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Megadan

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About Megadan

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    MJ Junkie

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    Omaha, NE

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  1. They do draw less current than a typical H4 bulb. Per Trucklite specs they draw 1.8 Amps at 12.8V, which is 23 Watts. high beam is 3.6 Amps at 12.8 Volts, or 46 watts. This is roughly half of a typical H4 bulb (55W/60W), so in theory you could get away without running a relay harness. The main reason many of us use the relay harness is to take the load of the headlights off of the headlight switch, which takes the full current of the lights, and changes it to a very low current circuit that triggers the relays that are powered off of battery sourced power.
  2. I agree 100%. It makes a huge difference in light output from the halogen lamps alone, along with saving that poor switch in the process.
  3. They offer a separate set of stiffeners that mount to the inside of the forward frame rails and the left hand unit also has built in spacers so the factory steering box spacer is eliminated. Not really a necessity, just a curiosity. I will probably never actually need stiffeners either, but I am predisposed to Victorian era overkill. - aka barn door simplicity I actually want to fully stitch weld the unibody once I get into tearing my truck apart, and it would be nice to fully integrate a set of stiffeners to it as well. I won't be crashing over boulders like some guys here, but I like knowing that my truck can survive whatever may come its way.
  4. If costing a bit more means I don't have to then modify the things to make them work properly then I am all for paying a bit more. You learn that lesson really quick when you get too old and tired to want to waste time doing something that should have been done right the first time. Are you planning on offering a steering box stiffening section as well?
  5. I might not be a good tester, but I am definitely interested. I was just eyeballing the full setup from T&M Fabrication as part of my MJ "revival." I have been nothing but pleased with the hitch you built for me, and I would love nothing more than to support you by purchasing a set of these for my LWB 88 Pioneer. Especially if the price is comparable. My question to you is, what thickness are you planning on going with?
  6. There are quite a few out there. The MJ/XJ use 5 x 7" headlights, so take your pick. Just be aware that you do get what you pay for. That $80 pair from amazon or ebay is cheaper than the headlight it is a knock off of for a reason. The ultimate tried and true would be a pair of Trucklite's 27450C, or the Rigid Industries equivalent, which is basically the same headlight. A pair of them will run around $350 from most retailers. I have personal experience with Trucklite headlights in both a car and a bike, and I can tell you they are worth the money. I tried some cheaper knock offs, and they were decent, but they either failed to throw light nearly as far, or didn't last very long. An alternative would be what I have done with my MJ, was to buy a set of H4 conversion headlights. I bought a set from Rampage Industries because they are a very thick and strong aluminum housing with a thick tempered glass lens (no plastic). You could also try and search for a set of E-code LHD H4 headlights, which look more factory and cost about the same as the Rampage ones I have. The Rampage lights currently run about $90 a pair. https://www.amazon.com/RAMPAGE-PRODUCTS-5089927-Universal-Conversion/dp/B001OMPJHM I ran a set of H4 bulbs with a relay harness for about 3 years and was extremely happy with them. Last year I recently installed a set of H4 LED headlights from Superbright LED's (thes: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-adjustable-color-temperature-and-compact-heat-sink-5000-lumensset/4442/9993/ ) into said housings and I couldn't be happier. No fans, the drivers are small, the heat sink sticking out the back of the light isn't too big so it actually fits between the back the light and the inner panel. I did have to maneuver my wiring harness a bit on the drivers side, but not a big deal. I also had to use my dremel and a sanding drum to ever so slightly open up the hole in the headlight bucket, again not a big deal. The lead for the small driver has a disconnect to make removing the light easier, if necessary. I have had zero issues with water. The light output is excellent, better than the H4 bulbs on a relay harness. I run them without the light "filters" so I have a pure white light output (5000k). Sure, you would still be spending almost $180 for my setup, but that is still about half of the Trucklite headlights, and if you want a more factory looking front end that won't attract thieves, it is hard to beat. I just want to reiterate that you do get what you pay for. Proper optics, proper soldering, waterproofing, thermal control, etc are all things that make the higher dollar lights worth the money. If you want to try and keep the costs down, then you could also do a little searching. Here are some Aluminum and glass headlights just like the Rampage lights for $65 https://headlightrevolution.com/vision-x-5x7-hi-lo-sealed-replacement-headlight-housing-h6054-5x7-7x6/ You could use whatever LED bulb suits your fancy, but I highly recommend SuperbrightLED or another company with a good reputation like Opt7. Their lights tend to be better in quality and have better optical positioning. Hope that helps!
  7. Glad I could offer a possible solution. Just keep in mind that it will also come down to what version of the TDI you use as there are different flange patterns. The above manifold should work on the AHU, ALH and BEW Engines. There might be others, but research if you want to use a newer engine than those. I bought this manifold because I have an ALH waiting on a pallet.
