Rockfrog

I've often thought of using a black box (econo) and hanging a Ford NP208 off the rear on my XJ. That allows for addition of a Ford 205 at a later date should the need arise. Never had an issue with the 208 I abused in my Bronco. The 208 is far from perfect but should work for my uses. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Only two sizes were used in the entire production run, Spicer 260x was standard with the Spicer 297x being the other. If the joints you got were too big, you need the 260x, if the joints you got were too small, you need the 297x (now known as the 760x). Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The angle of your sway bar is way out, you need longer sway links, the bar ends should point up about 10-15 degrees, this also helps pull the ends away from the coil. Otherwise a relocation bracket is about all you can do. And I agree, pulling an upper is no way to make a 3link, that just sounds scary. The stock sized upper bushings are definitely not up to that task. The IRO kit is more of a radius arm with only one side tied to the upper correct? So, not really a 3 link anyway, but functional enough I imagine. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

That's an awesome idea, with the AMC logo before Comanche option as well, for us earlier types. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The change over was in 96 ... And you'll need the matching intake as well because they changed the mounting bosses. I have 96 pump/brackets on a 99 ZJ (00 XJ) intake, on a 92 head, on an 88 block. Leg bone connects to the ... Ironically I also have the 88 PS pulley on that same 96 pump as I didn't like the looks of the pulley attached. Was pretty gnarled up, just need to drill the access holes the later pump pulleys had now, cause smart Ole me use Allen head bolts to mount the damn thing of course. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Considerably, 32mm and straight across the front. But my current bar position is a fair bit forward of the stock position which makes the TJ bar possible. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I would suggest converting to the later style plug, if only because the stock plugs were usually so damn corroded. Mine was a ball of green crud. Swapped to the late model plug and copied the wiring scheme on my 2000 XJ to wire it to the 88's harness. Helped having a connector tool to move wires about in the plugs as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I have driven my 00 XJ without the front sway bar installed for about 2 years before adding the TJ bar. I did go with a much higher spring rate in the front though. Was fine around town and on the highway, as mentioned I just had to adjust my driving habits accordingly. Having the Dakota based bastard pack (with overloads still) and a higher rate in the front, makes it drive closer to a stock XJ really. Now with the TJ bar up front ... For a lifted XJ ... She handles tight. But, I also don't drive my XJ like a ricer, I have the MJ for that. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The whole idea of rear ABS was to increase braking, but still allow the rear wheels to spin a bit to keep the vehicle tracking straight. Did it really work, not so much as most people rarely get in and adjust the drum brakes making them all but ineffective. ABS is part of the dumbing down of driving so even the simplest person can drive safer. The generations of drivers that survived the pre-90's and learned to actually drive are slowly dwindling. To be replaced with automatic braking, automatic stability (aka "fix that dumb thing I did while texting at 120km/h" system) and even automatic parking (the giant facepalm just doesn't cut it). Sure it makes the vehicle safer, but makes the future driver dumber, and unable to cope with conditions should anything fail (like a simple lack of maintenance). I'll stay with standard brakes and my own decision making thanks, I don't need a quality safety system sending me into a divider because it thought I was turning inappropriately when a brake pad stuck for a second on a poorly design caliper design. OK, sorry, I'm done. Just been on the receiving end of crappy "safety systems" too long. My simple, pre-historic MJ is far safer than my old 08 JK with all its safety systems ever was. And far more predictable. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

There was... the 87-90 Renix, smaller holes and molded system, aluminum VC. The 91-~94ish HO, 1/4 turn CCV nipples, aluminum VC. The 95ish (maybe only 96) HO, pop in grommet style nipple, aluminum VC. And then late 96 up stamped steel VC with pop in grommets and CCV hose nipple. I have the late model stamped cover on a 92 head on my 88 block MJ. I also have a 91 VC on a 93 head on my 00 block XJ, but at one time had a Renix VC as well. Use the gasket that matches the year of the cylinder head being used. So 87-90 (2686), 91-99 (7120, 0630), and 00 (0331) up. I personally prefer the stamped steel cover as they seal better than the aluminum covers, and corrosion is less of a concern, the aluminum cover on my XJ looks pretty crappy after 3yrs in new paint yet it's original stamped cover still looks new on the MJ. Good thing I snagged another 00 VC to fix that. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Mine does something similar time to time, my lights themselves are good. I have the Euramtec lights with LED bulbs. My issue is always the drivers door switch. When the don't come on it's because the switch had corroded and didn't connect ground. When the stay on it's usually rain getting in there and completing ground (usually a very dim light). Generally I just have to clean them time to time and it's all good. The door switches are a simple pass through ground, wire in is the same as out, all ground. Very simple. If the wiring/connections at the lights are good, I would suspect a chafe in the wire or broken/corroded wire, as the wire itself moves with these style switches when the plunger moves. I soldered my wires to the housings and added new connectors in the circuit about 6" from the light. I have also considered switching to the later style door switches as the are less prone to these types of intermittent contact issues with a more shrouded design and a property protected connector style. Hopefully you figure it out, mine drove me nuts until I knew what the issue was, kept popping on while I was driving home from work. Driving 250kms at night with the interior lights on got old real fast. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I finally found a source for the quick disconnect to AN fittings for the radiator side. Upper firing can be swapped with a 3/8" male inverted flare fitting, but the lowers on most rads are soldered to the cooler. The fitting mate to that tube and allow a -6AN fitting to be attached. They are a 3/8" GM fuel/oil/trans fitting when searching. Found mine on eBay, as usual these days. So now I finally have all the fittings needed to re-plumb the XJ's AW4 ... And a complete solenoid kit as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I picked up the black reflective "Jeep" decal as well. I also had him make the door decals, "MJ" tag and hood decal out of the same material. Still undecided on a final color, so they sit unapplied so far. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Patriot wheels also have the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern and can be found in 16 and 17" sizes. I believe the newer Liberty's also have a 17" option as well. Or there is the "controversial" Charger/Challenger/Magnum wheels with 16, 17, 18 and 20" sizes available. If you are looking for an equivalent size to what you started with, drop the aspect ratio by 10 for each inch you increase the wheel size (as demonstrated in the previous posts). It's not exact but fairly close. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Fuel lines are pretty straight forward, use the portion from a donor from the firewall forward. Or there are GM fitting available at Canadian Tire that snap on/off like stock as well, I did that first with some rubber hose until I found the correct HO fuel lines at a later date. IAT will thread in fine and has plenty of length to hook up, if you want more just unspool it from the harness. HO throttle cable, and bend the Renix pedal to give full throw (which essentially makes it an HO pedal). TPS adapting is a bit more involved but I made my adapter with a hand drill, hacksaw and handfiles ... So not a major project, just time consuming. Since the intake is pre 96 everything else will bolt on fine. Hell, I even swapped my 88 PS pulley onto the HO pump (in my case a 98) since the other was damaged. Just doesn't have the hole the later ones need to access the bolts. What are the issues with the header? Was it aftermarket I'm guessing? Both my 2000 XJ (93 head) and my MJ (92 head) use the 99+ intake and a stock HO manifold without issues. Sealed up fine. But I'm not trying to make it work on a 2686 casting either. Honestly, since you've gone that far already, swapping the head will save you a lot of headache. And improve fitment issues. Block to head mating didn't change on the XJ/MJ platform with the only exception being the addition of locating dowels added to the head in the later years. But that's a non issue as you don't want a 0331 head anyway. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Mine used to be on my XJ, as a front recovery point ... And then I started using it to move my trailer about the driveway as well, handy as hell in my mind. Easier repositioning the trailer in a narrow driveway when you can see it as well. But, I'm somewhat weird that way. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

After reading through this, glad my MJ came with a hitch on the arse end tied into the factory bumper already. Options, I likes my options. Be adding a front receiver hitch shortly as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Ok, for the trans interlock cable, can't remember if I had to tear into the column to disable mine ... Did when changing the lock cylinder. Seem to remember I just had to remove the cable and flip something around to hold the locking arm in place. May have bee the orientation of the spring in it so it held down instead of up. Seem to remember I got at it from below the tilt so no disassembly of the column I suspect. Follow the cable, it goes into a rod/plastic rod with a spring inside. Again trying to remember 2yrs ago with a mind that barely remembers last week these days. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

FYI - for those reading later ... The input shaft Pilot diameters changed in 1991, to 3/4". So going by internal/external slave isn't going to help there. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The Renix ports are only 1/8" lower than the HO's. It's been done before plenty. That said, I opted for an HO head and intake when I put my 88 Renix together. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Pop the cover. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Gogmorgo, the 29spl carriers are slightly different to allow for the larger 29spl spiders, carrier swap is the only way to upgrade the axle that way. Housings/gears are the same though. While that is possible (carrier swap), consider the expense of doing that if you can't swap it in yourself. Though, really you'd only be setting backlash, and the 8.25 has threaded adjusters. It would definitely be the way to go, if your up to it. I recently found a 29spl 8.25 for $75, just to put a price perspective on it. And that's in "everything Jeep must be made of gold" territory. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I swapped a 92 XJ auto column with tilt and intermittent wipers into my 88 MJ (5spd, non tilt, std wipers). All I had to do was add the box for intermittent, and disable the auto's shift interlock. The IGN switch may or may not seem like it is different ... If it does, just flip the blue and black IGN switch plugs around and then upside down. You'll know what I mean if you see the need. Not sure if it happened in 92 or 91 but the IGN switch was turned around in that time, same connectors, different orientation. Everything else was a simple plug and play. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I kinda does fit the symptoms, and I have been stuck in that trap of dancing around the simple issue plenty of times myself. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So after going through all of that, has anyone check fuel pressure at the rail? Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk