sidepipe87

Ok, thanks guys. I'll have to test it by grounding it out.

My 86 2.5 has a newer gauge cluster in it (has a Chrysler pentastar on the back) and the oil sensor is pegged past 80. I replaced the sender and it didn't move so I'm guessing the gauge itself is messed up. I grabbed what seemed to be a matching cluster from an XJ this weekend at the junkyard and didn't realize until I got home that it was a newer style that didn't have a speedo cable... So obviously I can't use this whole cluster, however I'm wondering if the oil sensor itself would work? I'd guess that it would be the same but I could be wrong. It would be awesome if they interchange.

I saw this on TheDudes Comanche this past weekend. It looked very nice. Question... I thought I read the AX4/AX5 have a different thread pattern than the AX15 is that correct?

It was actually $20 when I posted the ad, then saw last night it went down to $10 haha. So that is not a factory rollbar then?

The oil pressure gauge in my 2.5 MJ is always maxed out no matter what. Did some research on here and found the Renix will default to maxed out when it fails, so I bought a new oil pressure sender and went to install it. The previous owner apparently just disconnected the sender and screwed an oil line in its place at the block which connects to an aftermarket Autometer oil pressure gauge which is just kind of hanging out in the console... I don't care for this and want it back to stock however I cannot find which wire was supposed to connect to the sender. Anyone know which color wire I should be looking for in the engine bay? Also, I bought a sender for a gauge not idiot light since my cluster has gauges. Well when I pulled the cluster the other day I saw it had a Chrysler pentastar on it (truck is an 86) so it must've been replaced. Will the wiring be different if the truck came with idiot lights and not a gauge? What I really need to do is buy a factory service manual but I've found a few and don't know which one is the correct one I need or if there are multiple. I've seen M.R. 277 and M.R. 278 body manual and not sure what the difference between them is.

I just came across this on Craigslist. Looks to be a legitimate Comanche rollbar, but I'm not an expert so I could be wrong. The price sure is right if it is and you're looking for one. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4339516405.html

TheDude - PM'd you back about the carpet. Here's the MJ by my work. It's rougher than I thought it was.

I agree with above. I buy tons of stuff from rock auto and have never seen the price higher before shipping. I just recently pieced together an entire new MJ exhaust from them because it was cheaper after shipping than going through NAPA, Advance, Pep boys, or Auto Zone. They have great prices most of the time and you can always ise a 5% discount code. I agree, for something with a core its a hassle, but i just buy those items locally.

There's a beige and brown one I see everyday at work in Southpointe. The guy works in the building across the street from my work.

Came across these on ebay and figured someone might want these for their rollbar lights. http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Wrangler-Fog-Light-Covers-6-/291054420705?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c43202e1&vxp=mtr

Ryan grab some pics for me if you wouldn't mind. I'm curious haha.

I wouldn't mind a 4.0 HO swap at some point but I understand the '86 firewall will either need to be "massaged" or have a portion of it replaced to fit the 4.0 properly. I didn't know the newer 2.5 TBI manifold bolted on. I'd assume they don't have the coolant passages running through them though, or do they?

Sounds good to me, I'll have to give that a try. When searching to find out what those coolant ports were numerous people said they would be hesitant to reconnect them adter they had been disconnected for some tome because the manifolds were prone to crack when removing rhem. I'll just give it a shot and see what happens.

Yeah, definitely gimmicky for sure. However from the probably hundreds of times i have ordered from them generally it does end up being a bit cheaper, plus i always use a 5% discount code. If you look at my exhaust post above I believe I saved something like $39 even after shipping buying from RA versus buying locally... They don't seem to mark up their prices as badly as some of the big chain auto parts stores do.

Huh, interesting. My coolant temp and oil pressure gauges don't work and someone wired up aftermarket ones. I'm curious if this is related to the coolant lines being disconnected. I was under the impression there was another sensor somewhere else specifically for the coolant temp gauge though. I was hesitant to hook it back up because people said once it's disconnected there's a decent chance the manifold will crack and coolant will then get into the inner intake Oh yeah, I agree totally. I have at least 2 of every different Rock Auto magnet out there I think haha. It is stupid how they charge shipping for each item when they're stocked at the same warehouse.