  8. It really comes down to what you want to do with it. The Anti-sway bar is there to stop... swaying. With it installed the bar acts as a spring lever between the opposite ends of the suspension helping to keep it more level during a turn. The "downside" to this is that it does limit axle articulation, which if you are looking to do some real off road adventures can be a hinderance. If you mainly drive on the road and just do a rough dirt road from time to time then leaving it on is the best option. If it is going to be a trail rig, leave it off. The in between option is to leave it on and then fit swaybar disconnects allowing you to unhook it from the axle and tie it up out of the way once you get to a trail. Then there is the option of simply leaving it off. Quite a few people I know drive their off road vehicles on the road with no sway bars. Easiest way to know what is the right choice for you would be to disconnect it from the end links and take it for a spin. See if you like how it feels.
  9. I wanted to jump back and offer a little insight on the turbocharger/clearance issue. Another possible solution would be to run the manifold from a 2004-2005 Passat 2.0L TDi, It was also offered overseas in a few other vehicles as well. I actually picked one up for about $80, and they aren't too hard to find, with the worst price I have seen was around $150. This manifold requires the use of a flange mount style turbocharger, of which the closest to a stock size would be a GTB1749V (VNT17) which is a small upgrade for ALH engines. They can be found with vacuum or eletronic actuators for fairly cheap and are good for up to 200hp and well past 300ft-lbs depending on tune/setup) with nice fast spool and torque peaking a bit past 2000rpm. This is the turbo I am going to go with as it is actually fairly cheap and well proven. Here is a picture from an ALH TDi build using a GTB1756VK Installed in the guy's Jetta. Notice that the turbo sticks out essentially parallel to the ground (perpendicular to the motor) which will ideally place it in the big vast chasm of room at the top of the engine bay. This should give plenty of room to clear the Jeep motor mounts and give a little more room to run a downpipe for the exhaust. Cost wise it can actually be cheaper than the ALH bolt on VNT17 turbo upgrade, which is usually around $800-900 I have found the GT1749V for $300-400, and toss in say $150 for the above mentioned manifold and at worse you might spend $600. If you are chasing more power then you could use the GTB1756VK like seen in the above pictures - His car made 201hp@4700rpm and 312lb-ft@2300rpm to the front wheels - but that turbo costs around 3 times as much. Anyway, just thought I would toss that info out there for other guys considering this swap. I still have a ways to go before I am ready for my TDi conversion- like rebuilding the motor I picked up . Gotta keep pace with what my wallet can provide after all. I don't have high aspirations for mine, just around 160-180 crank hp and as close to 300ft-lbs as I can get, which can be done fairly affordably on even the 10mm injection pump (what I have). That should move a Comanche along with ease, and definitely can't be any slower than my Renix, all while being 180lbs lighter and hopefully getting close to double the fuel economy. Now to get back on topic a bit. Johnj92131 - I was curious about that water outlet pipe you have. Was that made or did you find a source for it and bought it? It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate one, but I am lazy and wouldn't mind spending money if it was cheap enough lol.
  10. Sort of Cafe', sort of not. I like the stripped down look of the Cafe' wings out there, but I wanted something a little different and less retro in styling. I ended up with a very unique bike in the Naked Goldwing world. Most guys do Cafe' or Tracker builds, and I went with a style I call retro street fighter. Stripped down and fenderless with modern lighting and suspension upgrades. That Corbin Touring seat really made the look work. I took an old fender and cut it off flush with the underside of the seat to protect it, painted it black, and mounted that billet license plate bracket to it. HighTech Speed X-arc run/turn and run/brake/turn signals for the front and rear tight against the frame and tucked under the edge of the seat gave the lighting a really stealth look and then a Trucklite LED headlight. Upgraded Mosfet reg/rec, all of the wiring and connectors re-done and modernized to weatherproof Deutsch connectors and a big honkin lithium battery with 500cca (way overkill, but it fit the battery tray lol). Fully rebuilt and tuned carbs with that Delkevic full exhaust, she ran amazing and sounded even more so. Topped it off with Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Progressive front springs and Racetech gold valve emulators, it handled amazingly well too. That bike got a ton of attention and admiration everywhere it went and from all walks of life. I really regret selling it off, but I just didn't have the time to fix it, and the guy that bought it made me one hell of an offer for it, considering it was an otherwise dead motorcycle. I used the money from that sale to go toward my VFR, which in many ways is the spiritual successor to the GL1000 Goldwings. I always wanted a VFR1200, and it seemed like the logical next step. Since you like it so much... here are a couple more.I should have these pictures framed. My favorite rear shot. Those little .875" X-arcs are INSANELY bright. Those are the running lights, not the brake lights. This is a picture my Girlfriend took. She's a professional photographer, so she goes for the really dramatic Artsy stuff. I had her down to 568lbs with a full tank of fuel. Doesn't sound like much, but that is almost 40lbs less than factory. The exhaust and battery were the two biggest contributors. Honestly, about the only thing I didn't get around to doing that I wanted to do with that bike was lowering the headlight and gauges a couple of inches. I think that really would have completed the more sporty look I was going for. I may do another one in the future, as the 1000 Goldwings hold a special place in my heart. That will wait until I get some work finished on my Comanche though. It has been ignored and neglected for a long time, and I am tired of thinking about what I want and need to do.
