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LarryH88bt

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About LarryH88bt

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    Comanche Aficionado

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    Shelton, CT

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  1. I'm looking to do this but I'm not good at electrical. It just doesn't click in my brain like other things. Where/how does the new harness wire into the switch to turn em on/off? With all the wires snaking around under the hood and dash it seems easier to just do an entirely new switch than using the factory plunger switch. I have a Renix if that matters.
  2. Looks like it will be okay welded. The bolt threads through fine I just need a fresh one. Someone tried to fix this in the past because some of the bracket bolts had anti-seize and the adjustment sleeve itself had JB weld :doh: . I think my crummy welds will do fine. Thanks for the offer Schardein, but save those for someone else in need.
  3. Today I removed my power steering bracket to drill out a broken bolt. I then found this: The adjustment bolt sleeve snapped in half, probably a long time ago, from the bolt seizing, I've always been able to adjust the belt with the two bolts behind the ps pump. I have not found any new replacement parts, doubt I ever will, and this being a Renix 4.0, my local junkyard probably doesn't have any. Anyone know if the HO stuff would work? There is a 95 XJ being parted out nearby. I'll grab the block bracket and the adjustment bracket that sits behind the pulley holding the sleeve in. If not, I'm going to try and weld the sleeve back together and hope the threads line up so I can remove the bolt or at least just shove it back in the way it was....
  4. ^^^ That was the thread I couldn't find. I did something similar with o-rings. Soldering wasn't going to work, I'm just not skilled with it. Not going to try the gas tank putty this time. Probably will on my other unit since that one has a hole in the inlet tubes. I'll take some pics eventually.
  5. I've already cleaned it up, the small hole is to bolt in the ground wire and solder it closed from the back. The big problem is the plastic plug for the fuel pump wires. How am I going to secure and seal it?
  6. Did you adjust the TPS to the correct volt range? There are two adjustments, one for idle, one for the transmission.
  7. No change with the above. Tried some different positions for the TC switch at the pedal again. Brake lights work fine, I know that switch has something to do with the TC as well. Might have to check the solenoids next? Seems like a stretch since the trans was rebuilt by the previous owner ten years ago and I haven't put more than 20k on the truck since. But I won't test them until probably April next year :D I only drive it once or twice a week and probably not at all once the city starts salting the roads.
  8. TPS adjusted within range according to my hayne's manual and one other source. It's reading .84 closed and 4.35 wide open, book and the other source says between .5 closed and 4.8 open is normal. Throttle Valve cable adjusted fine. Going to try testing the white TC switch near the brake pedal and adjusting the brake light switch again.
  9. Control arms? Coil spring? I had a clunk the front of my subaru, turned out to be a broken coil spring in the strut.
  10. Turned the white box a couple times so the plunger was compressed a bit, didn't change much. I got on the highway and manually shifted from 3rd to OD a few times. The RPM's do drop going into OD but still stay higher than they used to. And it still stays in 3rd around town, chugs along around 1900 at 40mph, used to go into overdrive around there and roll around at about 1500 at 45mph. Going to check under the hood again because I did have to remove the throttle cable to do the injectors. Might as well readjust the TPS again while I'm there.
  11. Aw4 yes, stock 235x75 tires. My 'used to be' was just a guesstimate. I adjusted the TPS a while ago, haven't touched it since. I'll have to try moving the TC thingy near the brake pedal. Should it be compressed or totally off the brake pedal? Driving my Subaru on the highway the other day, a four cylinder, I watched the RPM, same as the jeep in OD, so my Jeep is definitely too high, a straight 6 should not be turning as fast as a little four banger. I do 'feel' it going to overdrive, I can manually move the shifter down to third and the RPM's go up, pop it back into OD but the RPM's don't drop as much as they should. So the TC isn't locking? Thanks.
  12. 88 renix 4.0 auto. Did a 2000WJ master cyl and booster upgrade and Ford 19lbs v8 injectors not too long ago. It runs and stops far better but the RPM's have changed, so has the overdrive. Once its all nice and warm it idles in park at 900, which seems high, the old injectors it idled around 500-600. Also the overdrive isn't kicking in until almost 50. It used to go into OD around 40. And at highway speeds, it still seems high, doing 55 I'm almost at 2000 rpm, used to only be around 1600 in overdrive at 55. 60-65 I'm closer to 2500 rpm, again, used to be around 300-400 rpm lower before I changed the injectors. I did adjust the torque converter thingy, the white box at the brake pedal, and the TC works just fine. I had to remove the throttle cables to do the injectors but everything there seems in order. Or were the old injectors just total junk and this is how its supposed to be? Could the 10 overbore, pistons, and the HO 4.0 camshaft be part of it?
  13. I second checking the calipers themselves. Take them off and use a big ol' pair of pliers to see if they compress.
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