sidepipe87

Ok, thanks guys. I'll have to test it by grounding it out.

My 86 2.5 has a newer gauge cluster in it (has a Chrysler pentastar on the back) and the oil sensor is pegged past 80. I replaced the sender and it didn't move so I'm guessing the gauge itself is messed up. I grabbed what seemed to be a matching cluster from an XJ this weekend at the junkyard and didn't realize until I got home that it was a newer style that didn't have a speedo cable... So obviously I can't use this whole cluster, however I'm wondering if the oil sensor itself would work? I'd guess that it would be the same but I could be wrong. It would be awesome if they interchange.

I saw this on TheDudes Comanche this past weekend. It looked very nice. Question... I thought I read the AX4/AX5 have a different thread pattern than the AX15 is that correct?

It was actually $20 when I posted the ad, then saw last night it went down to $10 haha. So that is not a factory rollbar then?

The oil pressure gauge in my 2.5 MJ is always maxed out no matter what. Did some research on here and found the Renix will default to maxed out when it fails, so I bought a new oil pressure sender and went to install it. The previous owner apparently just disconnected the sender and screwed an oil line in its place at the block which connects to an aftermarket Autometer oil pressure gauge which is just kind of hanging out in the console... I don't care for this and want it back to stock however I cannot find which wire was supposed to connect to the sender. Anyone know which color wire I should be looking for in the engine bay? Also, I bought a sender for a gauge not idiot light since my cluster has gauges. Well when I pulled the cluster the other day I saw it had a Chrysler pentastar on it (truck is an 86) so it must've been replaced. Will the wiring be different if the truck came with idiot lights and not a gauge? What I really need to do is buy a factory service manual but I've found a few and don't know which one is the correct one I need or if there are multiple. I've seen M.R. 277 and M.R. 278 body manual and not sure what the difference between them is.

I just came across this on Craigslist. Looks to be a legitimate Comanche rollbar, but I'm not an expert so I could be wrong. The price sure is right if it is and you're looking for one. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4339516405.html

TheDude - PM'd you back about the carpet. Here's the MJ by my work. It's rougher than I thought it was.

I agree with above. I buy tons of stuff from rock auto and have never seen the price higher before shipping. I just recently pieced together an entire new MJ exhaust from them because it was cheaper after shipping than going through NAPA, Advance, Pep boys, or Auto Zone. They have great prices most of the time and you can always ise a 5% discount code. I agree, for something with a core its a hassle, but i just buy those items locally.

There's a beige and brown one I see everyday at work in Southpointe. The guy works in the building across the street from my work.

Came across these on ebay and figured someone might want these for their rollbar lights. http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Wrangler-Fog-Light-Covers-6-/291054420705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c43202e1&vxp=mtr

Ryan grab some pics for me if you wouldn't mind. I'm curious haha.

I wouldn't mind a 4.0 HO swap at some point but I understand the '86 firewall will either need to be "massaged" or have a portion of it replaced to fit the 4.0 properly. I didn't know the newer 2.5 TBI manifold bolted on. I'd assume they don't have the coolant passages running through them though, or do they?

Sounds good to me, I'll have to give that a try. When searching to find out what those coolant ports were numerous people said they would be hesitant to reconnect them adter they had been disconnected for some tome because the manifolds were prone to crack when removing rhem. I'll just give it a shot and see what happens.

Yeah, definitely gimmicky for sure. However from the probably hundreds of times i have ordered from them generally it does end up being a bit cheaper, plus i always use a 5% discount code. If you look at my exhaust post above I believe I saved something like $39 even after shipping buying from RA versus buying locally... They don't seem to mark up their prices as badly as some of the big chain auto parts stores do.

Huh, interesting. My coolant temp and oil pressure gauges don't work and someone wired up aftermarket ones. I'm curious if this is related to the coolant lines being disconnected. I was under the impression there was another sensor somewhere else specifically for the coolant temp gauge though. I was hesitant to hook it back up because people said once it's disconnected there's a decent chance the manifold will crack and coolant will then get into the inner intake Oh yeah, I agree totally. I have at least 2 of every different Rock Auto magnet out there I think haha. It is stupid how they charge shipping for each item when they're stocked at the same warehouse.