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About Megadan

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    MJ Junkie

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    Omaha, NE

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  1. They do draw less current than a typical H4 bulb. Per Trucklite specs they draw 1.8 Amps at 12.8V, which is 23 Watts. high beam is 3.6 Amps at 12.8 Volts, or 46 watts. This is roughly half of a typical H4 bulb (55W/60W), so in theory you could get away without running a relay harness. The main reason many of us use the relay harness is to take the load of the headlights off of the headlight switch, which takes the full current of the lights, and changes it to a very low current circuit that triggers the relays that are powered off of battery sourced power.
  2. I agree 100%. It makes a huge difference in light output from the halogen lamps alone, along with saving that poor switch in the process.
  3. They offer a separate set of stiffeners that mount to the inside of the forward frame rails and the left hand unit also has built in spacers so the factory steering box spacer is eliminated. Not really a necessity, just a curiosity. I will probably never actually need stiffeners either, but I am predisposed to Victorian era overkill. - aka barn door simplicity I actually want to fully stitch weld the unibody once I get into tearing my truck apart, and it would be nice to fully integrate a set of stiffeners to it as well. I won't be crashing over boulders like some guys here, but I like
  4. If costing a bit more means I don't have to then modify the things to make them work properly then I am all for paying a bit more. You learn that lesson really quick when you get too old and tired to want to waste time doing something that should have been done right the first time. Are you planning on offering a steering box stiffening section as well?
  5. I might not be a good tester, but I am definitely interested. I was just eyeballing the full setup from T&M Fabrication as part of my MJ "revival." I have been nothing but pleased with the hitch you built for me, and I would love nothing more than to support you by purchasing a set of these for my LWB 88 Pioneer. Especially if the price is comparable. My question to you is, what thickness are you planning on going with?
  6. There are quite a few out there. The MJ/XJ use 5 x 7" headlights, so take your pick. Just be aware that you do get what you pay for. That $80 pair from amazon or ebay is cheaper than the headlight it is a knock off of for a reason. The ultimate tried and true would be a pair of Trucklite's 27450C, or the Rigid Industries equivalent, which is basically the same headlight. A pair of them will run around $350 from most retailers. I have personal experience with Trucklite headlights in both a car and a bike, and I can tell you they are worth the money. I tried some cheaper knock offs, and
  7. Glad I could offer a possible solution. Just keep in mind that it will also come down to what version of the TDI you use as there are different flange patterns. The above manifold should work on the AHU, ALH and BEW Engines. There might be others, but research if you want to use a newer engine than those. I bought this manifold because I have an ALH waiting on a pallet.
  8. It really comes down to what you want to do with it. The Anti-sway bar is there to stop... swaying. With it installed the bar acts as a spring lever between the opposite ends of the suspension helping to keep it more level during a turn. The "downside" to this is that it does limit axle articulation, which if you are looking to do some real off road adventures can be a hinderance. If you mainly drive on the road and just do a rough dirt road from time to time then leaving it on is the best option. If it is going to be a trail rig, leave it off. The in between option is to leave it on a
  9. I wanted to jump back and offer a little insight on the turbocharger/clearance issue. Another possible solution would be to run the manifold from a 2004-2005 Passat 2.0L TDi, It was also offered overseas in a few other vehicles as well. I actually picked one up for about $80, and they aren't too hard to find, with the worst price I have seen was around $150. This manifold requires the use of a flange mount style turbocharger, of which the closest to a stock size would be a GTB1749V (VNT17) which is a small upgrade for ALH engines. They can be found with vacuum or eletronic actuators for fa
  10. Sort of Cafe', sort of not. I like the stripped down look of the Cafe' wings out there, but I wanted something a little different and less retro in styling. I ended up with a very unique bike in the Naked Goldwing world. Most guys do Cafe' or Tracker builds, and I went with a style I call retro street fighter. Stripped down and fenderless with modern lighting and suspension upgrades. That Corbin Touring seat really made the look work. I took an old fender and cut it off flush with the underside of the seat to protect it, painted it black, and mounted that billet license plate bracket to
  11. For a redneck fix, and because I had some laying around, I stopped my leak by using butyl sealing tape. I left it decently thick so it would squash and fill all of the voids, and then did my best to trim away some excess that squished out. Doesn't leak anymore, although I will admit that it might be a total pain in the rear to get it out again. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B07CQ54S8R?th=1
  12. I have been interested for years now but just haven't had a chance to get around to it, Hence why I bought the engine/ecu/wiring/etc. I already did read through your build thread yesterday. I try to soak up as much info as I can lol. I am going to likely leave the TDi swap for last. I want to get the axles and suspension sorted out first, then the bed, body, and some frame stiffening second. My tired old 4.0L still chugs along reliably, so I am in no huge hurry. I may pick your brain on some of the wiring stuff if you don't mind. Hey Pete! I would start a build thread for my bi
  13. Just went to my own little hole. I managed to get my foot in the door of the engineering department of our print and mail output service division, which since I was lacking a couple of skills required me to become a student again while also working full time. Down to one class, which is the one I was looking forward to the most - Solidworks. It's hard to have any sort of hobby while doing school and work, which is why I mainly played around with my new bike. Modifications for it were 1 day affairs or waiting on shipping. Exhaust and intake modifications, full ECU Flash from Guhl - 167whp
  14. I think I haven't signed into this forum in almost 2 years now? Been a crazy world for me, but I still have my 88 Pioneer. Just thought I would check back in because I have had a small fire lit under me again to do some work on my truck. Changed careers in my company right around the time I vanished, and have been spending my time working or playing with my bikes. This has been the focus of my attention all year this year after selling my goldwing. A 2010 Honda VFR1200F with a few upgrades. Anyway, to shorten up... I think the last time I was here my neighbor backed into the rear cor
  15. Most local shops don't tend to have a mendrel bender. A good shop can fab one with some pre-made mandrels and straight section. This is more cost because there is welding and mockup work they have to do. The other option is to simply buy some stainless exhaust tubing and having it crush bent. If all you are after is the longevity, then this is a much more affordable option. Some may already offer stainless at their business. Then it's just a matter of the grade of stainless. Affordable, but will not stay pretty is 409 stainless. Most OE's use this, but it does still corrode, and will e
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