  11. For a redneck fix, and because I had some laying around, I stopped my leak by using butyl sealing tape. I left it decently thick so it would squash and fill all of the voids, and then did my best to trim away some excess that squished out. Doesn't leak anymore, although I will admit that it might be a total pain in the rear to get it out again. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B07CQ54S8R?th=1
  12. I have been interested for years now but just haven't had a chance to get around to it, Hence why I bought the engine/ecu/wiring/etc. I already did read through your build thread yesterday. I try to soak up as much info as I can lol. I am going to likely leave the TDi swap for last. I want to get the axles and suspension sorted out first, then the bed, body, and some frame stiffening second. My tired old 4.0L still chugs along reliably, so I am in no huge hurry. I may pick your brain on some of the wiring stuff if you don't mind. Hey Pete! I would start a build thread for my bikes if there was much to share. The Goldwing lost it's rear oil pump after a brass rivet from the damping plate decided to go on an adventure. I ended up selling it off to another classic Goldwing lover and he fixed it up and is riding it now. My new bike is so new that there ain't much to build. Just basic upgrades and a fancy paint job. This picture probably shows it off a bit more. House of Kolor Sunset Copper Pearl with a fine metallic . This is the last picture of my Goldwing taken about a month before she died. I really miss this bike... and yes, I like Orange. All three of my girls together for the last time.
  13. Just went to my own little hole. I managed to get my foot in the door of the engineering department of our print and mail output service division, which since I was lacking a couple of skills required me to become a student again while also working full time. Down to one class, which is the one I was looking forward to the most - Solidworks. It's hard to have any sort of hobby while doing school and work, which is why I mainly played around with my new bike. Modifications for it were 1 day affairs or waiting on shipping. Exhaust and intake modifications, full ECU Flash from Guhl - 167whp (190ish -hp crank) (stock is 145 wheel 170 crank)) and I sent my forks and rear shock off to DMr in Indiana for a full retune - valves, springs, etc. She is a blast to ride, so with my little bits of free time I go set my hair on fire. I honestly can't wait to do some work to my Comanche. I have had dreams and visions of what I want for years now, but always had to set them aside. One of the biggest ones besides the TDi swap was doing a bed. To this point though I still can't quite decide what route I want to go. A True flatbed is super easy to build, but without stake sides it loses it's ability to haul loose items, so everything needs to be strapped down or put in a box. An idea I have been really considering is making my own version of an M105 or M101 trailer turned truck bed. Like this. Would be as simple to build as a flat bed, just with sides. The tailgate would be easy enough, as would the latches and hinges. I already have a basic design layed out for it with rough exterior measures. If I could get the bed mount spacing I could mostly build it off of the truck. Just ideas at this point obviously, but I would really love the look.
  14. I think I haven't signed into this forum in almost 2 years now? Been a crazy world for me, but I still have my 88 Pioneer. Just thought I would check back in because I have had a small fire lit under me again to do some work on my truck. Changed careers in my company right around the time I vanished, and have been spending my time working or playing with my bikes. This has been the focus of my attention all year this year after selling my goldwing. A 2010 Honda VFR1200F with a few upgrades. Anyway, to shorten up... I think the last time I was here my neighbor backed into the rear corner of my bed and broke the tail light and caved in the sheet metal a bit. Since then the small amount of rot in the fender wells has spread due to my neglect to the point that I will likely have to do some sheet metal repair, but instead of that I am considering building a flat bed with stake sides to make it easier for me to trasport my bikes and a buggy around on. We will see when I get there. At this point I am waiting to hear back from a guy selling a pair of axles from his XJ, A non-CAD Dana 30 with upgraded shafts and 4.56 gears along with a ford 8.8 with C-clip eliminators, and matching gears with upgraded shafts. Both axles have Detroit Tru-tracs in them as well, which should pair well with my NP242 I rebuilt that is sitting in my garage - making it a true "AWD" machine. If I can get my hands on them at the end of next month I will be able to put my 5" lift for the front and mount a pair of 33's. Then I can build the bed for it. I also picked up a VW ALH TDi engine with all the stuff needed for the conversion which is sitting in my storage unit. I got a great deal on it - $400, but the catch is that it has 380k miles and the guy that sold it to me said it will need at least an overhaul, and it is also missing the turbocharger. I had planned to upgrade that anyway if/when I get around to doing the swap, so for now it is going to collect dust. Can't afford too many projects at the same time... although I wish I could. Anyway, just wanted to say hi again, and hopefully in the next few months I will have a decent build thread to show some progress.
  15. Most local shops don't tend to have a mendrel bender. A good shop can fab one with some pre-made mandrels and straight section. This is more cost because there is welding and mockup work they have to do. The other option is to simply buy some stainless exhaust tubing and having it crush bent. If all you are after is the longevity, then this is a much more affordable option. Some may already offer stainless at their business. Then it's just a matter of the grade of stainless. Affordable, but will not stay pretty is 409 stainless. Most OE's use this, but it does still corrode, and will eventually look rusty if you live in the salt belt. The difference is it corrodes VERY slowly, so it will generally last the life of the vehicle. Then there is 300 series stainless, which doesn't generally surface corrode, and it polishes up really nicely, but is more expensive.
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