Awesome! Thanks for the good info on both. I figured the filter was something for the pcv/ccv setup but wasn't too sure. I'm have to get a new one and get it hooked up. Also, i went ahead and ordered the proper style o2 sensor for the truck last night. Rock Auto had them on closeout so i got it at a discount.

haha welcome aboard my good neon buddy Ryan Well I have a few questions I'm hoping I can get some clarification on. First off, I got the charcoal canister from onlyinajeep but cannot for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to mount in my 2.5s engine bay?? I can't find a picture anywhere of a 2.5 engine bay with a charcoal canister. The vac diagram shows it on the passenger side somewhere but there's no logical place the bracket mounts up. Any help on this? The next thing is the heat only works through the defrosters. I looked under the whole front end and finally found the vacuum ball behind the front bumper... But when I pull it out (bracket was broken off) it looks like this... Not too surprising that my heat controls don't work. I need to find a new 2.5 or compatible vacuum ball/reservoir/tank whatever you call it Also, the previous owner had tossed this in the bed of the truck... some sort of filter, but what is it? I've looked up that number on it but it comes back with nothing And finally a picture of the truck outside with the new wheels. My pride and joy had to sit out overnight and get all covered in snow then got stuck on the ice in the back yard... :shake: I also discovered the aftermarket o2 sensor only has one wire and was spliced in... as in they cut one of the wires from what I assume to be the oem o2 connector and wired it up and that's it... I assume this might play into it running $#!&ty. I plan to rewire the connector and install a direct fit o2 sensor.

Great, thanks guys. I'll try again I must've missed it.

I was looking to update my project log title as I go along, and generally on forums you can do so by editing the first post however I did not see that working here. Is there some other way to do it, or can you not change the title?

Well I got the vacuum canister from onlyinajeep yesterday but didn't get a chance to get it all hooked up yet. In fact I'm not even sure where exactly it mounts yet. I did however realize the 2 vac lines near the EGR I couldn't find are nipples on the plastic air cleaner at the TB. Last night I pulled the truck in the garage and began ripping the old rusted out exhaust off to replace with the new parts I got from Rock Auto. I ended up not needing the exhaust donut (2.5 doesn't use it), 4 bolt flange seal at the cat (new cat came with one) and 1 of the 2 pipe clamps (cat came with one of those too), so I could've potentially saved about $20 on parts. I got the exhaust all fitted last night but didn't clamp it all up because I needed to go buy 2 new rubber hangers since mine were shot at the muffler hangers. Here's the old stuff I ripped off I took note of the red springs on the front of the truck... I saw Rock Auto sells Rancho springs which are red, maybe that's what these are? Also, I picked up 5 16" TJ Moabs with MTR tires yesterday for $900 from a local guy... I also realized the heater never blows out of anywhere other than the defroster. Presumably because of a vacuum leak. Well it turns out there is no round vacuum expansion chamber behind the grille on the passenger side where I believe there should be one. I'd guess maybe this is why. The aftermarket o2 on the truck is not a direct replacement piece, but rather they cut one wire off the connector and wired it into the only wire on the o2 sensor... I'll be soldering that wire back on the connector and putting a stock o2 sensor back on the truck. Once I get some of this stuff cleaned up hopefully it will run better. I have yet to start it up after fixing the exhaust so I'm anxious to see how it sounds.

Ohhh that makes much more sense! I was scratching my head as to how a Ram headliner could possibly be the same size as an MJ and how there was no dome light. Stupid question. :thwak:

What body style Ram is the headliner from? 94-01? The one in my MJ is shot and the backing is destroyed too.

What kind of flares were you going to go with? I had the idea of sectioning two rear 97+ cherokee flares together to make some to match the 97+ front flares but that will probably be a ton of work and I don't know if there are any size/shape differences between the two. I do like the Napier v2 flares but I don't think they will fit my truck being that it is a LWB MJ. The gas door will be in the way.

Alumilite is very often used for casting scale model parts. Automotive, figurine, etc. It is fairly tricky to work with on larger no simple shapes or I'd give it a shot. I just messaged the guy from Klearz so I'll see what he says and reply back here.

I have a passenger side one cracked on mine and was looking for a replacement and saw no one makes them in the aftermarket. I have an idea though which I can follow up on... Their is a Canadian company (really just 1 guy that does this from home) called Klearz that makes mainly clear or smoked lenses for cars, but will also do OEM style. I bought a set of smoked 300M Special turn signal mirror lenses from him and he was very easy to get a hold of and deal with. The one came cracked due to postage mishandling and the fact they are small and brittle. He immediately sent me out a new set no questions asked. I will ask him about possibly making these and approximate costs. He would obviously need a set of lenses to use for the mold. I only have one set but my truck is not my dail driver though so I may be able to help out there. I'll contact him and find out... By the way, here is the website: http://www,klearz.com EDIT - This would only be for replacement lenses, not the entire bucket assembly I'd assume.