Rockfrog

Jesus, and that right there is why I'm glad I live up north ... If you buy a piece of metal and mount lights, it's your responsibility to ensure if follows government guidelines. If you modify your vehicle, it's also your responsibility to ensure it still meets the required standards. Not the guy that made the part you bought, because he didn't tell you it wasn't legal to do so. So damn frivolous. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Hmm, I've been eyeing up the oil pan on my stroker donor 4.2 for some time now wondering if I could make a better pan from the two. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Less weight overall helps. Regearing the axles will probably improve it somewhat as well (there is a point of diminishing returns here though). And FYI - my XJ came from the factory reading 10% lower speeds, so you could say it's calibrated to stock value. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

When you have it in your hands it'll make more sense. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

We were talking about the main bumper form, totally agree the end caps are completely different. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Hadn't even thought of that, might use that on the XJ to upgrade my rear discs to match the WJ fronts. Don't need the ebrake on the XJ (probably do a tcase brake), but do on the MJ. Then the current ZJ/TJ discs can go on the MJ ... Win, win. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

X2 ... With the limitations they have due to poor input design, not on my wish list either. And for the cost, there are several better options. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Took me a few years but I finally found a set or manual 4drs for my XJ, good luck with the hunt. They are out there ... somewhere. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

It plugs into the stock headlight plug. The only thing you have to do is decide where you mount the relays, and connect two ground wires to the body (generally at an existing bolt), and connect the red wire to the battery. It's that simple, it uses the stock system to trigger the relays that supply power directly from the battery to the headlights. Savvy? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

And that my 88's is factory painted, and mount the same, and a slight difference in the contour. Sure, they are so different they can't possibly be made to work ... at all. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The only real difference between the two is the way the end caps mount. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I would imagine all of them, my 89 had it, and the 93 did as well. The 242 is not in the same transfer case group as the 231, they are part of the 24x family of cases, they share the same front case as the 247, 249, 241, etc... cases and parts are swappable between them. I am gathering parts to revive an old project ... The wide chain 242 ... Using 249 sprockets and chain (1.5") and a 241 planetary assembly (which also fits the 231 as the planetaries are the same for all post 87 2xx series cases). The 231 uses a smaller case and the front outputs are considerably smaller. Wish it were not though. The later model liberty 242 we were using also had a 32 spline output, but as mentioned, no speedo provision. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Both the 44 and the D35 non C-clip will require spacers. The D35 C-clip, and 8.25 do not. The C-clip axle don't use spacers to begin with. The spacers are only there to add proper preload to the seal, something the 44 and non C-clip 35 require as the seal and bearing are retained on the axle shaft. The 8.25 and C-clip 35 have press in seals and bearings retained in the axle housing, so the backing plates do nothing to retain the seal or bearing. In fact when installed, both the drum and disk backing plates do not even touch the seal or bearing on the 8.25, adding a spacers would merely change the position of the rotor. Which is not required for the c-clip style axles. The non c-clip axles however require the retainer plate to apply proper preload on the bearing and seal which is messed up by using the wrong thickness of backing for the retainer on the axle (the later disc brake D44 used a different retainer than the drum D44). And I can assure you Cruiser is quite correct about the 8.25 (and the c-clip 35)... Mine hasn't leaked in 3yrs, and there is no retainer plate to add a spacer to in any event. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Image front and back, with the AMC logo beside the "Comanche" and drop the hockey sticks ... in XL size would be stellar. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

All the 2.5L Jeeps retained 21 spline outputs (AX5), only the 4.0's switched to 23 spline outputs. I'm going to guess his 95 parts source YJ had a 2.5L engine. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 88 Comanche is 255/75r17 with 3.07, Ba10/5 and 4.0 Renix with a few changes. Currently averaging 18 mpg but I can push 20-21 if I lay off the pedal and get my gramps on. My XJ averages a combined city/highway of around 18mpg as well. 35's, AW4, 4.56 gears, but she rarely runs the highway (and I always drive her like gramps on the highway) and sees about 16 around town, less if I get my foot into it. Speedo has been calibrated and is near dead on. On the trail it sees around 8mpg or so. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

These ones came off the Chargers, although I've seen them on the Magnums, and challengers around here. Dodge type 2325 and they readily accept the newer JK wheel centers. I'm thinking or painting the black ones a graphite grey color. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I like them the best. I have a black and a silver set. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The clocking was done at the transmission ... The pattern in the tail housing was offset differently between XJ/MJ and the YJ/TJ. The transfer cases were the same for all jeep vehicles, 242 or 231. Only the input gears were different, but rarely an issue enough to worry about. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The Temp Guage, Oil Pressure Guage, and Voltmeter and indicator lights are about the only parts of the 91-96 Guage cluster that will be directly swappable to a pre 90 cluster. The Speedo and Fuel Guage aren't. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Just to revisit, all the 242's I've torn apart lately have had a 32 spline front output. The 231 though still has the 26 spline front. Too bad the cases don't swap so well. Me and a buddy were looking at swapping parts about to build a stronger case. The later 242 used a 32 spline slip yoke as well but had no provisions for a speed sensor. That was the main problem in the end. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Been fighting with wiring the last few days, added trailer wiring for 7pin RV trailer and brake controller, and refreshed the old butchered in 4 pin wiring. Tore the rear light harness out as the previous batch of owners had butchered the harness. Added an additional ground on the passenger side, an additional ground from battery to inner fender (like the late models did), and cleaned up the rear harness. All the remains is to repair the harness before the plug as another previous owner had decided to add 5 Scotch Locs to three wires ... I mean really?!?! Swapped the front seat out for a 93 Laredo passenger seat from a 4dr XJ because my current seat is had. It's maroon so it'll constantly remind me I need to find new seats once again. But it's still comfy as hell so in it went. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

In that case go with a set of Napier. If you were closer and needed a Short Box, I'd offer mine. I'm planning to drop the box and go flat bed at some point. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

They'll hold up to moderate trail work. Lean the body against a tree with the weight of the vehicle behind it though ... Wanna guess why I swapped to tube flares on my XJ that used to run Napier? They are great flares, don't get me wrong, just not up to "island trails". I cracked the rear body section of my driver side flare (XJ 4dr version) when I got stuck leaning against a tree, couldn't get enough traction to go up, and going back meant more damage due to the angles. Crunch, crackle goes the flare and out came the winch. IMO if you plan to lean the trees, go steel, plastic just won't hold up. But if you do go plastic ... Napier has my vote. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Ok, might be a weird one here ... What effect would using a second main, cut down, and inserted upside down have on the stock leaf pack? I'm trying to increase load capacity slightly (say about halfway between MT and stock), and hoping to lower slightly (maybe 2", but I don't want to go up at all). I have a few pairs of Cherokee and Comanche leaves to chose bits from. Thanks for any help. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk