Rockfrog

Yes, brown wire becomes the blower switch "signal" wire, and a new feed wire goes through the relay to the switch. Thereby reducing the load seen by the brown wire, and possibly helping the blower circuit with a full voltage feed. Which if all things I've thought are right, should also reduce the Amperage at the switch by way of increased available voltage. Which is usually the root of all evil with the MJ's wiring, massive voltage drops increasing average loads. At least the way I see it.

By increasing the available voltage, to a full 12V instead of the 10V remaining after all the excess draw due to multiple circuits drawing from one lead. And instead of having the supply feed take to long drawn out route I can wire it direct (read - shorter run on wire). More available Voltage means less Amperage draw no?

To go back, yeah, was thinking a 10ga supply lead through the firewall. As for the relay, I see it as the switch is getting the short end of the stick, as all the other high draw circuits leave little voltage available for the blower ... Thus the draw goes up due to increases resistance. By adding the relay ahead of the switch, I cut all those out and the blower will see full voltage again. And as a result of lower existence in the circuit ... The switch should see longer lifespans. Even with a new alternator in the mix (100A). I am still seeing the usual draw down to nearly 9V when driving at night with the heat on and the wipers going. Pretty standard stuff for a Renix. Cruiser - did that one last week. And have a 1990 harness to swap out one day to Eliminate my C101 (the last tip that needs doing). Love my Renix, she runs like a top, and gives me few issues, even with a warped exhaust manifold and worn rings. Gotta fix that eventually too. But she just keeps going.

My plan is to cut the brown lead prior to the switch and wire the relay in there. So the brown wire becomes the signal only as far as the blower is concerned, then a new fused wire from battery to blower switch, with a heavier Guage. Should help some as there should be less resistance in the new wire and not having all the other circuits on the same lead. I see the old wiring and multiple heavy draw circuits as the root of all evil here.

Yeah then found an Allen key to fit slightly oversized for a full press fit. Trimmed the square side of the socket so the screw on the TPS holds it on, not tight but snug. Eventually I will remake my adapter to eliminate the spacers I used as well or find a better option for a spacer ... Like maybe your bracket idea.

Just try to minic the later (94+) pattern ... Adding a relay to the mains in should work fine the way I see it, 4 is overkill and more than ever came from the factory. I've never had the issue with me 00 XJ and it only has the one relay. The reason I originally asked was I wanted to move some load off that cursed brown wire.

FYI - you have no Check engine light ... The engine maintenance light is simply on a timer, it lights to remind you to replace the O2 sensor. So really just disregard that light on this issue.

Ok, makes sense, here's a link to what I was getting at. Once the Allen key bar is pressed in it's one piece. http://comancheclub.com/index.php?/topic/41953-'Ratmanche'-the-'88-Comanche#entry454597 Basicly the same as what you planned just easier to make.

I currently have a 92 XJ auto tilt column in my 88 5spd MJ. The wiring connectors are all the same but the 91 and newer have the blue/black side reversed and flipped upside down. After pulling apart a 92,and 93 they are near identical wiring/connector wise to my 88, thing changed dramatically at the connectors in 94 though. There are a few different ones in the 93 (courtesy lights and minor things). Since I have the newer Chrysler style key in my 88 ignition ... I've toyed with the idea of rekey-ing it to match my XJ. I still have the earlier GM door locks though, but will eventually find newer doors to swap so I can lose a key off my chain.

Well ... Quick update ... Life got me all busy and such. Let me try to remember what happened over the last few months ... Converted to a 86-94 GM 2.8L TPS (only needed two wires swapped). Replaced the Alternator with a reman AC Delco 100A CS-130. The clutch master cylinder calved on me (turned out the mainspring snapped in half) so swapped that out. The old distributor decided it liked to piss oil as much as it made sparks ... So another swap out for a newer 1990 unit stopped that leak. Moved the IAT onto the intake tube. Did another round of connector refreshing. Painted the wheels black, Decided I'm going to spring over the rear and lift the front to match (but keep the factory rake). But that goes on the list of future doings. She's been getting me to work and back since she hit the road, about 500kms every two weeks (250 in to camp, 250 out each week). When I swapped the alt a bunch of my tapping went away. At this point I'm almost positive most of my noise is coming from the warped exhaust manifold leaks. Figure to try a simple redone of the cylinders, and swap manifolds for one that seals. She still has tons of go so a new set of rings should seal her up and cure the start up smoking. New seals for the head might help too (it's nothing major, but really obvious in the winter - go away after about 10mins driving). And she still desperately needs a paint job.

How are you actuating the TPS arm, doesn't look like they are in position. Is there a missing piece to the puzzle? A 1/4" dr 11/32" socket fits perfectly over the HO throttle "bar" (part the TPS mounts to). Trim it down to size (most are too long). And drill hole and press a rod (I used an old chunk Allen key) to actuate the Renix TPS arm. Simple, effective, and captured. I like the way you made the bracket ... way easier to make than how I made my adapter.

Which guages are not reading? Which guages are wrong? Simple test of the guage is to unhook the Op sensor wire, and ground it. It should run full sweep between the two conditions (disconnected and grounded). The temp is tested in similar fashion.

Never heard of one, don't think there is one in an MJ. Usually they would be mounted to the back of the cluster (as my old Ford did). My 88 is direct wired from what I have found under my dash. Cluster does not have a regulator or relay on it, nothing in the harness, AFAIK it runs off 12v direct from the fuse panel. The sensors are all directly wired as well.

It is how it starts, learned myself in similar fashion. Traded my good running car for a "better car" with overheating issues. My cousin said, "sure I can fix it, but you're gonna do the work and learn. Slight overheating issue, became complete head/gasket swap. New fuel system, and it just kept going ... Been fixing my own junk ever since. Started to like the fight really, and the satisfaction of winning that fight. Keeps me sane as I see it. Really, being able to save on repair costs, and being able to troubleshoot/diagnose/repair on the fly (sometime in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road) is a true life skill. I look at my MJ "Ratmanche" as a labour of love, sometimes she loves me a little less than other times.

Just wanted to jump in and ask about ZJ boosters ... I have a complete booster master prop assembly from a 95 Grand Cherokee (ZJ). Has anyone tried these before? I got it for the prop valve to go with my rear disk conversion. It is a dual diaphragm unit. Just curious on whether it is compatible or not?

Resistance creates heat, bleeding off voltage as heat, the ballast resistor does this already, the corrosion simply added to the effect and likely reduced available amperage/voltage to below operating levels. Just the way I see it, I'm no electrical engineer. I'm on the bypass it and move along group, a little fuel pump noise is not an issue for me. Not that the pump is really all that noisy anyway.

I can find it (MMO) at Can Tire and Walmart around my neck of the woods.

They follow the same pattern as the 231, pre 91 and 4cyl had 21 spline inputs, 91+ 6cyl were all 23 spline. The often talked about medium input was primarily in the early 21 spline cases, and the ZJ V8vs had the long spline inputs. Most XJ's were all the same length. Around 97 they 23* series and 24* (and I suspect most NP/NVG 'cases) were changed internally, the main shaft needle bearings were eliminated in favour of an oil film bearing, and the internal brass synchro was changed and made a stationary guide as a part of the main shaft. The reason early 231/242's hung so bad was simple synchro wear. The 242 shares many parts with the 231, such as the entire input and planetary assemblies.

The 249 has a viscous coupling, the 242 is a simple mechanical differential.

The 242 is a fine transfer case, If you have been through a gear driven case as you mentioned the 242 is child's play. Generally 242's don't go bad anymore than a 231 does, and usually for the same reasons ... Poor maintenance/low fluid. It has no weird gimmickery inside, it is a simple geared differential inside to allow for the full-time 4wd range. They do tend to be a little finicky when shifting though but that's about the only real negative. They are stronger in some aspects than the 231 (chain and front outputs), and equal in others.

They do, but more filter media is always better ... These have twice the filter media due to being twice as long. It also means a bit more oil in the mix so more oil and more filter ... Win, win.

Added that to my MJ last summer when I drew and quartered an XJ Laredo ... it's a nice feature. Curious on where you go with tip 31

Yep, same here ... Been using FL-1A's on all my 4.0 and 2.5's since back in 92 when I had a YJ. Swapped my OFA nipple so my Renix uses them too. Pretty much the most common filter size/pattern around you can practice buy them at a 7-11.

No need to rewire, just replace the block. Salvage the head from the motor currently in the truck and call it done. All the bosses are there same as the 97 motor you have. My 2000 XJ has a 2000 block and a 1993 head and exhaust. Also, it has a 1998 casting date on the block (as will all the 2001 XJ 4.0L blocks care to guess why?) My 1988 MJ has a 1988 block, 1992 head, 2000 intake, 1996 steering pump/bracket, 2000 motor mounts, 2000 water pump, 1994 fuel rail, 1994 HO throttle body and is still managed by the Renix EFI system. In short the blocks are completely compatible ... Especially since you have a newer block already.

Huh? The ZJ entered production for the 93 model year ... Making a mid 92 build date the first build date. Essentially meaning all ZJ would have the quick ratio box ... No?