Rockfrog

Or an old disposable fire extinguisher ... They are 1/2" NPT threaded in general and easily converted. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I've seen a few 231 and 242 failures, all were either case failures (smashed on something), seized (due to no fluid) or a snapped output shaft, and these were beat repeatedly. My own case still has the stock chain, stock 3 pinion planetary but does have an SYE. For general use, a stock case is plenty up to the task, just protect the casting as aluminum cases are brittle when smashed on rocks. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

My 2000 XJ (fully loaded Classic) and my 1988 MJ (SporTruck) had the exact same canisters stock from the factory ... The smaller ball canister. Different part numbers but the same cannister. I parted an XJ that had the larger football, it was a fairly fully loaded Laredo. Pretty much any cannister will work, it's mainly just there to store vacuum so the controls will still function correctly at times of low vacuum (WOT, Engine shut down, etc...). I'd send you one of my spares, but shipping costs from up here are more than the part is worth. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I've got roughly 2" lift on my 88 and rolling on 255/75r17 which measure to 32" Disregard the unfinished (and never ending it seems) paint job. It'll get finished eventually. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, I can definitely say ... I like the bronze with this color. Finished the base except for the doors, need to swap those anyway. I'll paint them off the truck. Tried some patterns with the red flexi-dip ... I think I'll peel it all and make it more permanent ... I like it. I think she'll look good once in a clear. Oh, and I plan to bedline the box, and rear quarter to match the front/mid as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

While you're in there I would consider swapping to the later model water pump outlet (front red hose) it was a formed steel outlet, and eliminated some hose bends (aka chafe points). It may list as a 4.0L part but the 2.5 and 4.0 used the same waterpumps. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Yeah, the 2.5's were open, and used a coolant heated intake manifold. One hose goes from water pump to core. The other goes from thermo housing to intake manifold, then another hose goes from intake manifold to core. Bulk hose is best here. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

So the one coming from the thermostat housing to the valve goes directly to the core, best to run a new line there. Then you will need a second line from the back of the intake manifold, again directly to the core. The 2.5L used a heated intake as it was still a "wet intake" before it got MPFI in 92. It needed the extra engine heat to help keep fuel atomized. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The heater control valve was also used on the HO (open cooling system) vehicles as well. It wasn't just a Renix issue. How to tell if you have a Renix? Well, the TBI 2.5L's used a Renix control system. Heck, the ICM and coil on my buddies 1990 2.5l YJ looks identical to the one in my 88 4.0L MJ. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I actually stopped using them back in my YJ days ... Was a 92 YJ with the stock lighting system, so basicly the same as our MJ's. I'm not arguing your math, your point is totally valid ... just passing along my experiences. Hell most of my past needs to swap bulbs has been due to winter driving and the fist sized gravel used on our highways. Went through four bulbs on my XJ in one month, and a windshield as well. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I stopped using the higher wattage bulbs (55/65W silverstar ultras and Night runners and such) as I rarely saw over a years lifespan from them. I generally run the run of the mill halogen replacements these days, and can't remember the last time I replaced a bulb, current ones came with my truck when I bought it. And with the relay harness I rarely use hi-beam, usually only ever use it on logging roads. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

How so, we are not increasing output over what the headlight was designed for, it's not shining brighter by General vehicle standards ... It's just finally seeing the 12V it was originally supposed to, and what most other vehicle supply. We're not making it so a 35W bulb puts out 55W (by increasing voltage) we are making a 35W bulb that used to output 20W of light output, finally output closer to 35W, finally. And preventing fires in the process. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Check the condition/function of the "Latch Relay" ... It's function is to supply power to reset the IAC on shutdown. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Little more time added ... Used flexi-dip for the stripe ... That way I can peel it off when I decide I don't like it. Not sure what I want to do with the two white striped areas now, thinking it would be too much red really. Thinking I'll paint them the same background green. As for the wheels, I'm thinking Bronze ... Just seems to go with the green. Anyone good at photoshop? Re-torqued the suspension again, 80 at the shackle/frame and 70ft-lbs at the spring, front is 100ft-lbs. Hammered the u-bolts tight again, doesn't looks to be too far off now, maybe a good 1/2" or so now. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Managed to get some of the hood shot during a lull in the weather. Need to reshoot some of the green again, was too soft and the tape lifted some spots since it was on too long for the heat... Did a modification to my original plan on the fly and decided on a multistripe pattern. Thinking of doing two contrasting color stripes U'd on the front header and run back to the windshield (so I have to pull and paint the cowl again). Almost thinking red, and then paint the tow hooks to match. Or maybe orange/umber. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Got a little more clean breaks and shot a bit more paint. Thinking to hit the hood with some stripes, going to pull the header to paint it. Then time to clear the rest of it. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

And .... Got another partial day to hit the MJ with something akin to paint. Weather started spitting on me yet again. Started out great in the AM, but by the time I was all masked and prepped again ... Things started heading south yet again. Still have the header, cowl, and the hood, 1/2 the roof needs a second coat again (wind picked up halfway though the roof). Tossed some rocker guard on the lower body line. Starting to look good. New to me MTR's are on the front. Need to decide on a color for the wheels next and pull the front bumper for a coat of rocker guard. I'm going to be swapping the doors soon so they haven't had anything done. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, chopped the exhaust off just behind the Crossmember. Added a thrush glass pack and a turndown off that with a hanger added off the rear cab corner brace. Actually doesn't sound too bad. I'll readdress it at a later date (want to tuck it up tight and maybe add something with a less aggressive sound) but this fits my need 's for now and let's me move on to other parts of the truck. Had the worn out BFG JK takeoffs on the front swapped for a pair of 70% Wrangler MTR's I scored yesterday. Now I just need to find a cheap 17" wheel with a 5 on 4.5" or close bolt pattern so I can have a spare again. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Meh, just going for simple this go around. Chop it at the good stuff, glass pack and a turndown just behind the cab. Then I'll deal with it properly later. I still have to finish painting the old beast yet. Sometimes shift work has it's drawbacks. Although it was kinda funny how I could just bent the tailpipe out of the way to torque the shackle bolts, then bend it right back afterwards. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

34T speedo gear makes it all read near perfect, probably about 2% fast maybe, better than stock at least. Now to tackle the rattling rotten exhaust. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well think I got it locked, seems to be settling in towards center. Hammered the u-bolts tight (to the point they splayed (1/2" ubolts). And torqued it all down to 90ftlbs. Going to loosen the lower (spring to shackle) bolt to 70 later today. But the upside is the new spring pack gives me the load rate I wanted and the new axle is also up to the task. The old 2wd springs were definitely plush, Cadillac plush. Probably going to pull the overload from the 2wd pack, swap in for the one on the new packs, and ditch the load assist shocks for just some plain old shocks. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Mine was inside the passenger side door on my 88 Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

The perches are centered to the backing plates, first thing I checked. Wish it was going to be this easy. At this point I'm out of ideas. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Well, now I'm stumped, swapped the springs and shackles out. Made new leaf packs out of ... Comanche 4wd main, unknown long leaf I pulled out a an XJ bastard pack, Dakota main cut down Comanche 4wd remainders. Measured everything again, and again, and the axle measures like it should, perches 42" on center, evenly spaced between the backing plates. Yet when it's back down the suspension is shifting to the drivers side nearly and inch. I originally thought the spring or the GM lowering shackle was twisted (albeit the stock 2wd springs do look like they have some side bowing). But now, dunno, guess I'm just going to have to live with it at this point. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Transmission breather hose, the breather bracket mounts to the bellhousing. Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk