, so the overhead console was a two piece. Meaning the forward section was perfect size for the Comanche. So, anyone have info on how to wire this gem in? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

One of two things will make that light shine bright. The shuttle in the distribution valve has shifted - fluid loss, most likely to the rear circuits (you probably would have already noticed if it was to the front). The parking brake switch has grounded. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Should work just fine, 242's only came stock behind an AW4, and mine's now living behind an AX15. The "medium length" input is rare, the short is the most common. Both the AW4 and the AX15 have plenty of room for either, and the short will work with either. The Long is a ZJ (Grand Cherokee) thing. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Sway bar is four bolts at the uniframe, all easily accessible without moving anything. Upper control arms, lower control arms, ball joints, wheel hubs, steering interlink, tie rods, drag link, all accessible without touching the motor. If your doing all that might as well just pull the axle right out as well. Chilton's, Haynes ... All manuals made to send you to a mechanic. Had a Chilton manual, with the wrong firing order printed in it, ruin my day back in 1992. Common issue. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

So, recently did a tune up, swapped the stock style Renix plugs for those meant for the later HO (seeing as I have a 97 TJ motor currently). This rose the question of the differences between projection plugs (TJ motor) and non projection plugs (Renix) and then the additional issue of heat range (RC9 vs RC12). The old plugs looked OK, even color and no fouling after a year. But the new plugs seem to run a bit better (possibly more to do with the new cap/rotor/wire?). So I am asking for the advice of those more in the know on this one. 1988 MJ 1997 4.0L Ax15 Renix MPFI 00 intake and TB 94 exhaust Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

None of what you plan requires moving the engine. He teeing gearbox is easily removed/replaced by removal of the airbox and fender skirt for access. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Ouch, yeah, swapping to any 4cyl, 21 spline, 231 would solve that. And it'll likely come with a nearly correct gear. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

The 97+ (96 technically) runs a constant pressure system, the fuel pump assembly supplies 49psi to the rail regardless of anytbing else. It just does what it does. Th HO 91-95 runs a demand regulated pressure system, running between 31-39psi based on vacuum signals. With the HO system Th ecm controls injector firing, and timing based on parameters based around a variable fuel pressure. With the later (96+) system, the 'demand' variation is controlled by the ecm, but now is done so at the injector. The injectors themselves are completely compatible with each other. I have run 97 injectors in my 88 without issue and they actually worked quite well. 49psi is the system rail pressure, not the injector pressure. The later injectors only flow more as the system pressure is higher, and will flow less with the lower HO pressures. I myself have wondered about running a late model tank/pump with the HO return rail (just have to add the return line port). As the tank will push 49psi constant (with it's own regulator) and the HO regulator should handle the drop. But, it is likely the HO regulator will drop too low as it's based on seeing full pump pressure. Disabling the 96+ regulator should enable normal HO rail function in theory, but I haven't reached that point in my build. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

When I did mine, I drilled the studs out (they all broke but one) and just used 1/4" bots, nuts and washers to replace them (no welding) along with Th drilled out brackets (they also act to reinforce Th fender lip). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

For that year range of vehicle, you have a fully mechanical speedometer, no wiring involved in it's function whatsoever. If you have a 21 spline gear in the speedo drive, that is your issue. 235/75r15 and 3.54 gears are all you need to concern yourself with as far as the sppedo is concerned. You need to swap to a 33 o 34 tooth gear (according to most charts, as you technically split the range with a 235/75) on the sppedo drive housing. It will be a long shaft gear that you need. You may find a 31 tooth gear more accurate though (explained lower down). If you plan to swap axles/gearing/tires at any point, plan ahead and get the gear as well. If you need to, use your phone as a speedo for the time being, I've done this several times while mid build (Ulysses Speedo is my go to app for Android). Also take the speedo charts with a grain of salt, thy are made based on the factories tendency to read 10% under speed. I have actually found a 34 tooth gear to work perfectly for my MJ when I was 3.73 geared rolling on 255/75r17, and now use a 39 tooth with 4.56 gears and 33/13.50r15 with plans for 35's so the current 5% error (reads faster than actual) is fine for now and better than factory. As a result of this, I generally keep the speedo gears from all the cases I have had pass my way. As for the tach, there should b a potentiometer on the tach itself to adjust it. It is quite likely the whole cluster was swapped from a 4cyl vehicle. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Get the matching driveshaft slip yoke. That t case will mount just fine to an AW4 or an AX15. The only input issue (length) you really need to concern yourself about is whether is came from a ZJ or not. The ZJ used a rather long input. I currently run a 99 242 behind my 93 AX15. I did have to swap the rear output shafts with an earlier one due to already having my driveshaft and not wanting to make a new one. So I converted my 99 case to internal slip yoke style. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Black is negative Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk